Rear window leak

UGADawgs · December 4, 2020

10 minutes ago, n8huntsman said:

Here are my numbers on the window. Also, the frame measured about .160" from the glass to the plastic frame.

Looks like the same glass that has been out for a while.

OnTheReel · December 4, 2020

Same glass panels in a better frame, maybe? Eh...probably not.

UGADawgs · December 4, 2020

23 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

Same glass panels in a better frame, maybe? Eh...probably not.

My money is also on not. Especially when they changed E2 to E4 with the previous frame change. I would expect another E number.

RadBrad · December 4, 2020

42 minutes ago, n8huntsman said:

Here are my numbers on the window. Also, the frame measured about .160" from the glass to the plastic frame.

Did you dealer service manager or parts manager know why the part numbers were changed? Any frame changes like mentioned above? I'm all for getting my leaker replaced with a new part if it indeed will fix this issue!

econometrics · December 4, 2020

T1 rear window repairs... "60% of the time, they work EVERY time. "

SPASierra · December 5, 2020

I got my 2019 Sierra SLT back in October, and have been sitting here reading your posts thinking "I have had my truck through the wash and plenty of Mid-Atlantic rain storms since I got it. Still no leaks". Then I figured for ****** and giggles I would go out and check, since it has been raining all day. I am sad to report that I have two nice little water trails down the inside of the passenger and driver side of the rear window.

I finally got my permanent plates today, and have an appointment for my state/emissions inspection on Wednesday. I guess I can either have them try and fix it (still under warranty), or just seal it myself. It isn't a lot of water, and there is no musty/moldy smell inside. The rear window shows E2 on the glass.

SPASierra · December 5, 2020

Was thinking about the flowable silicone, and maybe a syringe with a bent needle applicator to get it into everywhere without making a mess. This looks interesting, and is cheap enough to try.

ShotgunZ71 · December 5, 2020

I parked mine outside last night and we had nearly an inch of rain. Checked this morning and it was all dry. Not sure how long it will last, but I'll see if my own 2nd fix holds up better than the dealer's 3 tries.

SPASierra · December 5, 2020

9 minutes ago, ShotgunZ71 said:

I parked mine outside last night and we had nearly an inch of rain. Checked this morning and it was all dry. Not sure how long it will last, but I'll see if my own 2nd fix holds up better than the dealer's 3 tries.

Did you just run a bead of seam sealer across the top of the window? It is too cold out to deal with it now, but I was wondering if swapping the open cell foam on the inside of the spoiler for something like Trim Lok D shaped stripping would help direct water out and around the top of the rear window. I is a closed cell foam, so no water will get through it like the pictures of the soaked foam earlier in the thread.

ShotgunZ71 · December 5, 2020

7 minutes ago, SPASierra said:

Did you just run a bead of seam sealer across the top of the window? It is too cold out to deal with it now, but I was wondering if swapping the open cell foam on the inside of the spoiler for something like Trim Lok D shaped stripping would help direct water out and around the top of the rear window. I is a closed cell foam, so no water will get through it like the pictures of the soaked foam earlier in the thread.

Yes, I took the spoiler off and ran a bead of seam sealer across the top of the frame (where the cracks are) and also each bolt hole and alignment hole. What I noticed was some shrinkage after curing, so I removed the spoiler again and added a little more. Hoping this is a longer-term remedy. The water is running over the spoiler and then curling under the bottom of the spoiler onto the window frame where the cracks are.

SPASierra · December 5, 2020

Got it. IF I am going to the trouble of dropping the headliner to remove the spoiler, I'm going to replace the open cell foam while I am there. I don't think they will ever properly redesign the frame to keep it from cracking, so a waterproof/closed-cell foam will at least eliminate the sponge from holding water and letting it seep into the crack of the frame. At least that is what I am hoping. My truck is black, so I don't have as many worries about something being overly noticeable, even if I go with a P shaped stripping under the spoiler that sticks out into the window gap to seal it. (along with additional sealant to fill the gap)

Fizzery6 · December 5, 2020

The "E" means that the glass has been approved for road use in Europe on European member licensed automobiles by the Economic Committee of Europe (ECE). The number next to the "E" indicates the country which approved the item. The numbers are as follows: 1 - Germany; 2 - France; 3 - Italy; 4 - Netherlands; 5 - Sweden; 6 - Belgium; 7 - Hungary; 8 - Czech Republic; 9 - Spain; 10 - Yugoslavia; 11 - United Kingdom; 12 - Austria; 13 - Luxembourg; 14 - Switzerland; 15 - (vacant); 16 - Norway; 17 - Finland; 18 - Denmark; 19- Romania; 20 - Poland; 21 - Portugal; 22 - Russian Federation; 23 - Greece; 24 - (vacant); 25 - (vacant); and 26 - Slovenia.

1. Temperlite-LT is the brand name for this type of glass. This is the registered brand of Asahi India's fully tempered safety glass for use as side and back glass.

2. ISI Specifications.

3. Logo of Asahi

4. Manufacturing Licence of unit conplying with IS specifications. This particular number in the picture translates to - 2081844 Asahi India Glass Ltd, 94.4Kms. National Highway-8, Vill.-Jaliawas,Tehsil-Bawal, Rewari, Haryana, Pin - 123501

5. E code. indicates the country that certified the windshield. E2 is France

6. TP-M33A - This is the model number of the glass. TP here means tempered, 33 means 3.3mm thickness and A means for use in Automobiles. Since tempered glass has other than auto use as well the 'A' is used. This is unique to the manufacturer.

7. 43R-001264 - certification according to EU standards

8. Identification of the manufaturing time frame of the glass. Not sure how to dechiper this code, but let me try and guess. My car was purchased in Dec 2007. Manufactured in Oct 2007.

FUYAO (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd.
Fuyao Group is a joint venture corporation founded in 1987 in Fuzhou specialized in production of automotive safety glass, and is the first company of the trade in China listed in the Shanghai Stock Exchange in 1993. Fuyao (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd. established in Hong Kong in December 1994, the company is responsible for import and export business of the Fuyao Group. Fuyao Group is the largest, most advanced manufacturer, and the biggest exporter of the automotive glass in China. Today, FUYAO automotive glass are successfully exported to Asia, America, Australia, Europe, including Ukraine and Russia.

Transient · December 6, 2020

My money is also on not. Especially when they changed E2 to E4 with the previous frame change. I would expect another E number.

E9 is another number.

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UGADawgs · December 6, 2020

3 hours ago, Transient said:

E9 is another number.

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The E2 and E4 are the FUYAO version. Typically seen coming from USA production.

The E9 is the Vitro version. Typically seen coming from MX production.

FUYAO E4 and Vitro E9 share the same tapered shape at the top.

FUYAO E2 was the initial version installed the first production runs that not have the tapered reinforcement.

However, as we all know, the tapered reinforcement did not resolve the issue.

C Gerber · December 7, 2020

A friend of ours works at the Fort Wayne plant, and I heard him mention that they had engineers there at the plant for several months trying to figure out the issue and how to fix it. I didn't ask him whether they ever think they found a fix, but based on this thread, I have to assume they never did. I will have to keep an eye on our 2020 Denali and I wish I had known about this before our purchase.