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I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks. I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it.
All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it. I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me. I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced. freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings. the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash. body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago.
The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise. what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion? living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone. will either be driving to get one or having shipped. somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year. of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks. I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still. I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot. gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps. I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing. the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory. the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08. the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one. suspension parts I just say 06 on. half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise.
I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up. I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing.
sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given
As the title says, post your long travel set up with the who and why! I'm tired of not being able to find long travel builds to copy off of. Custom or bolt on, doesn't matter. Post pictures of the before and after glass sides if you got them.
If a thread like this already exists please share below or if you have a thread for your build. Hopefully this gets some serious attention for the full size community, the Toyotas get all the long travel attention.
By Noemi Perales
Hey there everyone. I'm having issues with my 2017 chevy silverado 1500. On Tuesday afternoon I parked my truck at home. And later that evening I walked up to my truck, since I was planning to grab some dinner. However, when I tried unlocking it with my fob, nothing happened. I found it strange, since that had never happened before. (I've had this used truck for 6months) and never has that happened before. So I had to insert my key to open it, and I tried to turn it on, and again nothing. Engine didn't turn on, no lights on, no dim. Nothing.
We figured maybe just the battery, so we had to jump cables, which with that it turned on. We drove over to our local auto advance to purchase a new battery, since the other one was old (used truck) and when I go to shut off my truck I turn the key, and take it out. And the engine stayed on.
We found it super strange. Only way to turn it off was disconnecting the battery. We purchased a new one, and after it was hooked the same issues.
It runs fine, but after taking out the key engine stays on. I've had diagnostics ran on it and Noone can find the solution. I believe it may be a malfunction with the remote start. Because when the truck is on (without the key) it's only the engine. Meaning it's not drivable. I can't drive it off, unless I insert the key.
I would appreciate any help I can get. Thanks in advance
By Shahmir Ahmed
Hello everyone! So Im new in the truck world good myself a chevy avalanche 04 for my 18 birthday. It had a ac issue where passenger side would blow hot air. After diagnosis I found out that the blend door actuator was bad so I tried replacing it. I had to take out the passenger side airbag to access it. It was very tight and in the removal process I broke the shaft that controls the door :,(. Now what there isn't enough space in there to just epoxy the shaft back on. Any ideas? Summer is coming up here in so cal so for now ill just bypass the heater core but for future it would be nice to have heating lol. Any help is appreciated.
So I just got a 2018 Silverado 2500 and am wondering if anyone has experienced this in there’s.
when I turn my truck off and then open and shut the door to make the radio turn off I can still hear what I can only assume to be the fan in the radio stay on. If I lock the truck it turns the fan off for a second and then it comes back on. If I push the power button on the radio it shuts off but again comes on. Anyone have any thoughts or does this happen in anyone else’s 2014-2019? It didn’t happen in my 2016 that had the same infotainment center that is the reason for my concern.
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