Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Purchased new truck in March. Got tired of waiting for OEM felt liners so I bought Husky ones from Amazon. Multiple irritations with those, needless to say I won't be keeping them. My local dealer called this morning and left VM. He said that GM is either slowing or stopping production altogether of the OEM felt liners. He also said that they won't get any in stock until mid-winter at earliest or possibly next spring (if ever). He offered a "hard plastic alternative" which I can only assume is the Husky. So, my question is this, if I spray CRC corrosion inhibitor (cosmoline) in there and then am diligent of washing out the wheel wells in the spring and touching up areas w/CRC again, can I get away with running my truck with no liners at all for 10+ years in Minnesota and be (relatively) rust free??

Posted

 Welcome  - The Plastic ones might be GM, (check part's Dept. )  like i had on my 2015 , before they went with felt liners . Plastic ones did a better job in winter- Snow would sly off.   Good Luck

Posted

Argument could be made that the liners actually trap gunk, grit, and salt places making it worse than no liners at all. 
 

I don’t think the purpose of the OEM liners is to inhibit corrosion. I think they are just there to quite the ride. 

Posted
3 hours ago, schindles said:

Purchased new truck in March. Got tired of waiting for OEM felt liners so I bought Husky ones from Amazon. Multiple irritations with those, needless to say I won't be keeping them. My local dealer called this morning and left VM. He said that GM is either slowing or stopping production altogether of the OEM felt liners. He also said that they won't get any in stock until mid-winter at earliest or possibly next spring (if ever). He offered a "hard plastic alternative" which I can only assume is the Husky. So, my question is this, if I spray CRC corrosion inhibitor (cosmoline) in there and then am diligent of washing out the wheel wells in the spring and touching up areas w/CRC again, can I get away with running my truck with no liners at all for 10+ years in Minnesota and be (relatively) rust free??

If I were you I wouldn't mess with liners you could do something like this in your situation.  Rust-Oleum 248657 Rubberized Undercoating Spray, 15 oz, Black - Spray Paints - Amazon.com

Posted

I read in multiple places where guys say that the rubberized stuff is actually worse than nothing at all. Thought is that over time it develops "micro" cracks and then moisture, salt, etc eat away underneath the coating while on the outside it looks ok. Then when it finally does show itself, the damage is usually so severe that the rust has eaten most of the metal.

 

I (think) I'm just gonna maybe try to go without liners. I don't go off-roading and noise isn't too bad the way it is. Maybe if I stay on top of keeping that area clean from dirt, salt, etc I'll be ok for awhile?

Posted

I would definitely install GM liners on the rear of your nice new truck. I did before they became hard to find/backordered. I ran a 2018 Silverado for about three years without them but I didn't keep it for 10 years. I have the felt liners and they work very well. I'm not sure where you are in Minnesota but I would try Luther Chev in Brooklyn Park. You could order them and use you Chevy Bucks if you haven't used them already on something else. Even plastic liners would be good if GM changes the material.

Posted

Fluid film is what you seek.  Same company has a newer product that doesn't smell like sheep as much - wool wax.

 

I had the underside of my 2018 tacoma sprayed by a local shop and when I traded it this summer there were only a few rust spots on the underside.  I live in NY so salt gets applied liberally in the winter.  You really need to re-apply ever year or two if you plan on keeping the truck long term.  I bought the kit and had a local shop with a lift apply it.  You can do it yourself but I'm past the point where laying on my back to save a few bucks is worth it to me.  Make sure to lower your spare tire carrier and spray that well including the rim of the spare.  You can probably access your front wheel arches from inside the engine bay - rears maybe the plugged holes where tie downs can get inserted might do the trick or remove rear tailights to shove the wand attachment in there.  The frame on these truck comes covered with a waxy substance already but I don't think it would hurt to hit the underside all over - especially inside the frame rails.  Just try and minimize any overspray on anything that gets hot and your brake pads.  Metal brake lines should get a good soaking.  The Fluid Film goes on wet and dries slowly.  It will attract dust and dirt but that kind of adds a layer of protection against water from blasting it off.

 

You can get a kit from amazon that includes a gallon of Fluid Film plus a sprayer with different attachments to get into tight places like rocker panels, wheel arches, etc.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Woolwax-Gallon-Undercoating-Bundle-Color/dp/B07QVH3PT8/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2RT2T6GXC36IQ&keywords=fluid+film+undercoating+kit&qid=1665624286&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjYyIiwicXNhIjoiNC41NiIsInFzcCI6IjQuNDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=fluid+film%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-9&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d977788f-1483-4f76-90a3-786e4cdc8f10

Posted

I put the husky liners on my parents 2021 Silverado, I thought they fit just fine for aftermarket liners.

 

OEM liners were on back order in August 2021 so we went with the aftermarket parts.

Posted
57 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

I put the husky liners on my parents 2021 Silverado, I thought they fit just fine for aftermarket liners.

 

OEM liners were on back order in August 2021 so we went with the aftermarket parts.

I bought online from Amazon and read mostly good but some (not so great) reviews but went with those anyways as they were $50 cheaper than buying directly from Husky. They were labeled as Husky brand, but then had four "extra" holes down by the end flaps that were unaccounted for in the directions. There was also supposed to be 14 plastic christmas trees and I only received 12 to attach them (if you add in the extra holes, I was then shorted 10). The liners were too big and I couldn't fit in wheel well without some likely major cutting and/or modifications. All of which lead me to believe that they were some cheap knock offs or I was sent the incorrect part. Thus why I didn't want them on my truck. Worst part is, there's no free shipping to return and the post office wants $120 to ship (more than I paid). So I'm stuck with some plastic if anyone wants to make me an offer lol

Posted

Head to an auto dismantler, wrecking yard, pick-n-pull, whatever you have in your area and grab a pair out of a wrecked truck.

 

Back in 2019 when my 2018 broke down for the second time my dealer put me in an loaner 2019 LT (new Body Style) without liners. Every time the tires threw up a large rock it sounded like something vital flew off and hit the truck. One time it was so bad I pulled off of the interstate and did a walk around to make sure the truck was ok. I had the truck for 10 days and never got used to it. (my 2018 had liners)

 

When I bought my 2020 LT the liners were the first dealer installed option I checked.

Posted

I had Line-X Premium applied to mine when I had the box sprayed. Had them spray over the seams. 

 

Between the box, and wheel tub above spray a lanolin based product. Blaster Surface Shield, Fluid Film, Wool Wax. Recoat once a year in the fall. 

 

Nothing gets behind it and sound proofing is very good. 

 

DSCF3008.thumb.JPG.ef72d8dc3caadd309f0a597ade29d3e8.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, schindles said:

Purchased new truck in March. Got tired of waiting for OEM felt liners so I bought Husky ones from Amazon. Multiple irritations with those, needless to say I won't be keeping them. My local dealer called this morning and left VM. He said that GM is either slowing or stopping production altogether of the OEM felt liners. He also said that they won't get any in stock until mid-winter at earliest or possibly next spring (if ever). He offered a "hard plastic alternative" which I can only assume is the Husky. So, my question is this, if I spray CRC corrosion inhibitor (cosmoline) in there and then am diligent of washing out the wheel wells in the spring and touching up areas w/CRC again, can I get away with running my truck with no liners at all for 10+ years in Minnesota and be (relatively) rust free??

I don't use any but I live in Colorado where there is no salt used.  I just clean it up good when I get to town 40 miles away.  I don't miss rust from my Indiana days. 

Posted

Depending on the undercoating or bedliner it may void GM's rust through warranty. I was warned of that when I declined their "protection package" and said I had my own protection I was going to spray on. I'm using PB Blaster surface shield. I put the Husky liners on mine shortly after I got it. They fit fine. They were a little tricky to get into place above the wheel well lip but fit fine and I had all the fasteners needed when I got mine. I HATE the factory felt crap and would love to replace the fronts with plastic if I could find it. The felt holds salt and dirt in and I've only driven it one winter so far!

Posted

Just a FYI. The GM rust warranty is a joke. When I told the sales guy that I was going to have someone spray the underside with cosmoline for me, he said that it would void the warranty. He then followed by saying that even if I didn’t do that, GM voids the warranty as soon as you leave the lot if you live in any state that uses chemicals to de-ice the road so I wouldn’t have a warranty either way. I couldn’t believe it, but sure enough, look at your warranty papers. Only in a handful of states will they stand by it. Arizona stands out in my mind but there were like 10 or so. The rest of us are screwed either way. Crazy

  • Sad 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
    • I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.   
    • I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...