Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I might be late to the party but I just noticed the multi-flex tailgate available in the Silverado builder. 

8707AD33-F709-4D60-9D94-A53A7093C899.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Its not a bad priced option if you need and use the Tailgate actually. I like where GM priced this. 

Even though I really like the Ram barn doors functionality ( if you need it) for $995 its price is pretty high .  

Posted

Maybe this is hearsay or urban legend... but I have heard that the GMC (same as this one) multi-flex tailgate has issues if you have a trailer ball in the hitch receiver.... and it gets doinked....ianyone else heard this?

Posted
23 minutes ago, Swofford said:

Maybe this is hearsay or urban legend... but I have heard that the GMC (same as this one) multi-flex tailgate has issues if you have a trailer ball in the hitch receiver.... and it gets doinked....ianyone else heard this?

IF you leave hitch in receiver and open BOTH portions of the tail gate it WILL hit it. If you only open one part (just the top or the whole gate like a standard one) no problem. I always remove hitch when not in use.

  • Like 1
Posted

I would 100% pay a measly $260 for this option. I think this tailgate is one of the great things GM does way better than the other brands. 

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Swofford said:

Maybe this is hearsay or urban legend... but I have heard that the GMC (same as this one) multi-flex tailgate has issues if you have a trailer ball in the hitch receiver.... and it gets doinked....ianyone else heard this?

Yup, and have the ding in the paint to prove it.

 

Very worthwhile option for my usage. Makes getting in/out of the bed a lot easier in my case.

Posted
1 hour ago, econometrics said:

I would 100% pay a measly $260 for this option. I think this tailgate is one of the great things GM does way better than the other brands. 

Absolutely. Especially if you need it for work/plan .  $260 is a pretty darn good deal offered by GM here. .

Heck even the Ford Tailgate Step is $375 

  • Like 1
Posted

If they sold it as an accessory that would retrofit to your truck for the same price - that would be impressive.

 

Unfortunately, I don't see them ever selling these as an accessory.  Only an option to add on.

Posted

The multi pro tailgate works great in warm weather. We have had some pretty cold temps, a carwash and a bout of light freezing rain. Binding up pretty good afterwards. Today it was in the low 40' s still binding up.

Posted (edited)
On 1/12/2021 at 12:41 PM, Swofford said:

Maybe this is hearsay or urban legend... but I have heard that the GMC (same as this one) multi-flex tailgate has issues if you have a trailer ball in the hitch receiver.... and it gets doinked....ianyone else heard this?

here's a fix to that problem...... https://tailgatefix.com/

Edited by OlyMike
Posted

I wish my 2019 had this tailgate.  Stepdad uses his all the time on his Sierra. Loves it. For $260! That’s a steal. To add it to my truck now would be an arm and a leg!  

Posted
20 minutes ago, TNTSilverado said:

I wish my 2019 had this tailgate.  Stepdad uses his all the time on his Sierra. Loves it. For $260! That’s a steal. To add it to my truck now would be an arm and a leg!  

Don't wish anymore.  Just order a 21' with the option and trade or sell your 19'  Your wish comes true!   ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...