Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It is suppose to be better.

From what I can tell where the cooling fins meet the dryer on the right there is not any difference. Just the addition of tape.

Maybe the welds are beefier.

However,  some aftermarket condensers are welded up the entire joint or have more attachment points.

Posted
17 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

Good point.

2015 and up Tahoe, Yukon & Suburban all have the same condenser as K2 trucks I believe.

Probably Escalade as well.

yeah their forums all have similar threads  like this one =)

 

I'd just go after market as long as it's a good brand and not worry about it. I put a denso in the van (75 bucks!) works great. Even if you didn't have this issue by 100k or so you could have

gotten a rock into the coils and developed a leak there they're kinda out front and tend to have that happen but still yeah this is mass defect. Just make sure if you or someone else besides the dealer does it,

no stop leak or any of that mess in the freon...even once.

Posted
22 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

Most of the aftermarket condensers still seem to be made better than the "updated" GM version and at half the cost.

You can still do this yourself as others have suggested for probably less than $200 all in.

$400 with GM assistance is still double the true cost if you ask me. But, the Techs have to get paid I guess.

I agree!  Normally I'd be all over this project and DIY it.  The pickle for me however, 2 and 4yr old girls are daily passengers not to mention finding the time to work on it.  

  • Like 1
Posted
On 5/8/2019 at 9:46 AM, Sierra Dan said:

The "Goodwill" program or policy is a blessing in disguise.

I do not know the whole story behind it but Goodwill saved me $3500 back in 2008.

I had an 05 Avalanche and my 4L60E transmission failed at 42K miles, beyond my standard 3/36 warranty and I had no extension.

When the service advisor called me and said that he had good news and bad news on my transmission I asked what is the bad news?

He said you are out an 02 sensor. I said what is the good news.

He said your getting a new transmission courtesy of GM via the Goodwill program and it would cost nothing.

So it is good to hear that in certain situations the Goodwill program is still given out today.

I have asked for “Good Will” compensation a few times over the years.  It’s a negotiated amount, sometimes offered at the dealer level and sometimes at the corporate level.  I’ve had the best results when I’ve used a reasoned approach.  Basically, you’re saying to the dealer or corporate rep “our relationship is worth preserving if you’ll work with me”.  In turn, they are making the same assessment about you.  So, if you go in guns blazing with kick-ass attitude your chances of generating any “Good Will” relief is about zero.  No need to suck up, just be reasonable and mind your manners.  Mama said ?.... 

Posted
25 minutes ago, Snoringbear said:

I have asked for “Good Will” compensation a few times over the years.  It’s a negotiated amount, sometimes offered at the dealer level and sometimes at the corporate level.  I’ve had the best results when I’ve used a reasoned approach.  Basically, you’re saying to the dealer or corporate rep “our relationship is worth preserving if you’ll work with me”.  In turn, they are making the same assessment about you.  So, if you go in guns blazing with kick-ass attitude your chances of generating any “Good Will” relief is about zero.  No need to suck up, just be reasonable and mind your manners.  Mama said ?.... 

The amazing aspect of my Goodwill experience back in '08 was that it did not cost me a dime to replace the 4L60E in my avalanche.

Perhaps some of the Goodwill discretion comes as how much of a loyal GM owner you are?

My Dad retired from GM after nearly 35 years and by '08 I had owned 4 GM trucks dating back to '94.

So in my case that could have had a bearing on the outcome. I doubt this happens in todays world where one receives a major repair free.

Posted
36 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

The amazing aspect of my Goodwill experience back in '08 was that it did not cost me a dime to replace the 4L60E in my avalanche.

Perhaps some of the Goodwill discretion comes as how much of a loyal GM owner you are?

My Dad retired from GM after nearly 35 years and by '08 I had owned 4 GM trucks dating back to '94.

So in my case that could have had a bearing on the outcome. I doubt this happens in todays world where one receives a major repair free.

I have a BA in Economics, accounting thru Cost (GI Bill plus night shift at a truck stop);   anyway, Good Will is a line-item expense that’s forecasted and budgeted on many P&L’s.  So, obviously use of Good Will money is reserved for issues that have a high probability outcome  such as with you and your family.  That’s why I made an earlier post about relationship management.  I’ve managed accounts both as a supplier and a customer and have found that there’s usually a positive result, either way, to leave the other party with their dignity.  Just my two bits lol ? ....

  • Like 1
Posted

Well stated Bear! 

 

My personal opinion on warranty work or non-warranty defective parts for that matter: 

 

If Mary Barra can be paid 21.96 million dollars a year by GM, then GM can and should give out a few thousand

free $100 A/C Condensers and Vacuum Pumps knowing they are sub-par components to begin with!

Then both parties can be left with dignity :thumbs:

 

Posted
26 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

Well stated Bear! 

 

My personal opinion on warranty work or non-warranty defective parts for that matter: 

 

If Mary Barra can be paid 21.96 million dollars a year by GM, then GM can and should give out a few thousand

free $100 A/C Condensers and Vacuum Pumps knowing they are sub-par components to begin with!

Then both parties can be left with dignity :thumbs:

 

Thanks.  Personally, I think the condenser failure problem occurred frequently enough to justify a recall or extend the warranty on it out to perhaps 7 yrs/100k miles.  Fortunately for me my condenser failed around the two year 28,000 mile marker.  So, got a new one plus loaner use.  Because this is/was a specific easily identifiable problem (vs mysterious Chevy Shake) I would have liked for GM to take the same approach that Hyundai took with their Sonata engines that had crank shaft machining problems, apparently shavings were left when Oiler holes were drilled.  Anyway, my daughter has a Sonata with this problem and got a new (not a rebuilt) engine top and bottom with extended warranty out to 12 years/120k.  

 

Just a side-note my condenser went out while towing my 6,000 lb TT down to Big Bend.  Also blew out my TT AC unit.  But hey, it was only 117 degrees.  But, my wife, having her A game on booked us at Lajitas Resort and Spa.  Kinda toasty driving back to DFW though ?...

Posted

So someone give me a run down on recharging the system. Maybe it has already been explained in thorough but I must have missed it on one of these threads.

And there only seem to be YouTube vids of the Condenser replacement only and not the vacuum/recharge procedure.

 

Once the new condenser is in and everything buttoned back up do you hook up and pull vaccum 1st or do you have to add PAG oil into the system then pull vacuum then recharge?

I know the big box auto parts stores have PAG oil. Is 46 sufficient? 

Vacuum, add in about 2-3 ounces PAG 46 oil with compressor running then top off with Freon?

This analytical mind wants to know! :thumbs:

Posted
7 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

So someone give me a run down on recharging the system. Maybe it has already been explained in thorough but I must have missed it on one of these threads.

And there only seem to be YouTube vids of the Condenser replacement only and not the vacuum/recharge procedure.

 

Once the new condenser is in and everything buttoned back up do you hook up and pull vaccum 1st or do you have to add PAG oil into the system then pull vacuum then recharge?

I know the big box auto parts stores have PAG oil. Is 46 sufficient? 

Vacuum, add in about 2-3 ounces PAG 46 oil with compressor running then top off with Freon?

This analytical mind wants to know! :thumbs:

 

you will add a few ounces of pag oil into the new condenser line openings (1-2), install condenser (new o-rings preferably) pull vac, sit , recharge. Chrisfix on youtube has a pretty good popular  tutorial. for pag i'm not sure what gm specifies but for our honda i used double end capped https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HPWBGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Stick with what i mentioned in my other post avoid the new self sealing freon cans as that adaptor just confuses the crap out of you.  amazon has some dupont r134 that went really easy. 

 

 

Posted
On 5/10/2019 at 10:56 PM, reelbusy said:

 

you will add a few ounces of pag oil into the new condenser line openings (1-2), install condenser (new o-rings preferably) pull vac, sit , recharge. Chrisfix on youtube has a pretty good popular  tutorial. for pag i'm not sure what gm specifies but for our honda i used double end capped https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HPWBGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Stick with what i mentioned in my other post avoid the new self sealing freon cans as that adaptor just confuses the crap out of you.  amazon has some dupont r134 that went really easy. 

 

 

Sounds good. Thanks for the input  :thumbs:

Posted

Well sure enough went to turn the a/c on this last saturday and after 5-10 minutes of driving i had nothing but outside air temps through the vents. Looks like that extended warranty i purchased is about to pay for itself. Not sure what the issue is but i'm sure it's either the condenser or the compressor, in either case gm will be picking up the tab or they better as i believe should be covered under a gmpp.

Posted (edited)
On 5/13/2019 at 4:04 PM, BIGDOGx said:

Well sure enough went to turn the a/c on this last saturday and after 5-10 minutes of driving i had nothing but outside air temps through the vents. Looks like that extended warranty i purchased is about to pay for itself. Not sure what the issue is but i'm sure it's either the condenser or the compressor, in either case gm will be picking up the tab or they better as i believe should be covered under a gmpp.

Turns out i have a faulty evap core, service writer said my truck has two of them ?? Claimed the one in the back went bad, thinking he might be mistaken for maybe a suv, do the 14's have 2 evap cores? In any case for those on the fence with a newer or about to get new truck this little problem just made the money i spent on a extended gmpp pay off, one repair, i still have nearly 3 years left on it.

Edited by BIGDOGx
Posted
4 hours ago, BIGDOGx said:

Turns out i have a faulty evap core, service writer said my truck has two of them ?? Claimed the one in the back went bad, thinking he might be mistaken for maybe a suv, do the 14's have 2 evap cores? In any case for those on the fence with a newer or about to get new truck this little problem just made the money i spent on a extended gmpp pay off, one repair, i still have nearly 3 years left on it.

1 Evaporator.....  #7 in diagram below

 

 

Untitled-1.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...