Owners Pictures of 35" Tires on Stock AT4 or Trail Boss

chukronos · July 14, 2020

On 7/10/2020 at 5:56 PM, 19AT4 said:

For all you guys in here with levels without new UCA’s. I’d be careful, 10,000km later (6000miles) the front end took a beating.

The ball joint completely separated, dropped the UCA on my tire and wrecked the CV axle. The left side needed a ball joint replacement as well. $2500 later it’s fixed and back at factory height. Looks like a car again (Use to have 34” Toyo MT’s with the level). Time for some 275 or 285/65 Ridge grapplers and I’m calling it a day unfortunately.

Crazy! Just last week a guy at a local paint shop was telling me to NOT level my 2020 denali. He said he sees broken ball joints all the time on GM vehicles.

Does anyone know what you would need to do to make sure that doesn't happen?

Edited July 14, 2020 by chukronos

Mark Vyskocil · July 14, 2020

17 hours ago, bryceadams22 said:

How's this driving? just got 2020 AT4 and looking to do this exact setup.

No issues what so ever. Just over 20k on it now. Tire wear is minimal. Rides slightly firmer then stock with a more planted heavy feel. I run my tires at 33-34psi. Been seeing a lot of UCA ball joint talk. But I haven't had any problems. I work in the collision industry and my company has 14 locations. I haven't seen or heard of any late model GM trucks coming in this this type damage. I could see it happening for sure, but I haven't experienced it.

I did swap out the 1/4 "shim" spacers for some 3/8 hub centric ones from Custom Offsets. Not for more poke but felt the hub centric set up was better for the long run. Also added AirLift bags in the rear since she really sagged with my boat behind her. Very happy with my set up. Can't tell you ho many guys can't believe those are 35's when they walk up.

bryceadams22 · July 14, 2020

5 minutes ago, Mark Vyskocil said:

No issues what so ever. Just over 20k on it now. Tire wear is minimal. Rides slightly firmer then stock with a more planted heavy feel. I run my tires at 33-34psi. Been seeing a lot of UCA ball joint talk. But I haven't had any problems. I work in the collision industry and my company has 14 locations. I haven't seen or heard of any late model GM trucks coming in this this type damage. I could see it happening for sure, but I haven't experienced it.

I did swap out the 1/4 "shim" spacers for some 3/8 hub centric ones from Custom Offsets. Not for more poke but felt the hub centric set up was better for the long run. Also added AirLift bags in the rear since she really sagged with my boat behind her. Very happy with my set up. Can't tell you ho many guys can't believe those are 35's when they walk up.

Awesome looking truck man, its definitely a head turner. So there is no tire rub at lock forward or reverse? I keep going back and forth on whether I want a M/T or A/T. I will look into the spacer as I have seen a lot of talk about many people going that route. What tire specs are you running again and brand?

Thanks man helping me out hah

Mark Vyskocil · July 14, 2020

18 minutes ago, bryceadams22 said:

Awesome looking truck man, its definitely a head turner. So there is no tire rub at lock forward or reverse? I keep going back and forth on whether I want a M/T or A/T. I will look into the spacer as I have seen a lot of talk about many people going that route. What tire specs are you running again and brand?

Thanks man helping me out hah

No rubs, lock to lock, forward, reverse or sharp curbs or driveways. Now you will have to "massage" the liners and mud flaps. I trimmed, pushed, pulled on plastic the liners for sure. But you gotta break some eggs to make and omelette right? I went 12.50, going with an 11.50 would lessen this I feel sure, but where is the fun in that?

I love Nitto Mud Grapplers. I've had 5 sets on 3 different trucks. Can count on 50k plus with good rotations, pushed 70k on one set but they started to crack. Road noise is average for a mud tire but can kept it to a minimum with rotation. Wait to long and they will HOWL when you move them. Typical for aggressive tire tread. I try to rotate every 5000 or so. My current AT4 has 35x12.50x20's.

If you go my route, plan on the spacer as a must. Without at minimum a 1/4 shim the lugs on the inside sidewall of the Mud Grappler rubbed the upper control arm just a touch at full droop. I drove it for a day and never heard or felt anything but had seen how close it was and got the shim/spacer immediately. I don't care for too much "poke" so no big 2in wheel spacers for me. I prefer the tall tucked just under the fender look. I used a 3/8in one with factory lugs and studs.

19AT4 · July 14, 2020

3 hours ago, chukronos said:

Crazy! Just last week a guy at a local paint shop was telling me to NOT level my 2020 denali. He said he sees broken ball joints all the time on GM vehicles.

Does anyone know what you would need to do to make sure that doesn't happen?

Get a kit that comes with new upper control arms (Upper ball joints are pressed in them from factory, but you can replace them on the aftermarket ones) check out ready lift. They have the proper kits

Dersch · July 14, 2020

Since there is a lot of talk going on about people using the level kits and breaking ball joints cause of the upper control arms id like to drop my update.

Tomorrow im dropping the truck off at the shop to get the Ready Lift SST 2" lift put on my trailboss. https://www.readylift.com/at4-trail-boss-plus-2-0-sst-lift-kit-gm-1500-at4-trail-boss-4wd-2019.html

Now this kit says 2" but it's actually a 4" lift essentially since i have the trailboss with the 2" lift from factory.

I will be running 35x12.5x20 geolander MTs on 20x10 +0 offset fuel wheels.

I mocked those up in stock trailboss height and i am definitely gonna have to trim the fender felt liner and the mud flap. But honestly I dont mind at all. I'll trim plastic that can easily be replaced any day.

Im super excited to pick the truck up and to see the final product. Even with just the tires on there wow did it look good!

bryceadams22 · July 15, 2020

6 hours ago, Mark Vyskocil said:

No rubs, lock to lock, forward, reverse or sharp curbs or driveways. Now you will have to "massage" the liners and mud flaps. I trimmed, pushed, pulled on plastic the liners for sure. But you gotta break some eggs to make and omelette right? I went 12.50, going with an 11.50 would lessen this I feel sure, but where is the fun in that?

I love Nitto Mud Grapplers. I've had 5 sets on 3 different trucks. Can count on 50k plus with good rotations, pushed 70k on one set but they started to crack. Road noise is average for a mud tire but can kept it to a minimum with rotation. Wait to long and they will HOWL when you move them. Typical for aggressive tire tread. I try to rotate every 5000 or so. My current AT4 has 35x12.50x20's.

If you go my route, plan on the spacer as a must. Without at minimum a 1/4 shim the lugs on the inside sidewall of the Mud Grappler rubbed the upper control arm just a touch at full droop. I drove it for a day and never heard or felt anything but had seen how close it was and got the shim/spacer immediately. I don't care for too much "poke" so no big 2in wheel spacers for me. I prefer the tall tucked just under the fender look. I used a 3/8in one with factory lugs and studs.

were the spacers you got the actual 3/8 (0.375) spacer or the hub centric ring? I am having trouble finding ones that fit the 2020 at4 other than a full inch or higher. 4WheelParts is installing everything for me and all they sell are 1" and up.

bryceadams22 · July 15, 2020

20 hours ago, Mark Vyskocil said:

No rubs, lock to lock, forward, reverse or sharp curbs or driveways. Now you will have to "massage" the liners and mud flaps. I trimmed, pushed, pulled on plastic the liners for sure. But you gotta break some eggs to make and omelette right? I went 12.50, going with an 11.50 would lessen this I feel sure, but where is the fun in that?

I love Nitto Mud Grapplers. I've had 5 sets on 3 different trucks. Can count on 50k plus with good rotations, pushed 70k on one set but they started to crack. Road noise is average for a mud tire but can kept it to a minimum with rotation. Wait to long and they will HOWL when you move them. Typical for aggressive tire tread. I try to rotate every 5000 or so. My current AT4 has 35x12.50x20's.

If you go my route, plan on the spacer as a must. Without at minimum a 1/4 shim the lugs on the inside sidewall of the Mud Grappler rubbed the upper control arm just a touch at full droop. I drove it for a day and never heard or felt anything but had seen how close it was and got the shim/spacer immediately. I don't care for too much "poke" so no big 2in wheel spacers for me. I prefer the tall tucked just under the fender look. I used a 3/8in one with factory lugs and studs.

Also, what kind of MPG are you getting?

Mark Vyskocil · July 16, 2020

On 7/14/2020 at 11:03 PM, bryceadams22 said:

were the spacers you got the actual 3/8 (0.375) spacer or the hub centric ring? I am having trouble finding ones that fit the 2020 at4 other than a full inch or higher. 4WheelParts is installing everything for me and all they sell are 1" and up.

They are both, I bought .375 BORA hub centric spacers from Custom Offsets. They look just like the ones on the right in this pic. Just plugged in the truck info and ordered what came up. The image on the site shows a 5 lug. But it warns that the image may be incorrect. They were perfect, thick enough to accomplish what I needed, thin enough to use stock lugs and studs. I'm averaging around 15mpg. But I drive it like I stole it. Hard on the gas, hard on the brakes. I know I could get better if I kept my foot off the floor.

bryceadams22 · July 16, 2020

1 hour ago, Mark Vyskocil said:

They are both, I bought .375 BORA hub centric spacers from Custom Offsets. They look just like the ones on the right in this pic. Just plugged in the truck info and ordered what came up. The image on the site shows a 5 lug. But it warns that the image may be incorrect. They were perfect, thick enough to accomplish what I needed, thin enough to use stock lugs and studs. I'm averaging around 15mpg. But I drive it like I stole it. Hard on the gas, hard on the brakes. I know I could get better if I kept my foot off the floor.

Awesome, Level is ordered and should be in today or tomorrow. In tint shop as we speak and going to pick up tires after work today. I feel like a kid waiting on Christmas morning lol. Ill post some before and after pics once she is finished.

BetaX · July 18, 2020

2" SST

285/75/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

No wheel spacers.

Zero rubbing and no trimming required. Very little clearance at the control arm but no clearance issues.

MAK2013 · July 18, 2020

3 minutes ago, BetaX said:

2" SST

285/75/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

No wheel spacers.

Zero rubbing and no trimming required. Very little clearance at the control arm but no clearance issues.

This is about the 4th SST kit I’ve done on Silverado/Sierras. The Sierras don’t have as much clearance as the Silverados due to the fender Wells but a 35” will fit without spacers if the lift is done correctly

Edited July 18, 2020 by Alex Kemple
Spelling

RadoPhan · July 19, 2020

This is about the 4th SST kit I’ve done on Silverado/Sierras. The Sierras don’t have as much clearance as the Silverados due to the fender Wells but a 35” will fit without spacers if the lift is done correctly

Have you installed any on a Trailboss that ran stock rims? What size tire width cleared the new UCAs?

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MAK2013 · July 19, 2020

19 minutes ago, RadoPhan said:

Have you installed any on a Trailboss that ran stock rims? What size tire width cleared the new UCAs?

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Yes I have. The post of the AT4 above was done at my shop. He’s running the stock 18” wheels. We recommend a 285/75R18 as the max size but you can get a little bit bigger than that if you want to trim the fender wells and pin the integrated mud flaps back. This also depends on the UCAs you use. We used readylift for most of them, if you get a UCA that is substantially larger than stock, it’s going to hit your tires. The pinch point on these builds is the UCAs. They get pretty damn close to the tire, everything else clears really well

Edit: UCA brands like Zone, BDS, Fabtech are not going to clear the tire unless you go with a more substantial lift. If you want to clear 35s on a 2” lift on the TB/AT4, the only UCA I’ve had good results with is Readylift. I’ve heard the same about Rough Country but I don’t sell their crap parts in my shops lol

Edited July 19, 2020 by Alex Kemple
UCA info

RadoPhan · July 19, 2020

Yes I have. The post of the AT4 above was done at my shop. He’s running the stock 18” wheels. We recommend a 285/75R18 as the max size but you can get a little bit bigger than that if you want to trim the fender wells and pin the integrated mud flaps back. This also depends on the UCAs you use. We used readylift for most of them, if you get a UCA that is substantially larger than stock, it’s going to hit your tires. The pinch point on these builds is the UCAs. They get pretty damn close to the tire, everything else clears really well

Edit: UCA brands like Zone, BDS, Fabtech are not going to clear the tire unless you go with a more substantial lift. If you want to clear 35s on a 2” lift on the TB/AT4, the only UCA I’ve had good results with is Readylift. I’ve heard the same about Rough Country but I don’t sell their crap parts in my shops lol

Thanks for the feedback! I’m already running 295/70R18 on stock rims and stock lift and no rubbing whatsoever. But now I want a leveled look and there’s some feedback on RL site saying that they don’t recommend going over 11” wide tires on the Trailboss stock wheels due to offset but then others said they have cleared it. I want to use the RL SST 1.75” kit with their UCAs.

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