Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hopefully you guys can help me out here a bit.  I have a 2014 Silverado CCSB Z71 5.3 with 38000 miles on it.  I was driving to work this morning and had the reduced engine power alert come up in my DIC along with the stabilitrak light.  I pulled over, shut the truck off and re-started a few times with no success in clearing the codes with drive cycles.  While driving, the transmission was banging gears pretty hard and the torque converter was clunking worse than "normal, by GM standards".  I got to a good spot to park the truck and that is that for now.  I am anticipating a tow to the dealership as I am about 20 miles away from it now for what will hopefully fall under the powertrain warranty as my bumper to bumper was up 1 months and 2k miles ago.  Anyone have a similar problem with this or any insight as to what it may be.  Im iffy on driving it home to scan it, as I dont want to compound any problems.  I drove the truck Saturday night, probably 60 miles on the highway with no issues and it sat in the garage until this morning.  Help me out, internets!

 

Posted

Well if you hit the OnStar button and ask for an on-demand diagnostic they will email you your codes upon request. That will go a long way to helping you out

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Posted
12 minutes ago, calgator73 said:

Well if you hit the OnStar button and ask for an on-demand diagnostic they will email you your codes upon request. That will go a long way to helping you out

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

 

That would be an option if I wasn't cheap and paid for an OnStar subscription.  :sigh:  

Posted

Sometimes it is a battery/wiring issue. You might check those first to ensure good connections. As far as towing vs driving, that's your call and your money (potentially). I would like to say that this should be covered under the powertrain, but we know how stealerships work. Good luck. 

  • Like 1
Posted

GM roadside assistance covered the tow to the dealership.  I spoke to the service manager whom I’ve dealt with before.  He says that the mileage and time frame on the 3/36 was close enough that he can work with GM on the repair.  I’ll update when I hear from them in the next few days.

  • Like 1
Posted

Known electrical issue with low voltage to the BCM.  Search these forums for things like "electrical issue" or "G218 ground" or "PIT5405" for a bunch of threads about how to fix it.

Posted

My guess, throttle position sensor not following with pedal position sensor.

Posted

Apparently the ECM (Engine Control Module) took a dump.  The dealership ordered one yesterday and it should be in today.  Then they will need to install, flash and then I should be good to go.  I will get more information from the service manager when I pick the truck up.  I spoke with the service writer, which in my experience, their mechanical knowledge is limited with whatever is on the work order in front of them.  I wish I could have scanned this at my house to see what codes it tripped, but i will get whatever info I can.  Thanks for the insight.

 

15 hours ago, Coby7 said:

My guess, throttle position sensor not following with pedal position sensor.

I had this issue with my wifes ride last year( 2010 Cadillac SRX).  I chased it with my scanner for a while as the code trips the same for the accelerator pedal module and the throttle position sensor.  Ended up being the Throttle Position Sensor which of course is non serviceable and integral with the throttle body, so i replaced the throttle body and have been fine since. 

Posted

i picked my truck up last night and all seems to be well.  The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) was P16F3-Internal Redundant Memory Performance.  Apparently, when the ECM trips this code it can usually be fixed with a re-flash of the ECM.  In my case, the dealership could get no response from the ECM when attempting a re-flash, diagnosis-bad ECM.  I doesn't seem that this is a very common problem per the Service Manager, but he has seen it on other models (Cruze and Corvette).  Now that I know the code and did very minimal research, it seems as though it can have different impacts and the Reduced Power Mode usually can be cleared by a drive cycle( shutting down the vehicle, removing key, opening door, closing door, restarting the vehicle).  This will leave the check engine light on, but MAY allow a return to full power mode, which will at least get you to where you need to be without a tow.  Unfortunately, if the ECM has an internal fault, like mine did, its a wrap.  

 

All of this was covered under warranty including the tow to the dealership.  So besides a minor headache, it didn't cost me anything.  Hopefully, no one else has this issue, but if you do this may shed a little light on it. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I've been dealing with the same issue. I get code p0191 along with stabilitrak and reduced engine power pop up.
Plugs
Wires
Fuel rail cleaning
Fuel rail sensor
Fuel pump
Nothing has fixed the issue and I have to keep an obd2 reader handy to clear the codes in order for the car to drive properly . Bad situation. Thinking that the throttle body or position sensor may be the issue , but I'm going broke trying to find a fix at this point .

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 11/5/2019 at 4:02 AM, Ira1976 said:

Mine just started doing same thing.  Apparently, a hose coupler failed fram coolant res - radiator; blowing hot coolant over engine bay.  This caused truck to run hotter than normal (gm's run a little hotter than 210 anyway).  However, causes truck to burn more oil.  The truck started missing a little [odd] started showing "reduced engine power" ..."Loss oil pressure turn off engine."  However, was traveling an old county [bumpy] road when happened.  -I got the truck home did a tune up (oil, oil filter, plugs, air filter, etc-etc), also replaced 'oil sensor' and 'PCV' under throttle body.  However, dead battery / no start.  Jumped it with other car and started up and running very nice.  Driving it home - only got 8 miles and then "Stabilitrack service" notification, than "loss engine power" again...  Pulled off to side of road to turn off and on; check.  Then truck wouldn't jump or turn over ..."tic tic tic tic..." Which is normally a starter/alternator issue.  However, given the codes / vehicle messages / problem doesn't seem to sell me...  Trying to figure out if I buy a new starter / altenator and replace it <or> tow to mech.  I didn't know this is a common prob. with gm's... Any ideas?  

I've been dealing with the same issue. I get code p0191 along with stabilitrak and reduced engine power pop up.
Plugs
Wires
Fuel rail cleaning
Fuel rail sensor
Fuel pump
Nothing has fixed the issue and I have to keep an obd2 reader handy to clear the codes in order for the car to drive properly . Bad situation. Thinking that the throttle body or position sensor may be the issue , but I'm going broke trying to find a fix at this point .

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...