Jump to content

2015 Sierra Lifters went out TWICE! Now they won’t warranty


Recommended Posts

Posted
12 minutes ago, O Town Denali said:

Mine cost $2063.34 Total under warranty.  It was a 6.2.  Parts $818.76 Labor $1244.58

 

Oil changed every 7K.  I drive 30K miles/year

 

I picked it up when ready and drove to the GMC dealer and traded it in.

 

Lifters.pdf

Ya the first time the first dealer repairs it cost $2500 with labor and all . So I asked why they are $3200 . Said labor is $120 here and only $80 over there . Smh . But he says it comes with a 2 year warranty now . I’ve always had good luck with my gmc . But **** this truck . I’ll probably do the same 

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
Never have towed with it 
and yes I did the cylinder deactivate on it after reading up on lifters going on the first time . 
I’m running a leveling kit on 33s same stock rims 
oil changes done every 2500-3k miles . Full synthetic 
i baby this truck ! 


Within what mileage did you actually do the AFM deactivation?


Sent from above
Posted


I’ve said it time and time again, call your local media station and let them know everything that’s been going on, dealership and GM will fold rather than having bad publicity.


Sent from above
This^^^ sorry to say but it is your best bet financially.
Posted
Yeah, I know some don't but his first failure WAS covered, now suddenly they are not. I know or suspect he is past warranty, but MOST times if you have a repeat failure after a warranty repair they will at least work with you. Obviously his dealer isn't and so far GM is not either. It is what it is but lifters at some point fell under the PT warranty. Extended is a crap shoot IMO and yes I have one.

I’ve had many extended warranty’s. I’ve only had three total extended warranty repairs. Those three more than paid for all my extended warranty’s, a V-10 Ram engine was one. A bad injector o -ring, a lean out blown piston, past normal warranty. One decline. An 80$ part for anti lock brakes. A Ford backed extended. I went to that Ford dealer for 10 years with 5 GM trucks and 3 non Ford cars to show them what the lost. I also canceled a T-bird I had on order. That 80$ part cost them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, pickmeup said:

If it were me I would have it towed from that dealership and here is why. They repaired under warranty and 20,000 miles later problems on same bank again. A good dealer would supply the labor and try to get GM to foot some parts . If GM won't he could offer parts for repair to you at a discount off list price. In realty his tech cost him probably 30 or so per hour . Lets say 30 x12 hr. for example . For 400dollars of his labor and you buying parts worst case it could still be a win win for both. Seems like dealer is throwing the baby out with the bath water and telling you tough sh.t. 

Ya my situation forced me to keep it there . The town only had this gmc/Chevy dealer and the closest one to them was 2hours away . I was hoping I could least get parts paid or something . Even labor . I’m still waiting on a call back from gmc ! I’m picking the truck up this morning . Paying the $3200 . And hoping gmc makes it right and least covers something 

Posted
9 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Within what mileage did you actually do the AFM deactivation?


Sent from above

 

Right after the first time it did it . Not 100% sure on miles but it’s been little over a year since I did it 

Posted
Right after the first time it did it . Not 100% sure on miles but it’s been little over a year since I did it 


Reason I’m asking is that it must have been near failing before you deactivated the AFM. It’s a 15 meaning it took you a few years till you did it which is what I’ve been noticing. It’s been a rather long commitment GM’s been having to deal with.


Sent from above
Posted
Never have towed with it 
and yes I did the cylinder deactivate on it after reading up on lifters going on the first time . 
I’m running a leveling kit on 33s same stock rims 
oil changes done every 2500-3k miles . Full synthetic 
i baby this truck ! 

What product did you use to turn cylinder deactivation off?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted
22 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Reason I’m asking is that it must have been near failing before you deactivated the AFM. It’s a 15 meaning it took you a few years till you did it which is what I’ve been noticing. It’s been a rather long commitment GM’s been having to deal with.


Sent from above

 

 

37 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Dude it will fail again. Trade that turd in

Thing that makes me even more mad is the fact I only owe like $3800 on this turd ! Smh !! 

7FA686F5-1ADC-4BC6-99B0-6C2A161C22FE.jpeg

Posted
Diablo tuner . Also tuned by diablew . 

Did they have anything to say about that in regards to your claim?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
26 minutes ago, Jonathan Ochoa said:

 

Thing that makes me even more mad is the fact I only owe like $3800 on this turd ! Smh !! 

7FA686F5-1ADC-4BC6-99B0-6C2A161C22FE.jpeg

Well you’ll be good for two more years now.  Keep it for 23 months and then decide what to do.  If I wanted to keep the truck, at that point I’d look into a new engine or a major rebuild. It would still be cost effective versus buying a new truck..

Posted
Thing that makes me even more mad is the fact I only owe like $3800 on this turd ! Smh !! 
7FA686F5-1ADC-4BC6-99B0-6C2A161C22FE.thumb.jpeg.e3d9efa93edad43b5ba8d96e89af33aa.jpeg


Did they mention anything about your tune as being the reason for denying warranty and did you disable it prior to bringing it to service?? Questions every mod enthusiast wants to know.


Sent from above
Posted

You have a really nice looking truck. Keep it for now and pay it off. You have 24 months of warranty to decide what you want to do. You could also consider an extended warranty if you decide to keep it. Several threads on how to get the best deal on the warranty.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...