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Anyone start tearing down a 2019 to install sound system?

WhineyTTwins
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Blk99cobra Enthusiast

Blk99cobra

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As far as i know they tapped into the signal on the bose amp and all the outputs to the speakers are coming from the audiocontrol amp so i have hard dtc codes in my computer from the bose amp not having a load on the output side and the dealership is saying thats why they cannot do the update so for the people that went a similiar route as me how was this problem solved? 

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Chris walker
Chris walker

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons

Chris walker
Chris walker

Ron,   You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not us

MadCaddie
MadCaddie

The Bose system does not sound good in the 2019s.  For the average listner they will be fine I guess but definitely not what I'd call good.  Not that any bose system is great persay but it's disappoin

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WhineyTTwins Enthusiast

WhineyTTwins

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23 hours ago, Blk99cobra said:

As far as i know they tapped into the signal on the bose amp and all the outputs to the speakers are coming from the audiocontrol amp so i have hard dtc codes in my computer from the bose amp not having a load on the output side and the dealership is saying thats why they cannot do the update so for the people that went a similiar route as me how was this problem solved? 

Really don't feel like it should be a problem. Many folks here tap their signal wires off the bose and have been able to update. Just my 2 cents but I really don't think that would cause a failed update. How do you know you are getting codes, check engine light? Unplugging the battery for a bit and letting everything reset may clear and allow you to force the update. From a technical perspective, I can't imagine an amplifier stating "no load" would cause that. Worst case scenario, throw stock speakers back in and plug them in but I would try another dealership before I went through that hassle. 

Blk99cobra Enthusiast

Blk99cobra

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Yeah i was thinking the same thing so i unhooked the battery for several hours and then  went to another dealer about 30 minutes away and they told pretty much said the same thing the truck wouldnt take the update and then they showed me my truck had 4 trouble codes stored in it one was where i have led tag light bulbs another was where my rear camera isnt working and the other 2 is from the factory amp not having a load on the output side of it so i guess i have no choice but to return it to stock and see what happens if it dont take the update then i prob have much bigger problems 

pupabruh Enthusiast

pupabruh

Posted
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I am getting some Pheonix gold speakers. The shop said they were better than Bose is that true if anyone ever heard of them. I am only getting new speakers and tweeters no amp or sub woofer good deal ? $400 Instalation included. 

ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/17/2019 at 3:57 PM, Blk99cobra said:

Yeah i was thinking the same thing so i unhooked the battery for several hours and then  went to another dealer about 30 minutes away and they told pretty much said the same thing the truck wouldnt take the update and then they showed me my truck had 4 trouble codes stored in it one was where i have led tag light bulbs another was where my rear camera isnt working and the other 2 is from the factory amp not having a load on the output side of it so i guess i have no choice but to return it to stock and see what happens if it dont take the update then i prob have much bigger problems 

Try these inline before your high level inputs to put a false load on the Bose amp.

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/accessories/ac-lgd/

lgd-pair-connected.jpg

Edited by ApertureX
  • 2 weeks later...
dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

Posted
Posted

I just had a JL 12” TW3 powerwedge with a JL JX5001/D amp installed last night (no pics because I need to clean the wiring up first) and boy does it sound good! Fills in the sound quite nicely, the 12” digs down to get those low frequencies, and it’s a sealed box so it’s nice and accurate, not bloaty and boomy. The box fits easily under the seat and the amp is tiny! Things have changed in 15 years since I last had a big sub/amp and I can’t believe how small the equipment is now.

 

I haven’t had the kids in the truck yet but they love when I turn up the home stereo for them. I’ll probably put their hearing protection ear muffs on for a demo ? There’s othing like the feeling of being punched in the chest when the base hits.

ADC Enthusiast

ADC

Posted
Posted

I just got quoted $450 to install a single amp on a 2019 non bose system from a shop.  That price includes the LCI2 controller, and all wiring.  That sound about right?  The controller alone from the shop is $149.   Thoughts?

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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I paid $1200 CAD for my setup installed but they didn’t use a LC2i (something different, not as good, and I’ll be cleaning up some of the install). I’ve also been dealing with them for almost 20 years. 

 

For $450 I’d buy a quick connect Lc2i with harness (no splicing) and install the power wires myself. An amp install kit is $30-$80 depending on wire size.

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Mastiff Enthusiast

Mastiff

Posted
Posted
On 8/28/2019 at 8:33 AM, dw91 said:

I just had a JL 12” TW3 powerwedge with a JL JX5001/D amp installed last night (no pics because I need to clean the wiring up first) and boy does it sound good! Fills in the sound quite nicely, the 12” digs down to get those low frequencies, and it’s a sealed box so it’s nice and accurate, not bloaty and boomy. The box fits easily under the seat and the amp is tiny! Things have changed in 15 years since I last had a big sub/amp and I can’t believe how small the equipment is now.

 

I haven’t had the kids in the truck yet but they love when I turn up the home stereo for them. I’ll probably put their hearing protection ear muffs on for a demo ? There’s othing like the feeling of being punched in the chest when the base hits.

Can you post a pic of it please. Wanting to see if it sticks out past the bottom of the seat.

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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I can, it’s close but doesn’t stick past the seat. It actually fits quite nicely back there. If it was in a crew cab it would be too big and need a longer box designed instead.

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

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18 hours ago, Mastiff said:

Can you post a pic of it please. Wanting to see if it sticks out past the bottom of the seat.

 

72D6E796-7B68-4A03-8EF2-6D7087D244E8.jpeg

A76B59D4-1BEC-4D90-96C1-46FECFB65A7F.jpeg

Mastiff Enthusiast

Mastiff

Posted
Posted

Thanks man. I see they make a wedge enclosure too that would be a little shorter. I can’t decide if I’m gonna do the 12tw3 or the 13tw5. 

dw91 Enthusiast

dw91

Posted
Posted (edited)

The truck wedge might be better if you want shorter. This sits about 4” from the door side edge pushed against the little hump and short of the seat. I really wanted it to fit under the small seat but oh well. I can easily remove the box and throw it in the back if I need the space.

 

I couldn't imagine needing more than the T3. If you really want the whole neighborhood to hear it or rattle the interior apart sure. This thing hits hard enough for me and the only time I have it turned right up is to laugh at how ridiculous it is. You can feel it in your chest at low volumes and it moves your hair and vibrates your eyeballs if you turn it up. 

Edited by dw91
Smoothbassman Enthusiast

Smoothbassman

Posted
Posted
I can not for the life of me get the bottom piece off. 
Did you figure out how to get that off? I got stuck in the same spot trying to take my panels apart.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Smoothbassman Enthusiast

Smoothbassman

Posted
Posted
Did you figure out how to get that off? I got stuck in the same spot trying to take my panels apart.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Well this morning I figured it out after contorting in position to see behind the dashboard at the bottom. I found 5 clips and 2 screws back there.

Those clips are Overkill. I felt like I was about to break that bottom piece before it finally released. You only need 2 clips to hold that piece in. So on reassembly I removed the center clip.

After I got those screws out, the panel dropped down with ease. I was able to tie into the 12 V lighter circuit and add a dual Port quick charge USB outlet and voltmeter combo.

I added another one in the center console and dropped 2 extra leads for future expansion. c708dea46187c96c8aa7f731bd55dd2e.jpg807caa3d9ccc2a66d2489dbbfa92e694.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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