Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Another engineering fail, in my opinion, is that with the load stop up, the bed's about an inch too short to hold an 8' sheet of plywood (or any 8' lumber).  Come on man, couldn't gimme another inch?
I ask God the same question.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • Haha 6
Posted
7 hours ago, brothernov said:

Another engineering fail, in my opinion, is that with the load stop up, the bed's about an inch too short to hold an 8' sheet of plywood (or any 8' lumber).  Come on man, couldn't gimme another inch?

That's what she said....

  • Like 4
  • Haha 1
Posted

I guess I was greedy when i asked for more inches .........I got 6".........

 

That's my tailgate I am talking about ...........

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Are you guys interested in a fix for the load stop so that it stays in place? Trying to gt some feed back.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/17/2019 at 11:02 AM, brothernov said:

Another engineering fail, in my opinion, is that with the load stop up, the bed's about an inch too short to hold an 8' sheet of plywood (or any 8' lumber).  Come on man, couldn't gimme another inch?

That's what she said.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
On 9/14/2019 at 10:32 PM, randomledders said:

Around here it’s an 80$ fine for leaving a hitch in when not towing anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another BS way for the gov't to make money of the working person.

Posted

I do not need this - I have a 8 foot box so I do not need this gimmick.   Also....can't wait to see how it fails with winter and salt in the North country.......

Posted
On 9/23/2019 at 5:39 AM, elcamino said:

Another BS way for the gov't to make money of the working person.

Not the working person, the lazy one with casual disregard for the safety of others.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Daverado said:

Not the working person, the lazy one with casual disregard for the safety of others.

 

Not to mention their shin bones. If I leave mine in I'll be looking for a band aid soon.

 

I love the tailgate.

Edited by OHDenali
Posted

OP if you had got the standard size bed, and turn the handle bars so the tire sits in the front corner of the bed, slide the rear wheels together in the center of the tail gate you can close the tailgate with 2 bikes in the bed.

i am upgrading to the HD which has 4" longer bed length. i am fairly certain you can fit 3 bikes in and close the gate. if not they make a tail gate extender that holds the gate open a couple inches at the top. works great. i can fit a full sice 4 wheeler and my dirtbike in the bed with this device.

your truck is already purchased, but may be worth looking into if you ever replace it in the future.

 

sometimes i wish it was easy to remove the front wheel on a dirt bike and clamp the forks into a holder like a bicycle. that would make securing dirt bikes a snap.

Posted

I pull mine when not towing so I can use the multipro tailgate, but I fail to see this big safety hazard it causes by leaving it in. Do you mean getting so close to my truck that you hit it with your vehicle? Tough darts,  Nancy.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, bass mechanic said:

OP if you had got the standard size bed, and turn the handle bars so the tire sits in the front corner of the bed, slide the rear wheels together in the center of the tail gate you can close the tailgate with 2 bikes in the bed.

i am upgrading to the HD which has 4" longer bed length. i am fairly certain you can fit 3 bikes in and close the gate. if not they make a tail gate extender that holds the gate open a couple inches at the top. works great. i can fit a full sice 4 wheeler and my dirtbike in the bed with this device.

your truck is already purchased, but may be worth looking into if you ever replace it in the future.

 

sometimes i wish it was easy to remove the front wheel on a dirt bike and clamp the forks into a holder like a bicycle. that would make securing dirt bikes a snap.

Personally, I just load the bikes (1 or 2) in straight and put all the gear, etc in between them and along the sides; ramps, gas cans, boots, gear bags etc. I then run a ratchet strap between the rear lower tiedowns, thru each rear wheel & around the ramps, and use the loose end to secure any items (if needed). 
I have a Back Rack on my truck and drilled holes in the bed mounts for tie down points. I use these for the front of the bikes, as they work waaaay better than the stock tiedown points in the box.

In 13 yrs have never lost anything, nor worried about it, headed to or from the riding area. Granted, I usually don't have to go down much in the way of rough service roads to get to the trailhead, but do have lots of highway. 
On some roads, there is a big advantage to having the tailgate down........... ?

If there's 3 bikes, I use my enclosed cargo trailer.

Posted (edited)

Maybe GM can save us from ourselves by adding the power-lift option to the MPT and adding a proximity sensor that will detect any obstruction, such as a hitch, and halt the tailgate from opening any further? Modern vehicles have all kinds of nanny doodads to protect us from our inattentiveness, so something like this shouldn't be difficult. Sure beats removing the hitch. :rolleyes:

 

I do agree that providing the ability to lock the load stop in the extended position would be a no-brainer. That omission was just ridiculous.

Edited by UncleDave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...