Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, KMGZ400 said:

sorry I dont feel like reading through this entire thread, but the 19+ trucks you cannot shut the "auto-stop" off at all? is that standard on all engine options? that is absurd.. I have a C class that I can hit a button and it shuts off.

You can turn Auto Start/Stop off, this thread is not about A-S/S though. This thread is about the engine shutdown feature if you leave the truck idling in park for longer than half an hour. As already stated, it's a lawyer mandated safety feature because idiots were pulling their vehicles into the garage and leaving them running, poisoning themselves with carbon monoxide. Most (maybe all?) cars with push button start have this, not just GM. 

Posted
On 1/22/2019 at 1:44 PM, amxguy1970 said:

^This

 

Have you tried making sure the gas cap is all the way tight? That usually does the trick...

 

Tyler

No gas cap on new body

Posted

Try this - not sure if it will work for idling, but it does work for disabling the auto-stop.  

 

If you pop the hood, start the vehicle, and then close the hood, it disables to the auto-stop.  Might work to keep it idling while parked as well.  I think it is a disable to keep the engine running during service, so it could disable the shut down during extended idling as well.  

Posted
On 7/31/2019 at 1:02 PM, KMGZ400 said:

sorry I dont feel like reading through this entire thread, but the 19+ trucks you cannot shut the "auto-stop" off at all? is that standard on all engine options? that is absurd.. I have a C class that I can hit a button and it shuts off.

This thread has absolutely NOTHING to do with the auto-stop feature.  You might want to read at least the first post...

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 1/22/2019 at 4:00 PM, Black02Silverado said:

Interesting.  I wonder why they designed this into it.  This is what I found in the owners manual.  "If the vehicle is left parked and running with the RKE transmitter outside the vehicle, it will continue to run for up to half an hour."

 

No mention of how to turn this feature off.

 

Good reason for this, to prevent someone from accidentally killing himself or his family....and possibly why a timeout on the remote start also.

 

With a key ignition you must shut off the engine to remove the key and take it with you when you leave the vehicle. Not so with a keyless ignition where the engine will run or turn off with a push of the dash button with the fob remaining your pocket. It is possible to forget to hit the dash button and exit the vehicle leaving the engine running. Park in a garage attached to the house and go to bed with the engine running all night or until it runs out of gas and the family may not wake up.

Posted
2 hours ago, Thomcat said:

Good reason for this, to prevent someone from accidentally killing himself or his family....and possibly why a timeout on the remote start also.

 

With a key ignition you must shut off the engine to remove the key and take it with you when you leave the vehicle. Not so with a keyless ignition where the engine will run or turn off with a push of the dash button with the fob remaining your pocket. It is possible to forget to hit the dash button and exit the vehicle leaving the engine running. Park in a garage attached to the house and go to bed with the engine running all night or until it runs out of gas and the family may not wake up.

Yeah, after researching it more and seeing on the new that people are dying from carbon monoxide poisoning due to forgetting to turn off their vehicle when they get home.  This mainly has been Toyota vehicles.  So I guess it is a safety feature.

Posted (edited)
On 7/31/2019 at 3:34 PM, jlong1984 said:

You can turn Auto Start/Stop off, this thread is not about A-S/S though. This thread is about the engine shutdown feature if you leave the truck idling in park for longer than half an hour. As already stated, it's a lawyer mandated safety feature because idiots were pulling their vehicles into the garage and leaving them running, poisoning themselves with carbon monoxide. Most (maybe all?) cars with push button start have this, not just GM. 

I hate when people ignore the OP post and after 6 pages of posts think they are so smart they have the answer no one else does. asshat.

Edited by Mountain boy
  • Haha 1
Posted

The idea of this being because people are leaving there car running by accident with new keyless systems makes zero sense to me. There is zero real different between key or keyless. You still have to turn the car on or off, the only difference is doing it by turning a key or pressing a button. What would make anyone more likely to 'forget' to turn there car off because they use a button instead of a key. I mean seriously, for getting to turn your car off isnt an issue of how you turn your car on and off. It's a memory problem. I'd like to see any evidence that these people who forget to turn their vehicles off are more likely to do so because they use a button instead of a key. To call it a safety feature is absurd. If people cant remember how to operate a vehicle, or really any device, because of something as simple of knowing you need to turn something on and off to use it, they shouldn't be using such device. I mean seriously. It's not like the car magically turns on on its own, so you might forget to turn it off. This is no different then someone forgetting to turn there stove or heater or anything else off. That's no ones fault but their own, and has everything to do with their memory problems not a lack of safety in the device. This new feature however is dangerous and will likely lead to deaths, if nothing else but pets. To not offer an option to turn it off is reckless and unsafe and hopefully an unfortunate result of this will lead to them being sued over this. And unlike people suing over getting burned by coffee, it will be justified. It's not difficult to offer an option to disable this. Some cars do. I know a Jeep I rented last year allowed you to turn this off. But the 2019 GMC Arcadia and 2019 chevy Tahoo I've been driving this summer does not. 

  • Like 1
Posted

It's habit.  The couple of times I've gotten rentals or loaners with keyless ignition I've had to make a point to remember turning them off.  I've never forgotten to turn off one with a key, but that's all I've used for 30+ years.  I'm sure if I had a keyless ignition all the time I would quickly get used to shutting it off.

  • Like 1
Posted
24 minutes ago, jwhjr said:

It's habit.  The couple of times I've gotten rentals or loaners with keyless ignition I've had to make a point to remember turning them off.  I've never forgotten to turn off one with a key, but that's all I've used for 30+ years.  I'm sure if I had a keyless ignition all the time I would quickly get used to shutting it off.

Is it not the habit to turn the car off in general, not the way you do it. If its habit, wouldn't you try and go turn it off using a key? In which case you would realize that there is no key and remember you have to press the button. Why would you forget to even try and turn the car off just because you dont use a key. If anything, that habit should insure you turn the vehicle off. You may forget the way you turn it off because you have used a key for decades, but then you would still try and turn it off. You wouldn't just forget you have to turn a car off. Just how to do it. Again, you have to turn the car on still, it doesn't magically turn on. So you still have that habit of starting and stopping a car.

Posted
3 minutes ago, Jeff Knox said:

Is it not the habit to turn the car off in general, not the way you do it. If its habit, wouldn't you try and go turn it off using a key? In which case you would realize that there is no key and remember you have to press the button. Why would you forget to even try and turn the car off just because you dont use a key. If anything, that habit should insure you turn the vehicle off. You may forget the way you turn it off because you have used a key for decades, but then you would still try and turn it off. You wouldn't just forget you have to turn a car off. Just how to do it. Again, you have to turn the car on still, it doesn't magically turn on. So you still have that habit of starting and stopping a car.

I agree, but just telling you my experience. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/2/2019 at 1:12 PM, Mountain boy said:

I hate when people ignore the OP post and after 6 pages of posts think they are so smart they have the answer no one else does. asshat.

Where did I say I've got answers no one else has?  In fact, I even said it had been said before, as you can see in bold below. You don't like what I've got to say? There's a block list, feel free to put me on it dickhead. 

 

On 7/31/2019 at 3:34 PM, jlong1984 said:

You can turn Auto Start/Stop off, this thread is not about A-S/S though. This thread is about the engine shutdown feature if you leave the truck idling in park for longer than half an hour. As already stated, it's a lawyer mandated safety feature because idiots were pulling their vehicles into the garage and leaving them running, poisoning themselves with carbon monoxide. Most (maybe all?) cars with push button start have this, not just GM. 

 

Posted

One act to consider is in keyed vehicles people turn the key off and remove it as they need the keys to unlock their house door and/or it's a memory function to turn and remove the key(s).  When people already have their key(s) they don't need to turn the vehicle off to get them as they already have them.

  • Like 1
Posted

I had this happen to me.  We had sports this weekend and it started raining heavily.  So we went to the truck.> We had to start it because it was shot and humid.   Ran for 15 mins or so and turned off. Thought I ran out of gas. 

 

They did this because of some people that have pulled their cars in the garage and forgot to turn it off and died or got sick from Carbon Monoxide.  Just seems people can't take accountability for their own stupidity and looking to blame anyone that they can.  So Manufacturers are doing this now.  Ford has done it as well in their push to start vehicles. I think GM sets theirs much shorter though time period than others. 

Posted
On 8/2/2019 at 9:04 AM, Thomcat said:

Good reason for this, to prevent someone from accidentally killing himself or his family....and possibly why a timeout on the remote start also.

 

With a key ignition you must shut off the engine to remove the key and take it with you when you leave the vehicle. Not so with a keyless ignition where the engine will run or turn off with a push of the dash button with the fob remaining your pocket. It is possible to forget to hit the dash button and exit the vehicle leaving the engine running. Park in a garage attached to the house and go to bed with the engine running all night or until it runs out of gas and the family may not wake up.

Darwinism...     I'm fine with that....  CO due to car exhaust in garage?   where are your detectors?    We suffer because of f'ing idiots...  

 

But at the very least, the manufacturers should have an manual override , key perhaps or button. WE have demonstrated there is need for end user and prolong idling.    

 

If manufactures keep this up, they'll write themselves out of the fire, police, public works and more market... 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...