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Posted

Does anyone want to buy my Subthump single 10" box? Never installed it since my rear window leaked and got bought back.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/13/2019 at 9:12 AM, white94rx said:

Does anyone want to buy my Subthump single 10" box? Never installed it since my rear window leaked and got bought back.

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I’m interested if you still have it. I have a single kicker cvt 10” I’m looking to install. How much shipped to 17026 PA?

Posted

Yeah I've still got it. I paid $175 for the box, wiring adapter, and shipping. The wiring was $45, so that leaves $135 for the box and shipping, is what I paid for it. I'd let it go for $120 shipped if you think that's fair. Let me know. You can private message me if you prefer. Thanks for the interest. It's been sitting in the box since I received it. I'd love for it to go to a fellow board member. And if I sell it, then I can buy one that fits my 2500.

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  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

How hard or what technique did you use to get the plug out? I hate to pull on the wires but there's not much real estate to pull on otherwise. It looks like everyone has broken part of plug trying to get it out. Thanks in advance for your help. 

Posted

Ok so I have everything up and running since my last post, but I have a minor problem. I have the amp installed with no remote power. The amp has an auto sensing option for powering on. Ive used this just fine on other amps in other vehicles. Some time but not always when I come up to a red light and the engine shuts down the amp turns off too then right back on when the engine fires back up.

 

Any suggestions on where I can easily run my remote power wire to.

Posted

BirdDog

 

Its a real pain to get them out. There is a little tabs you need to pull down on first and be careful because I did brake it. Then you have a little lever to push down on and it should come out.  

2019-08-20_14h43_10.jpg.1c1cab3d211a18f33c22ce38c4bf1248.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Rfordhamjr said:

Ok so I have everything up and running since my last post, but I have a minor problem. I have the amp installed with no remote power. The amp has an auto sensing option for powering on. Ive used this just fine on other amps in other vehicles. Some time but not always when I come up to a red light and the engine shuts down the amp turns off too then right back on when the engine fires back up.

 

Any suggestions on where I can easily run my remote power wire to.

There is a fuse in the passenger fuse box that has a blade tap for this exact thing.  Look in the fuse box on the front passenger side and there will be one in there for standby power.  It is open already, no need to splice or jam something in anywhere.  Just put a blade on your blue remote wire and plug it in.  Works fine with auto stop start and everything.  This is where I am tapped in at.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I was looking for a location to tap into for the remote wire but I found it. 

Edited by Hendog78
Found an answer to what I was asking.
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Just to update all of you on my subwoofer saga. I had my setup working for a little while but no matter what I did I could not get the bass to volume ratio match down. It was either too much or too little. Too tingy or high pitched with the filter level or gain was too low and half volume is good but a notch over half the sub sounded like crap. Recently I started having an issue that I can only explain as intermittent open short protection where my sub would cut out at lower volumes. It would sometimes cut out around half volume. I thought I had some loose connections so I opened everythjng up and ohmed wires and checked voltage and found no issues. I tried playing with the gain, changing the stereo to mono wire config, upped the bass in the radio, the filter, and damn near anything else. I just could not get my sub to respond correctly.

 

Well I did some more research and many threads suggested line out converters but I didn't feel like spending $60+ on such a simple setup. I came across the Kicker KISLOC 2-channel speaker level to rca line out converters.

 

Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OInVDbV8P7B85

 

It runs in line with your speaker level input and converts it to rca. It has changed everything. This little thing works like a champ. I only hooked up one channel on it and ran the associated rca for that channel since I have a 10 inch dual 4-ohm sub setup. The problem I was having, according to research, was that the truck or my amp was detecting a open circuit and going into protect mode. It has something to do with the resistance on the speaker wire. This little adapter puts that resistance on the truck side and output the right frequency and voltage on the amp side. If you are having trouble with sound quality, cut outs, and don't want to spend time and money on a normal line out setup then get this thing. It just works.

 

Also one of these days I will stop being lazy and take a picture of where I tapped in my remote switch for my amp in the passenger compartment fuse box. Let me know if you have questions.

 

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