Jump to content

Selling original tires

Colliewood

Recommended Posts

Colliewood Enthusiast

Colliewood

Posted
Posted

Just curious what you guys do with your factory tires when you replace them when they are barely used. Going to replace the SR/A soon so wondering how to unload them.

 

There are used tire dealers but guessing they offer little, if anything for them. With Craigslist it seems hit/miss, probably takes a lot of time to move them if at all.

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
dbcooper748 Enthusiast

dbcooper748

Posted
Posted

Just curious what you guys do with your factory tires when you replace them when they are barely used. Going to replace the SR/A soon so wondering how to unload them.

There are used tire dealers but guessing they offer little, if anything for them. With Craigslist it seems hit/miss, probably takes a lot of time to move them if at all.

I made 4 tire swings out of mine! Thats about all theyre good for! Lol!

 

Jk, i sold my oem tires and rims for a grand on craigslist

Tek74 Enthusiast

Tek74

Posted
Posted

I'm sure happy there is so much SRA hate out there...!!!

 

They work fine for me in the rain and snow, so when mine wear out, I should be able to scoop up a like-new set like yours from someone for cheap. They are by no means a high end tire (like Michelins), but they are not the worst tires in the world that people make them out to be either. Just an average mid-grade tire. Tires do matter when driving in adverse conditions, but skill is also a huge factor.

Colliewood Enthusiast

Colliewood

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is definitely a supply of SRAs on Craigslist in my area - my wife's Jeep came with them and just replace them. My thought is to put them on criagslist for a couple of months and if no bites, unload them at a used tire dealer.

 

I'm thinking of putting on Bilsteins to level my truck, and go up a little in tire size. The ones being replace will only have 2-3000 miles on them.

GMCguy78 Enthusiast

GMCguy78

Posted
Posted

Lots and lots of burn outs, hate those SR-A's

 

Sent from my Note 5 using Tapatalk

SMiller Senior Enthusiast

SMiller

Posted
Posted

I'm sure happy there is so much SRA hate out there...!!!

 

They work fine for me in the rain and snow, so when mine wear out, I should be able to scoop up a like-new set like yours from someone for cheap. They are by no means a high end tire (like Michelins), but they are not the worst tires in the world that people make them out to be either. Just an average mid-grade tire. Tires do matter when driving in adverse conditions, but skill is also a huge factor.

 

Send your address and shipping labels...

 

 

We all hate those junk ass tires!

 

 

I trade mine in the day after getting a new truck, I use Discount tire.

crewl1 Enthusiast

crewl1

Posted
Posted

I haven't had any issues with the SRA's yet but they only have a few miles on them and the weather and roads here are pretty tame.

 

I do think the sidewalls are a bit stiff which makes the ride feel jarring yet soft at the same time, sorta hard to describe it.

 

I liked the Hankooks I had on my previous truck so will probably switch to that brand when the time comes.

 

(Unless a cheap set of SRA takeoffs is on Craigslist when I am in the market.) :)

Brian S. Enthusiast

Brian S.

Posted
Posted

I'm sure happy there is so much SRA hate out there...!!!

 

They work fine for me in the rain and snow, so when mine wear out, I should be able to scoop up a like-new set like yours from someone for cheap. They are by no means a high end tire (like Michelins), but they are not the worst tires in the world that people make them out to be either. Just an average mid-grade tire. Tires do matter when driving in adverse conditions, but skill is also a huge factor.

Yep. I use the SRAs, even off road and driving on frozen lakes. I leave it in Auto when there is snow on the road, or when off road.

Tek74 Enthusiast

Tek74

Posted
Posted

I definitely believe you. They don't do anything great, but they are not the horrible tires that many claim they are. They are just an average tire that GM went with to cut cost.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mysery1
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By mysery1 · Posted

      I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...