Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looks good! I just wish there was a way to get the icon to work on my 14 ltz with the Denali cluster. The switch does light up though. And to find someone with a red backlight that wants to trade for my blue backlight switch.

Posted

Does anybody have a link for a 2 or preferably 4 channel latching relay module that will take low or high inputs like the ones shown previously?  Looking to do the same install on my 17 Tahoe here shortly. 

 

 

Posted

Thanks to PGAmboa & Tinkering Fox - completes the Off-road Switch mod today for my behind the grille

light bar.  I also added a Rough Country grille with Lightbar as well, however, I running the factory switch with it, because it also has Daytime Running Light with it.

05242688-778E-435E-913D-D45A91A8DEBD.jpeg

B0B3CE17-6116-4AD7-8A7D-40B0E069FFC7.jpeg

87883DA5-00EC-40E9-89A1-1AC13C966E72.jpeg

7C90A71E-C7A0-4D8E-BE4F-97A7A1F2A938.jpeg

75A3E780-07E4-4DE8-8434-490A0715DC70.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Off-road Switch on the OEM light assembly is running the light bar behind the grill and was wired using the Harness Dr’s wiring harness and Tinkering Fox’s video.

 

the light bar in the grille is running factory light switch, as it has off/on for light bar & daytime running light option.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Is your light bar a rough county one ?? is any parts numbers ?? Thanks

Posted

@slj2008 - Yes in regards to Active Shutters!!  I mistakenly bought this light bar, not knowing about the Active Shutters, because it is for a '17 Sierra 1500 "without" the active shutters.   I searched for 2 years for a grille that I liked and would possibly allow me enough clearance from the active shutters to install this light bar, as I could not sell it, because everyone has active shutters it appears.

 

I found this RC Mesh Grille with Lightbar and "guessed" it would give me the necessary clearance to install the the bottom lightbar, which it did, but I had to put 1" steel spacers between active shutter mount and mounting brackets for the lgiht bar.  I had to cut a small "V" notch in (2) places on (1) shutter, to allow for  the very end curve of the light bar.  If I could have found 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" sapces and corresponding bolts, there would have been no need fo rthe notches, as the laight bar woudl have been further from the active shutters.  I still have about 2" of clearance from the light bar to the grille.  You have to remove the u-bolts for the active shutters on the side, in order to add spacers and bolts, no drilling required.   However, you WILL have to 'Greatly" MODIFY your "inner Grille Liner", in order for it to fit over the now extended Mounting Brackets for the bottom Light bar, in order to get your Grille back ona nd mounted in the proper positions.  This was a 1 hour struggle for fit, there might be a better method than me, but I used a 8" tiny hacksaw with a really fine metal blade and made my recess cuts and cut out chucnks of the inner grille liner, in order for mine to fit.

 

You will also want to pay attention to the mounting holes that I utilized for mounting the light bar.  This was only the real feasible position, due to active shutters, the light bar and the pieces of the grille.  This job took me 9 hours with time included for trying to find the hardware for the spacers, bolts and nuts that would get me to the finished position and mounting method.  This also included runnning the wires through the engine bay firewall (which I despise), as I now have wiring harnesses for my Kicker 12" sub, Amp Research Override Switch, Bottom & Top Lightbars coming from engine bay to cab.  That rubber boot is packed, haha!

 

1.)  Bottom Grille - (for 2017 GMC Sierra 1500) - Rough Country GM 30" Curved Cree LED Grille Kit - Single Row (14-18 Silverado/Sierra 1500) - SKU # 70625

 

2.)  Mesh Grille with Light Bar - Rough Country GMC Mesh Grille W/30" Dual Row Black Series LED (16-18 Sierra 1500) WITH "White" Daytime Running Light  - SKU # 70158DRL   ** Was on Backorder for 2 1/2 months - RC provided No Updates, you have to call them!!

Left Side Spacers.jpg

Left Side.jpg

Left V Notch in Shutter.jpg

Right V Notch.jpg

Right Spacers.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, HAWLURR said:

@slj2008 - Yes in regards to Active Shutters!!  I mistakenly bought this light bar, not knowing about the Active Shutters, because it is for a '17 Sierra 1500 "without" the active shutters.   I searched for 2 years for a grille that I liked and would possibly allow me enough clearance from the active shutters to install this light bar, as I could not sell it, because everyone has active shutters it appears.

 

I found this RC Mesh Grille with Lightbar and "guessed" it would give me the necessary clearance to install the the bottom lightbar, which it did, but I had to put 1" steel spacers between active shutter mount and mounting brackets for the lgiht bar.  I had to cut a small "V" notch in (2) places on (1) shutter, to allow for  the very end curve of the light bar.  If I could have found 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" sapces and corresponding bolts, there would have been no need fo rthe notches, as the laight bar woudl have been further from the active shutters.  I still have about 2" of clearance from the light bar to the grille.  You have to remove the u-bolts for the active shutters on the side, in order to add spacers and bolts, no drilling required.   However, you WILL have to 'Greatly" MODIFY your "inner Grille Liner", in order for it to fit over the now extended Mounting Brackets for the bottom Light bar, in order to get your Grille back ona nd mounted in the proper positions.  This was a 1 hour struggle for fit, there might be a better method than me, but I used a 8" tiny hacksaw with a really fine metal blade and made my recess cuts and cut out chucnks of the inner grille liner, in order for mine to fit.

 

You will also want to pay attention to the mounting holes that I utilized for mounting the light bar.  This was only the real feasible position, due to active shutters, the light bar and the pieces of the grille.  This job took me 9 hours with time included for trying to find the hardware for the spacers, bolts and nuts that would get me to the finished position and mounting method.  This also included runnning the wires through the engine bay firewall (which I despise), as I now have wiring harnesses for my Kicker 12" sub, Amp Research Override Switch, Bottom & Top Lightbars coming from engine bay to cab.  That rubber boot is packed, haha!

 

1.)  Bottom Grille - (for 2017 GMC Sierra 1500) - Rough Country GM 30" Curved Cree LED Grille Kit - Single Row (14-18 Silverado/Sierra 1500) - SKU # 70625

 

2.)  Mesh Grille with Light Bar - Rough Country GMC Mesh Grille W/30" Dual Row Black Series LED (16-18 Sierra 1500) WITH "White" Daytime Running Light  - SKU # 70158DRL   ** Was on Backorder for 2 1/2 months - RC provided No Updates, you have to call them!!

Left Side Spacers.jpg

Left Side.jpg

Left V Notch in Shutter.jpg

Right V Notch.jpg

Right Spacers.jpg

Thank You for the info & Photo's  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

@pgamboa - light bar that is tied to factory light switch using your harness is no longer working at all.  Light indicator on the display and the light switch itself doesn’t always switch Off after pressing switch for 3 seconds.  Is my switch bad (all other features are working), or is something else wrong?  Haven’t had a lot of time to troubleshoot, Hospitals keeping me busy!!

 

Going to try and troubleshoot this weekend, would just like a few things to check IF you have any.  Do we know where the fuse is located for that Switch Assy?
 

Thanks in advance. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

Was there any luck with getting the switch along with the harness to work on a 2015. I specifically have a 2015 LTZ, Z71, with the 6.2 and  8-speed. 

Edited by Robbo426

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...