Jump to content

2017 Gas 2500 Changes


Recommended Posts

From manual:


If equipped, this feature is available only with cruise control. The manual fast idle switch is operated using the cruise control buttons on the left side of the steering wheel.

This system can be used to increase engine idle speed whenever the following conditions are met:

. The parking brake is set.

. The brake pedal is not pressed.

. The vehicle must not be moving

and the accelerator must not be pressed



To control the fast idle:

. To enable the Fast Idle System, press and release the cruise control on/off button and ensure that the switch indicator light is lit.

. Press and release the cruise control SET- button.

Engine speed will be held at approximately 1200 rpm.

One of the following actions will turn off the fast idle:

. Pressing the brake.

. Selecting the cruise control cancel button.

. Releasing the parking brake.

. Moving the transmission shift lever out of P (Park) or N (Neutral).

. Selecting the cruise control on/ off button when it was previously on.

. Pressing the cruise control SETbutton a second time.

. Pressing the accelerator more than one-quarter of the way down.

. Turning the ignition switch to the LOCK/OFF position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 270
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eh. Fords never leave anything in the dust. They just break down and rot away in the dust.

 

 

I love watching when folks get on a loyalty kick. They should once in a while and that is good, though a little melodramatic sometimes. And one would have to explain how my 1979 Ford Bronco (full size) which was based totally on the F150 not only survived 10 years of the interior of Alaska in the 80's, but did it quite well. While GM's new little front axle CV boots were cracking in below -50F conditions, the Bronco solid front axle just kept on going. And that 351M engine and 4 speed manual were really solid performers. The only problem the vehicle had was the interior heater quit once at -55F. Let it sit in a heated shop for the day and it worked just fine after that. No other problems.

 

Each brand has its own little quirks and weaknesses. And each has its own positives. Just depends on what you need, where you need it, etc. In 45 years of vehicle ownership, I have yet to find the "perfect" vehicle that so good it puts everything else to shame. Yep, not even my current 2015 2500. Great pickup, but not perfect. Still miss not having a solid front axle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it the bad ride, braking death wobble, or constantly replacing track bars you miss? [emoji38]

 

I understand why people like an SFA but without a one piece tie rod and u-joint upgrades they leave a lot to be desired.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it the bad ride, braking death wobble, or constantly replacing track bars you miss? [emoji38]

 

I understand why people like an SFA but without a one piece tie rod and u-joint upgrades they leave a lot to be desired.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

First, those issues only arose in later years with coil springs and the sloppy ball joints of the AAM. Because they insist on making trucks ride like cars...

 

I drove loads and loads of leaf sprung SFAs that never had issues, tracked straight, tough as nails, with SERVICEABLE bearings. I'm not talking the junk produced in the 90s, I'm talking the stuff of the 70s and 80s...the ball joint D44F and kingpin D60F are about the most reliable front axles ever built. Not to mention the lockout hubs...gas mileage, with non-lockout front diffs, really?

 

The only reason SFA is going slowly away is because of the people that expect a truck to ride like a car and the people that are too troubled to get out and lock hubs in...I'd much rather have the truck ride that is trouble-free. As far as mileage, my last Dodge had Dynatrac hubs installed...with 4.10s, a cast iron 6spd, and tweaked "600" Cummins; there were guys with the better non-600, 3.73s, and autos hard pressed to match my overall mileage.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never had those problems. Did bust a leaf on a '72 Chevy pickup SFA one time though. Strapped a chain around the axle and fastened to frame and drove it home and put on a new leaf spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

I love watching when folks get on a loyalty kick. They should once in a while and that is good, though a little melodramatic sometimes. And one would have to explain how my 1979 Ford Bronco (full size) which was based totally on the F150 not only survived 10 years of the interior of Alaska in the 80's, but did it quite well. While GM's new little front axle CV boots were cracking in below -50F conditions, the Bronco solid front axle just kept on going. And that 351M engine and 4 speed manual were really solid performers. The only problem the vehicle had was the interior heater quit once at -55F. Let it sit in a heated shop for the day and it worked just fine after that. No other problems.

 

Each brand has its own little quirks and weaknesses. And each has its own positives. Just depends on what you need, where you need it, etc. In 45 years of vehicle ownership, I have yet to find the "perfect" vehicle that so good it puts everything else to shame. Yep, not even my current 2015 2500. Great pickup, but not perfect. Still miss not having a solid front axle.

 

 

 

Ford is bringing back the Bronco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My experiences are with 2nd Gen Rams and up, primarily. We had a 97 Ford that would always try to throw tie rods as well.

 

Sure, a kingpin setup with CVs and a one piece with high steer and long radius will work great and be tough, but that isn't how they come. With trying to keep weight close to the ground and still function as a work truck, high steer isn't really an option either.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My experiences are with 2nd Gen Rams and up, primarily. We had a 97 Ford that would always try to throw tie rods as well.

 

Sure, a kingpin setup with CVs and a one piece with high steer and long radius will work great and be tough, but that isn't how they come. With trying to keep weight close to the ground and still function as a work truck, high steer isn't really an option either.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Why would a kingpin D60F need CV joints? 1.5 inch shafts and huge knuckle joints will long outlast any CV for nothing else that you can grease them.

 

Again, before they started turning working trucks into cars...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First, those issues only arose in later years with coil springs and the sloppy ball joints of the AAM. Because they insist on making trucks ride like cars...

 

I drove loads and loads of leaf sprung SFAs that never had issues, tracked straight, tough as nails, with SERVICEABLE bearings. I'm not talking the junk produced in the 90s, I'm talking the stuff of the 70s and 80s...the ball joint D44F and kingpin D60F are about the most reliable front axles ever built. Not to mention the lockout hubs...gas mileage, with non-lockout front diffs, really?

 

The only reason SFA is going slowly away is because of the people that expect a truck to ride like a car and the people that are too troubled to get out and lock hubs in...I'd much rather have the truck ride that is trouble-free. As far as mileage, my last Dodge had Dynatrac hubs installed...with 4.10s, a cast iron 6spd, and tweaked "600" Cummins; there were guys with the better non-600, 3.73s, and autos hard pressed to match my overall mileage.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

My 1st truck was a '82 K15 shortbox. The rest have been IFS trucks. I always wished the money spent on the dismal QS4 option had been spent on a SFA instead.

 

In '05 I was in northern Alberta & British Columbia on holiday winding up in the Yukon & Alaska. My "unscientific" research found that most of the "personal use" pick ups were Chevs & GMCs (3/4 tons) while the vast majority of "work" pickups in the forestry & oil/gas industries were Fords & Dodges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.