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pgamboa

How-To: A10 Inside RearView Auto Dimming Mirror Conversion (DD8)

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Hello,

I wanted to share my A10 - Inside RearView Mirror conversion from UE8 (OnStar Only) to OnStar and Auto Dimming (UE8 & DD8). I have read a few threads out there from those that have attempted this by tapping into nearby power circuits. I didn't want to go this route and wanted this to be a Factory as possible. Also, since I completed the Side Mirrors Conversion (DL8 to DL3), I also wanted have the Auto Dimming feature working on the Driver's Side Mirror as well. After completing the conversion, I can confirm that I now have FULL functionality with Auto Dim on the Rear View Mirror AND my Driver's Side Mirror

This setup is for my:

2016 Silverado, Crew Cab, LT, 5.3L Gas.

Your mileage might vary. Please confirm wiring for you vehicle!


NOTE: Having the Driver's Side Auto Dim function to work, you MUST have the circuits in the Driver's Door Panel harness. Since I converted by harness from DL8 to DL3, I had the circuits already there.

I created a PDF of all my notes and research to ensure I was doing this right and like it would have come from the factory. Please see "A10 Mirror Connector Reference". I hope this helps those that also want to this. I used pre-terminated terminal leads that I bought from eBay. Those part #s are also in the Reference Diagram.

There are a total of (4) Circuits Needed that were missing in the A10 - (UE8) Mirror Connector. To get the DD8 Option you'll need the following circuits (please note, these are also listed in detail in the "A10 Mirror Connector Reference). I advise to print it out to have for easy reference and understanding.

Circuit 24 - Backup Lamp Control (Light Green/Red Stripe)
Circuit 1690 - Automatic Day/Night Mirror Signal (Yellow/White Stripe)
Circuit 1691 - Automatic Day/Night Mirror Low Reference (Black/Yellow Stripe)
Circuit 1739 - Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage (Violet/Light Green Stripe)

 

UPDATE: When i did this upgrade back in September 2016, the instructions in the cross reference sheet I provided include sourcing the Pre-Terminated Leads from GM. Since then, I have found the actual terminal pins so that you can crimp then yourself. They are cheaper in price but will require a crimp tool.

 

Pre-Terminated Leads:

A10 Mirror: 13575867 - These sell for about $6 each. You'll need (4) = $24

X51L/X61A Panels - 19301767 - These sell for about $14 each. You'll need (4) = $56

 

Total Cost = $80 for Pre-Terminated Leads + Shipping

 

Terminal Pins from Mouser:

A10 Mirror: SAIT-A03T-M064 - $0.07/each - You'll need (4) = $0.28

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/13849930-L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKnVYD9xPrV6CnMqjFL3PycU%3D

 

X51L/X61A Panels: 13849929-L - $0.18/each - You'll need (4) = $0.72

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JST/SAIT-A03T-M064/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhkh82d7cDA4KZPGw2IAWOBN4IAbsI5FZ%2FIEBdeeFjRSg%3D%3D

 

Engineering Inc. PA-20 Crimp Tool - $35 on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487961421&sr=sr-1&keywords=pa-20

 

Total Cost - $36.00 for the Terminal Pins and a Crimp Tool + Shipping

 

So, you will still save $40 getting the pins, crimp tool, and crimping them yourself. Since the pins are very cheap, I would pickup a few extras for crimping practice.

 


Step 1: I took a High Quality - 25' HDMI Cable and stripped wires away from it. I wanted to get the wires to be as close as to the GM color code scheme as possible. These wires were 22AWG.

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Step 2: I grabbed the four wires closest to the color code scheme and wrapped them with automotive harness tape.

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Step 3: I removed the Overhead Console and began running wires along the headliner (inserting from the front edge gap and working my way to the A-Pillar of the driver's side. At this point, I removed the fuse panel cover on the driver's side door to expose the X51L Fuse Block Instrument Panel. The purple wire will land on Pin #13 of the X3 Connector (this is on the right side of the Fuse Panel).

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Step 4: I separated my harness so that my purple wire (Circuit 1739) landed inside the X51L Fuse Block Instrument Panel with the other 3 wires (Black, Green, Yellow) continuing down the side into the footwell area.

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Step 5: Since I have the Kicker VSS System, I had to remove the amp as it sits on top of the X61A Junction Block. Remove the top cover to expose the connectors. The connector you'll want to remove and look at is the X3 Blue Connector (top left corner). This is where the 3 circuits will land. Pins #8, #9, and #13 is what you want. It was a real PAIN to insert since there was not enough slack in the harness, so be prepared for awkward contortion. :) NOTE: I did completely pull the fuse block out and verify pins on both sides of the fuse block. That is also noted in the reference diagram. Inserted leads, wrapped excess wires with automotive harness tape, zip tied to existing harnesses, connecting everything back.

Step 6: In the overhead console side, I landed the terminal leads into Pins #1, #2, #8, and #9 (Also referenced in the diagram).

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Put everything back together, took a test drive at night... ALL IS WORKING!

Hope this helps, let me know if you need any help with this.

Here is the PDF I created for the complete wiring diagram and photos.

A10 Mirror Connector Reference Here! ENJOY!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e8hnnt7nvdsv1wa/A10%20Mirror%20Connector%20Reference.pdf?dl=0

Edited by pgamboa
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Should create a How-To section and add this thread as a sticky.

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Thanks Guys! Spent lots of time reading the Upfitter Manual to ensure I've covered all the circuits needed across all connectors to make this work. Gotta love that feeling when you put everything back and it works! I hope I can continue to contribute on mods like this.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Updated Reference Diagram to include Terminal Leads for both ends of the connection points. Also, total cost for this upgrade was $136.45. $94.45 for the terminal leads and $42.00 for the mirror. Enjoy!

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Wow what a great forum. First let me thank you and everyone who has help on this topic. I don't think I would have done such a professional job without it. A special thanks to you pgamboa for all your hard work and time. My question is: Do you know the terminal end piece number . Is it 12020757 for the X51L/X61A boxes. I don't want the leads, just the terminal. Thanks

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I bought this one on ebay. Said it wasn't compatible but it works it was from a lacrosse I think there is one on ebay now

E11026538

 

Also this # looks good GM 13584893 check it out I can not confirm this one the other one (E11026538) I know works

Edited by carnut325

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I must say thanks to Phil for all the good help he is to all of us on this forum!! I just did this mod last night and let me tell you guys it works like a charm!!! all the instructions and diagrams that pgamboa provided are dead on!! Thanks Phil!!!

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Thanks a awesome post getting my supplies together com on GM what in the hell is 4 extra wires in a harness fit what should be a STANDARD feature.. How many years was the pickup trucks pre wired for this

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Thanks a awesome post getting my supplies together com on GM what in the hell is 4 extra wires in a harness fit what should be a STANDARD feature.. How many years was the pickup trucks pre wired for this

No kidding. Let me know if you have any questions. I hope you have patience with the X61A - Junction Box. :). It was a PITA to land the terminals in the connectors. Releasing any zip ties and getting as much slack out might help.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I got the terminals part #13849930 these are for the junction box terminals I hope because the way I read the post these were for the mirror plug side these terminals are too big for the mirror side plug the others are in back order hopefully they fit the mirror plug I ordered from mouser

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Beautiful write-up, thanks pgamboa!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Just picked up a mirror from eBay for $60 CAD with free shipping. Will be doing this to the truck on days off now. Your the man!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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