Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi people!!! I am little new in this truck world, I love my Silverado but I hate no to have all the functionality’s in the radio, I actually have a Silverado 2014 wt but I would like to update my radio, I see in a several pages selling the 7 or 8 inch screen, but I know this is not the only thing I have to change to make it work. I need your help please, what’s is the right way to do it with out change for an aftermarket radio, I can get the modules but anyway I don’t know if this really work. Thxs in advance!!!! 

Posted
12 hours ago, Danygo said:

Hi people!!! I am little new in this truck world, I love my Silverado but I hate no to have all the functionality’s in the radio, I actually have a Silverado 2014 wt but I would like to update my radio, I see in a several pages selling the 7 or 8 inch screen, but I know this is not the only thing I have to change to make it work. I need your help please, what’s is the right way to do it with out change for an aftermarket radio, I can get the modules but anyway I don’t know if this really work. Thxs in advance!!!! 

Will be following this thread. My W/T probably has the same base level radio. Sorry for the crappy pic.

704AA16B-8B74-4E02-9FC7-F4FD694E368F.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

you can get the modules, but that wont help you. the modules have to be programmed with your vin number and gm wont do it. you have to contact whitesautomotiveserices or coastal flash. they will explain what you need and how to do it

  • Like 1
Posted

Welcome to this forum and to the world of trucks.  A sound system upgrade will enhance your truck but it apparently is not simple  to do an oem upgrade.  I would go to a store that specializes in audio installations and get a price on a aftermarket unit with a 7 or 8 inch screen.  It will look like it belongs and can be equipped with all of the features you are missing.  It will save you money, frustration and uncertainty.  A proper installation will make your new sound system look like it was meant for your truck!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

You could go all out

 

-denali lcd cluster, oem 8” screen, amp, speakers

 

probably looking at $2500-$3k diy. (Keep in mind how much nicer this would make your interior, it’s a lot of money but you get a lot in return
 

Or

 

just keep it simple, by some speakers and a 2 or 4 channel amp and call it a day

$500ish if you diy

 

or 

 

somewhere in the middle and buy an 8” or larger aftermarket screen with backup camera and sound system

$1500ish

 

 

Edited by truckguy82
  • Like 2
Posted
8 hours ago, Donstar said:

Welcome to this forum and to the world of trucks.  A sound system upgrade will enhance your truck but it apparently is not simple  to do an oem upgrade.  I would go to a store that specializes in audio installations and get a price on a aftermarket unit with a 7 or 8 inch screen.  It will look like it belongs and can be equipped with all of the features you are missing.  It will save you money, frustration and uncertainty.  A proper installation will make your new sound system look like it was meant for your truck!

Thxs for all the answers!!! From now I think I just will enjoy this radio! ? one person is selling me the modules for $200 but I’m not sure, it’s very complicated to make it work. That was my concerns. Now I have cleared the steps, I’ll see what’s the best way to do it. Thxs very much!!! 

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 6/20/2020 at 6:35 PM, Danygo said:

Thxs for all the answers!!! From now I think I just will enjoy this radio! ? one person is selling me the modules for $200 but I’m not sure, it’s very complicated to make it work. That was my concerns. Now I have cleared the steps, I’ll see what’s the best way to do it. Thxs very much!!! 

*************Radio and HMI sold. Cluster was returned to vendor on eBay.*************

Not to make you change your mind, but, it could be done less than what was mentioned above. 
 

I have a radio and HMI 2.5 coming from White Auto and Media Services. I bought those from them and we’re programmed, but my truck got hit and I don’t need them any longer. They charge $600 for those with programming and just $100 for programming. If you’re interested, I’d sell them to you for half price, $300. I also had bought a Denali cluster, but that’s only if you’re really wanting the full upgrade. Let me know. I just need to sell them and want to make sure they go to someone looking to do what they’ve got their mind set on like I did. 

Edited by skyline2413
Posted (edited)

i wonder if it would be cheaper to upgrade to the Alpine Chevy radio instead of going GM

 

i would do speakers and an amp, and velcro an Ipad to the dash  link to you cell for hot spot data, maybe install a ring security camera to the bumper for back up cam to the ipad

Edited by flyingfool
Posted
Not to make you change your mind, but, it could be done less than what was mentioned above. 
 
I have a radio and HMI 2.5 coming from White Auto and Media Services. I bought those from them and we’re programmed, but my truck got hit and I don’t need them any longer. They charge $600 for those with programming and just $100 for programming. If you’re interested, I’d sell them to you for half price, $300. I also had bought a Denali cluster, but that’s only if you’re really wanting the full upgrade. Let me know. I just need to sell them and want to make sure they go to someone looking to do what they’ve got their mind set on like I did. 

This would be a great option if he’s wanting OEM.

To OP- you need radio module, HMI, the screen, steering wheel (if you want volume controls).. the steering wheel can lead to the higher trim cluster (SLT or Denali). If you want the CD player you need that and I was told it has to be new not used. You would also need the harness for the radio and the XM antenna and harness. Then programming for it all through whiteaudioandmedia as mentioned above.
Posted

personally i feel the big touch screen is too intrusive on my truck,  and at night i cant stand the damn thing , so friggin bright i have to dial the dimmer down , or go into the menu to turn off screen. it's all hype dude.. just get an amp, and speakers and your fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...