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Posted
2 hours ago, Texcl2 said:

I’ve started my truck down to -30f (actual temps) with no funny noises like in the video, but not unusual for brand new properly functioning vehicles to make weird noises in those temps. Only way to know for sure is to take it in I suppose. It’s been a lot warmer this year so only got down to -30f one morning so far -10 to -20 is pretty common though. lately it’s been in the 20’s and 30’s,  almost t-shirt  weather! Lol

Not sure where you are located but -18F coldest we have recorded this year nearby. Southern CO mountains. 

Posted

I live in the coldest part of ND, we get AK  cold. Weeks on end of sub-zero weather in a shot. the coldest recorded temperature here was -60f but the coldest I can recall personally was -46f. You want to talk about some crazy vehicle noises. We get down in the -30’s every year. 

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Posted
17 minutes ago, Texcl2 said:

I live in the coldest part of ND, we get AK  cold. Weeks on end of sub-zero weather in a shot. the coldest recorded temperature here was -60f but the coldest I can recall personally was -46f. You want to talk about some crazy vehicle noises. We get down in the -30’s every year. 

That sounds Yukon like!! 

Posted

TFL does great videos, just wish they didn’t make it feel so rushed. Probably a media day with limited time. Also didn’t see any intake valves shown, unless I missed it…Have to watch it again. 

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Texcl2 said:

Great, video, I’d like to know how many miles they simulated on the torn down engine. 

GM guy didn't say but the next video the TFL guy said 150,000 miles is the industry standard on all engines. Still it is a hell of a test, the GM guy said the engine was tested from idle to full throttle max torque up and down for 2 weeks 24hrs a day.

Edited by Silverado4x4
  • Like 2
Posted

Tear down mic'd against oil analysis is what we based our maintenance/service and oil drain intervals against at Cummins.

 

This GM with assistant project engineer commenting on  tear down on a dynoed test engine is impressive running DEXOS1 GEN 3 oils most likely since that is the recommendation as of this year.  

 

Thanks for sharing this @newdude  

 

One note that may apply to oddly disappearing oil on dipstick tests with engine sitting after at least 4 hours per manual recommendation...... is that the coolant system works hard to cool what needs to be cooled and not overcooling which would hide engine oil potentially on shutdown in heat exchangers.  At -27F I tested the heater on cold start last year.   

 

I have checked our 25,500 mile total L3B a few days ago with over 4000 miles on the Havoline Pro Rs 5w30 and its full. This after seeing about a 1/8 down test a few weeks ago. 

 

I drove tuesday in the worst snow and wind with temps -19 most of the 200 mile round trip to a needed Dr visit. I crossed La Veta pass over 9400' doing 60 mph in Auto drive mode with some 4WD on route to get out of drifts that exceeded 24".  

Will check the oil today to see where I stand.  I averaged 19.3 mpg using Mavrik E15 min 86 octane with Amsoil UCL every other tank and started using Amsoil PI every 4000 miles.  The carbon I saw above the iron compression ring on the teardown above  in the video tells me we need to keep the pistons and injectors clean and our regular fuels ain't gonna do that.  Engine oil ain't gonna correct that deposit at the compression ring and above on piston. 

 

Impressive really and the valve train components look good too but you have to stop screen and focus on the parts.  I kept wanting the Russian engineer to ask the GM guy about how much better this AFM is vs the V8's that seem to fall out every day here on GM-Trucks. 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, Texcl2 said:

150k is further than I expected, seems like it might end up being a durable engine.

 

Managing expectations is what OEM's do for a living. Under promise, over deliver. Everyone gets a warm fuzzy. No where close to the truth......

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, customboss said:

Tear down mic'd against oil analysis is what we based our maintenance/service and oil drain intervals against at Cummins.

 

This GM with assistant project engineer commenting on  tear down on a dynoed test engine is impressive running DEXOS1 GEN 3 oils most likely since that is the recommendation as of this year.  

 

Thanks for sharing this @newdude  

 

One note that may apply to oddly disappearing oil on dipstick tests with engine sitting after at least 4 hours per manual recommendation...... is that the coolant system works hard to cool what needs to be cooled and not overcooling which would hide engine oil potentially on shutdown in heat exchangers.  At -27F I tested the heater on cold start last year.   

 

I have checked our 25,500 mile total L3B a few days ago with over 4000 miles on the Havoline Pro Rs 5w30 and its full. This after seeing about a 1/8 down test a few weeks ago. 

 

I drove tuesday in the worst snow and wind with temps -19 most of the 200 mile round trip to a needed Dr visit. I crossed La Veta pass over 9400' doing 60 mph in Auto drive mode with some 4WD on route to get out of drifts that exceeded 24".  

Will check the oil today to see where I stand.  I averaged 19.3 mpg using Mavrik E15 min 86 octane with Amsoil UCL every other tank and started using Amsoil PI every 4000 miles.  The carbon I saw above the iron compression ring on the teardown above  in the video tells me we need to keep the pistons and injectors clean and our regular fuels ain't gonna do that.  Engine oil ain't gonna correct that deposit at the compression ring and above on piston. 

 

Impressive really and the valve train components look good too but you have to stop screen and focus on the parts.  I kept wanting the Russian engineer to ask the GM guy about how much better this AFM is vs the V8's that seem to fall out every day here on GM-Trucks. 

 

 

 

Have you settled on a particular oil or plan to continue exploring others?  I’m at about 15xx miles now and thinking I’ll change the oil soon and run that until I go get my free one time dealer oil change. 

  • Like 1
Posted
49 minutes ago, 622Trailboss said:

Have you settled on a particular oil or plan to continue exploring others?  I’m at about 15xx miles now and thinking I’ll change the oil soon and run that until I go get my free one time dealer oil change. 

622 I just came back in from checking the oil and it was full. 45% life remaining on the GM OLM or algorthimic counter with maybe 4300 miles on the drain.

 

The Havoline Pro Rs 5w30 hasn't been analyzed YET.  If it can perform/test at the Amsoil Signature Series level of LOW wear I achieved in the 5th oil analysis I may continue to run it.  Its gonna be hard to beat Amsoil Signature Series wear control.  My theory of higher sulfated ash levels may be playing out the way I suspected but I don't know FOR SURE yet.  

From testing for years and having a pretty good idea of what the L3B does in my application and environs ANY good real synthetic especially Dexos1 GEN 3 lubricant is going to do well. 

 

Amsoil, Redline, RLI BioSynXtra or a oil like Havoline Pro Rs ( thats using Bio base oils so it cleans) will do well.  One trick might be to  use a 0w30 vs the 5w30. Both are allowed and the full syns in 0w30 might get one a bit of MPG bump.  In other words using a full synthetic grp IV or higher base oil to get that 0w rating vs pour point additives that will wear out over time.  

 

My air filter is over used and its been really cold so those may leverage against the Havoline. One thing I like about Amsoil and RLI for that matter  is even in a non optimized tune level in an engine they still protect. The real key is to use a good fuel, keep a clean air filter and keep DI injectors clean that will do more than oil chemistry in this engine.  This engine likes E15 and its cheaper than regular E10 in most markets that aren't high altitude so that its rated 86 avg octane vs 87 in most of the US.  

 

If you prefer Exxon Mobil and can find their new Mobil FULL SYN Dexos1 GEN 3 formula that may be a sleeper that you don't pay for the Mobil1 brand upcharge.  I found it here at our local Dollar General for $6/qt and probably could get it on sale at lower cost.   Hope that provides my direction and some options for you and others reading. 

 

1219972698_unit580test5.png.57e5c1d5a8566b939ed4c89337eb8a70.png

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, customboss said:

In other words using a full synthetic grp IV or higher base oil to get that 0w rating vs pour point additives that will wear out over time.  

 

There ya go! 

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Posted (edited)

I haven’t noticed any mpg gains with my trailboss using M1 0w-30 but the winter is a bad time to test for that since we let the vehicle warm up a long while and have to use 4x4 ect…. I do suspect my engine is now fully broken in as I haven’t had any oil usage over the last several oil changes. I have been changing the oil at 3k miles since I’m using 0w-30 and it’s been cold and I have been short tripping it. I know there’s fuel dilution, I can smell it. I’ve settled on Mobil 1 0w-30 in the winter and m1 ep 5w-30 the rest of the year. 

Edited by Texcl2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 hours ago, customboss said:

622 I just came back in from checking the oil and it was full. 45% life remaining on the GM OLM or algorthimic counter with maybe 4300 miles on the drain.

 

The Havoline Pro Rs 5w30 hasn't been analyzed YET.  If it can perform/test at the Amsoil Signature Series level of LOW wear I achieved in the 5th oil analysis I may continue to run it.  Its gonna be hard to beat Amsoil Signature Series wear control.  My theory of higher sulfated ash levels may be playing out the way I suspected but I don't know FOR SURE yet.  

From testing for years and having a pretty good idea of what the L3B does in my application and environs ANY good real synthetic especially Dexos1 GEN 3 lubricant is going to do well. 

 

Amsoil, Redline, RLI BioSynXtra or a oil like Havoline Pro Rs ( thats using Bio base oils so it cleans) will do well.  One trick might be to  use a 0w30 vs the 5w30. Both are allowed and the full syns in 0w30 might get one a bit of MPG bump.  In other words using a full synthetic grp IV or higher base oil to get that 0w rating vs pour point additives that will wear out over time.  

 

My air filter is over used and its been really cold so those may leverage against the Havoline. One thing I like about Amsoil and RLI for that matter  is even in a non optimized tune level in an engine they still protect. The real key is to use a good fuel, keep a clean air filter and keep DI injectors clean that will do more than oil chemistry in this engine.  This engine likes E15 and its cheaper than regular E10 in most markets that aren't high altitude so that its rated 86 avg octane vs 87 in most of the US.  

 

If you prefer Exxon Mobil and can find their new Mobil FULL SYN Dexos1 GEN 3 formula that may be a sleeper that you don't pay for the Mobil1 brand upcharge.  I found it here at our local Dollar General for $6/qt and probably could get it on sale at lower cost.   Hope that provides my direction and some options for you and others reading. 

 

1219972698_unit580test5.png.57e5c1d5a8566b939ed4c89337eb8a70.png

 

 

 

 

Appreciate you taking the time to share this level of detailed information 

  • Thanks 1

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