Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 4/8/2020 at 3:47 PM, Vasa1 said:

Hey there. Any issues with rubbing with that setup? I want to do the exact thing.   I see ur in a parkade. No clearance issues? What type of leveling kit did u use?

 

Edited by Vasa1
Posted
On 4/16/2020 at 1:08 AM, ausomecasey said:

1” level with non-LT 275/60r20 ridge grappler 

6D6F107A-D11A-4490-8478-01DA9E48C046.jpeg

8452BB5A-D546-4DA1-AB77-5911DFC91915.jpeg
 

Edit: originally specified wrong tire size, sorry!

Where did you find a 1" level? I have a 2020 custom 4x4 now and it only has a 1.4" rake so I'm scared of the pro comp 1.5" level as I don't want to reverse rake.

Posted
Where did you find a 1" level? I have a 2020 custom 4x4 now and it only has a 1.4" rake so I'm scared of the pro comp 1.5" level as I don't want to reverse rake.

Motofab makes a 1” lower strut spacer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
5 hours ago, 2019Custom said:

Where did you find a 1" level? I have a 2020 custom 4x4 now and it only has a 1.4" rake so I'm scared of the pro comp 1.5" level as I don't want to reverse rake.

Mine is the Motofab 1” level. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017WN0G1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zxHMEbMCW9R90


Supreme Suspensions also makes a 1” level,  but you have to call them. See my screenshot for their number...Only thing about supreme suspensions...their 1” is either silver or black, and they weren’t sure which color they had in stock...

 

28A849AF-7185-498F-8156-808719A13764.jpeg

Posted
On 4/16/2020 at 11:01 PM, ausomecasey said:

Thanks! Here you go...let me know if you want any more...compared to LT version, you can see the tread depth is a little less, and the side wall is a little less aggressive. But they are still a nice upgrade from stock tires. They basically ride like the stock tires, and they only weigh a few pounds more than the stock tires. Only minor negative thing when compared stock tires...these tires have a little hum. My wife doesn’t notice it, but I do. Not bad though, just more than stock. Overall very pleased with them...

6A9FF5BD-8D7F-4B31-B1CF-44D775C72C83.jpeg

Thanks for the pic and the clarification. I didn’t think they made that size but was getting very excited. Even though it’s the same size as the factory Goodyear’s they look a lot more beefy.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Ritchie Brown said:

Thanks for the pic and the clarification. I didn’t think they made that size but was getting very excited. Even though it’s the same size as the factory Goodyear’s they look a lot more beefy.

Haha, yea, I would love a ridge grappler non-LT version of the 285/60r20 or 275/65r20. They make the Terra grappler in a non-LT 275/65r20...if I ever add the trailboss lift, I might try those Terra grapplers just to have a little larger tire since it would be lifted more...

Edited by ausomecasey
Posted
On 4/8/2020 at 8:07 PM, brianc636 said:


I’ve been thinking about this size of tire but wasn’t sure how bad it would rub with my 1.5” level. Got pictures of your mud flap trimming?

Tire and wheel Combo look great on that truck.

Here's mine fella's. 20' AT4 w/duramax. 

2 in RC level kit. Falken AT- 295/60. Fuel Rebel 20" wheel. Minor rub on the felt liner at full lock. Don't notice it enough to even think about switching!! Haha. Stance and ride is great imo. RC level kit didnt mess with factory AT4 ride either. 

20200417_163433.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

First photo (side view truck has the 2 inch Readylift) since been removed cause the boot contacted the bottom part of the strut. Added Rough country 2 inch leveling struts and the Readylift was removed. Plenty of cv axle clearance now  . 20x9.5 on 285/60/r20. It’s my vets truck. He said no rubbing and rides a lot better than factory. D2A65615-3C89-4782-86F7-4A8D688F9E79.thumb.jpeg.bd8df8bc931a278ae34cbc782ea8dd1c.jpeg

916ABD70-1348-4090-8DAD-8B99650F416D.jpeg

C6A42BEA-ABEB-48C0-AD78-FC34FFAB4A34.jpeg

A325F857-486E-478D-A983-5BD65CA8356B.jpeg

Posted
14 hours ago, JSW74 said:

First photo (side view truck has the 2 inch Readylift) since been removed cause the boot contacted the bottom part of the strut. Added Rough country 2 inch leveling struts and the Readylift was removed. Plenty of cv axle clearance now  . 20x9.5 on 285/60/r20. It’s my vets truck. He said no rubbing and rides a lot better than factory. D2A65615-3C89-4782-86F7-4A8D688F9E79.thumb.jpeg.bd8df8bc931a278ae34cbc782ea8dd1c.jpeg

916ABD70-1348-4090-8DAD-8B99650F416D.jpeg

C6A42BEA-ABEB-48C0-AD78-FC34FFAB4A34.jpeg

A325F857-486E-478D-A983-5BD65CA8356B.jpeg

Looks great! How’s the angle of the upper ball joint without the RL upper arm? I’m was just about to get the RL kit when I started reading the 4 wheel high issue. We use that all the time in MI.

Posted (edited)
On 4/16/2020 at 1:24 PM, woychc said:

260ff8d9cfb6b8ff7ed8715012ee6dcd.jpg

1.5” motofab level kit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really like the look of your truck. My dealer installed a 2” rough country and my X31 is now sitting nose high.. Did you have any issues with the Motofab 1.5 rubbing like others have talked about? I’m even thinking about going to a 1”. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Matt4704
Posted
Really like the look of your truck. My dealer installed a 2” rough country and my X31 is now sitting nose high.. Did you have any issues with the Motofab 1.5 rubbing like others have talked about? I’m even thinking about going to a 1”. 
 
 
 
 
E080DA5C-038D-4766-AE06-E7AF0CCB3123.thumb.jpeg.49d5f04e28c47695c63544b0bb8ae1e7.jpeg

No issues yet, I only installed it a few days ago. Lots of room, won’t rub unless you do some serious off-roading.
I added air bags & an on-board compressor, it brought the rear up 3/4” or so since these pics. Little bit of rake, I like the look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, Ben Douglas said:

Here's mine fella's. 20' AT4 w/duramax. 

2 in RC level kit. Falken AT- 295/60. Fuel Rebel 20" wheel. Minor rub on the felt liner at full lock. Don't notice it enough to even think about switching!! Haha. Stance and ride is great imo. RC level kit didnt mess with factory AT4 ride either. 

20200417_163433.jpg

How is the RC level on the already lifted truck? How’s the upper ball joint without the new UCA’s? Can’t decide between that or the RL with UCAs

Posted
10 hours ago, Gdmatson said:

Looks great! How’s the angle of the upper ball joint without the RL upper arm? I’m was just about to get the RL kit when I started reading the 4 wheel high issue. We use that all the time in MI.

Angles are good on it! I don’t have any photos to show though. 

Posted

Yeah those lower strut spacers are not worth it with the new trucks. Why take a chance. That's why Rough county got rid of them. Up date on the Rough county leveling struts. They did seem to settle some after a couple of weeks . Was a full 2 inch lift.  Maybe dropped a 1/4 inch to 3/8. So a 1.625  to 1.75 off lift. Love they way the ride. Have about 3500 miles with them now. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 828 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...