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Posted
23 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Fully functional, but you have to modify the boards to physically fit. 9019633be40e473d96365a26e8802a31.jpg


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Excellent, thank you sir!  Looks like I will be purchasing another harness from you in the near future

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I've been reading this over and over and w/ all of the replies and videos - I went out and purchased a set for my 2014 GMC Sierra (Extended Cab, thinking it would be an easy fit). Everything lines up (w/ a few small cuts), but the wiring in my harness is missing a few of the connections (Power [C2], # 8 & 39). I pulled power from the battery,  but when I went to find # 8 & 39, they were both missing as well. I can do the rest of the wiring to the boards, but where do these need to go to ? 

 

Thanks for your help !! 

 

I think I'm going to be reaching out to Phil .... 

 

Edited by Doug Cleary
adding to the comment
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I'm selling the articulating boards I bought a few months ago. They are off a 2019 LTZ.  I bought a set of Amp Research boards this week.   

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hi all, I am bringing this back up.  I am a relatively new member on here but had been following the site for a while.  I am a long time GM guy so this is a great site.  

I just purchased a 2017 Sierra Denali.  It had steps but I quickly realized they had been retrofitted.  When I got it it did not have the inside switch, following this post I traced the wiring back and determined somebody (probably from here) had followed these steps and had the power wire plus the other two correctly in place at the front.  The steps came out when the door opened and retracted when closed but they would not go back the the rear setting.  I purchased the inside switch hoping that would solve my issue.  With the switch I can push it down and extend, push again and they will go all the way back.  I can hold it down to turn it off and on but still not "kick" button tri mode on either side.  I have tried turning them on and off and cycling them to no avail.

I believe I have confirmed the button is hooked up but sure cant get it to work.  Any ideas?

Thanks

Dave

Edited by Custom 68
Posted

So are you saying that if you kick the switch on the back of the running board, it does NOT make the boards go fully back for access to the bed? If that is the case, I would suspect that the kick switch is either faulty or not hooked up properly to the running board controller module. I assume the passenger side also does not work? The Running Board controller module handles all these functions, there is nothing inside the truck that will affect this. The truck interior communicates with the running board module via the data bus. The module gets info like the door is open or closed from the data bus. The disable signal is separate from the data bus and is a discrete wire run to the module (if I recall, its been a few years). So again, if you can get a wiring diagram of the running boards it will help you determine the problem. But the kick switches go to the module directly. 

 

I don't have a wiring diagram, but do see the pin-outs for the module from the Up-Fitters site manual for the the 2016 model. Maybe the 2017 or later manual might have actual wiring diagrams. 

Anyway, on the 12-pin connector on the module (the other connector on the module is for power and motor control), the left kick switch is pin 11, the right kick switch is pin 12. I suspect when you kick the switch, it will provide continuity to ground (basically short the wire to ground). These are all weather-pak connectors so you will have a hard time probing them with all the weatherproofing on them. But you could unplug the connector and hook up meter leads from a Digital Multi-meter to pin 11 and pin 7 and kick the switch and see if your meter beeps (set in continuity mode) when you press in the kick switch in the left side and hold it in. When you release the kick switch the beeping should stop. Move one lead over to pin 12 (keep the other lead on pin 7) and do the same for the right side. If you get no beeps, then the wiring up to the module is bad and you have to trace back to see where it is broken. 

 

image.png.2a2808645a17e888343f4d83f044fdb5.png

 

Now, each running board has a connector that connects to the module and it is an 8-pin connector:

 

image.png.3b0ac33b1fb7f1d8a51ac803e2786e77.png

Pin 7 and 8 are for the kick switch. Unplug this connector and do the same test as you did before, just use pins 7 and 8 for your connections. If you still don't get continuity, then there is probably a problem in the harness that runs in the running board to the kick switch. There is also a 2-pin connector close to the switch as well that you can check.

 

Basically either the switches are bad or maybe even missing, or you have a wiring harness problem, or depending on how the made the harnesses to connect up to the running boards and the module may have even left this wiring completely out.  

 

in any case, good luck with what you find. Hopefully it can be easily resolved.

 

Xenawise

Posted

Xenawise

thank you for the great explanation and info.  This is a great forum and its folks like you that make is such.  

Correct, neither side will work with the kick switch.  I traced wires a week ago and thought everything was correct.  But my main concern was the wires going up front.   Since this install was done without the inside switch I hoped that was the easy fix.  Now with it installed I can "toggle" thru and make the board extend, move all the way to the back and turn it off completely with the DIC indicating all of these things.  Then in the on position it of course extends when the door opens.  I even tried moving it to the rear position and putting the truck in gear and it immediately retracted.

So with this new information I will crawl back under it and see.  I had pulled one switch and saw it was wired up but again I stopped at that until I had the inside switch.  

Since we think the kick switch go to ground maybe I am missing a ground wire?  I know it is grounded but maybe I need another for those switches.  

Thanks again and I will try to resolve it and post back

Dave

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 11/22/2017 at 3:39 PM, pgamboa said:

Here is my How To Video on how I was able to retrofit these Articulating (Tri-Mode) Running Boards onto my 2016 Silverado LT.  I'll have a complete parts list here shortly.

 

Enjoy the video for now! :)

 

 

Hey Phil. I’m interested in doing basically the same thing you did. I’d be willing to buy a wiring harness from you for the fact I’m not to crafty with wiring. 

Posted
Hey Phil. I’m interested in doing basically the same thing you did. I’d be willing to buy a wiring harness from you for the fact I’m not to crafty with wiring. 

Sorry I missed this.

https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2015-articulating-running-board-harness/


https://harnessdr.com/product/2016-2018-articulating-running-board-harness/


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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hey Phil, I recently purchased your harness and it was installed today. I was able to easily hook up all the connections because all the wires were labeled which made everything much easier. I also installed the inside switch to disable the boards. But no luck the boards are stuck in the retracted mode to the bed. I’ve tried many times turning on and off the truck, and kicking the switch in the back, also holding the button on the inside to get them to retract in but nothing. I’ve read through this whole forum and have had no luck on what else I can do. I appreciate any feedback thanks in advance.


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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hey guys I have a set of running boards off a 2018 Denali for sale there in good shape. Located 40 min north of Atlanta I ended up selling my truck before I installed them


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Posted
11 hours ago, chicano_de_atl said:

Hey guys I have a set of running boards off a 2018 Denali for sale there in good shape. Located 40 min north of Atlanta I ended up selling my truck before I installed them


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price shipped to Cali zip code 90744 ???

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