GMT800 Talk, chime in

[white1500]

Same here. I think we got to freezing a couple of times and have gotten rain twice or so since December. I didn't even feel winter

[chupe442]

Snowed last week in the Big O...

[SarahsGMC]

So What year gmt-800 do you have? 2006

 

What motor/trans? 5.3L vortec/upgraded 4l60e

 

What have you had to fix? wheel speed sensors, inner tie rods, wheel bearing, scratches in paint, balljoints, rebuild trans, exhaust

 

What do you still need to fix? gauge/dash lights, repaint fenders, fix flaking under fender flares, repaint rockers, new tail lights, upgrade gears/tune, new bushings up front, shocks.

 

How many miles do you got on the clock? 132,000

 

 

 

sent from my truck in a field

[absinthminded]

So my truck died (reduced engine power) on the way to my son's 5th birthday party. I drove it to the Dealership and had them quote me on some repairs.

It needed:

a throttle body rewire

fuel filter and new line (rusted)

new drivers upper control arm

inner and outer tie rods both sides

front axle seals

evap solenoid on the gas tank

Any guesses as to the estimate?

179,XXX miles

.

[gmtech4]

So my truck died (reduced engine power) on the way to my son's 5th birthday party. I drove it to the Dealership and had them quote me on some repairs.

It needed:

a throttle body rewire

fuel filter and new line (rusted)

new drivers upper control arm

inner and outer tie rods both sides

front axle seals

evap solenoid on the gas tank

Any guesses as to the estimate?

179,XXX miles

.

ya mean they didnt have that question answered before ya left ?

 

every shop is different $/hr so next question ,,,,,,anyone ? ,thx for playin lol

[txab]

[zach1990]

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

[white1500]

So my truck died (reduced engine power) on the way to my son's 5th birthday party. I drove it to the Dealership and had them quote me on some repairs.

It needed:

a throttle body rewire

fuel filter and new line (rusted)

new drivers upper control arm

inner and outer tie rods both sides

front axle seals

evap solenoid on the gas tank

Any guesses as to the estimate?

179,XXX miles

.

Pretty absent minded of you to consider a dealer for a truck with that mileage... ;)

 

But if you have $$$$ to burn then go for it!

[absinthminded]

I didnt have money to burn but I thought I needed my truck back on the road asap and they could get to work right away.

$2400 ISH!

I stopped them at $850...

They did the TB rewire, the fuel filter and line, the evap and oil and tire rotation.

I priced out Moog tie rods and upper control arm. Once I watched a vid on how to do it I went and got my truck back from the dealer.

They all went on pretty easy. Cam bolts are a pain in the ass.

Now I need to have it alinged and do the axle seals.

What brand of seals do you all recomend?? I've done them once before and I think I got napa junk. They are leaking again...

[00Silverado4x4]

If you have replaced tie rods and ball joints I would definitely get your alignment checked to make sure you good to go. As far as the seals, I just used the National brand and haven't had any issues as of yet.

[servantsalesmen]

My turn:2000 Suburban and 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD

 

The suburban has been unstoppable.. until now. It has just over 200,000 miles on it and has has ita share of problems but nothing major. Recently I picked up on a noise from the motor (sister was driving) and turns out that it's coming off the crank area. I parked it and have yet to mess with it but I suspect it is a bad oil pump, broken crank or bearing. Hoping to take it apart and learn about motor building!

 

The 2004 is a heap. My Dad ordered it custom from the factory in 2003. It is an SLT extended cad, long bed. It has 4.1 rear gears and the 6.0 liter motor. You name it, it has gone wrong.

 

The brake lines all rusted through and ruptured (while sister was driving). I replaced them with stainless lines and fittings. On top of that I replaced all four calipers (bleeder screws were frozen) and did rotors and pads.

 

On the unfinished list I have...

The doors leak and seat heater controls come on when they please, noisy lifters, rusting fuel lines (badly rusted too),the spare tire safety mechanism rusted and frooze and none of the gauges work.

 

On top of that there are things that cosmetically have gone wrong. The wheels all have peeling clear coat and pitting, the frame is rusting like no tomorrow, the grill chrome is destroyed, the lights are yellowed and the badging is fading.

 

This truck is an embarrassment to GM. I have never seen a final product put together so poorly. After this beast that gets 11 MPG, my next truck will be a FORD.GM just has not shown that they can make a good product. But for now I am stuck with the beast.

[servantsalesmen]

Oh and I forgot to mention.... the beast is 10 years old and has only 86,000 miles on it...

[02suburbanZ71]

My turn:2000 Suburban and 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD

 

The suburban has been unstoppable.. until now. It has just over 200,000 miles on it and has has ita share of problems but nothing major. Recently I picked up on a noise from the motor (sister was driving) and turns out that it's coming off the crank area. I parked it and have yet to mess with it but I suspect it is a bad oil pump, broken crank or bearing. Hoping to take it apart and learn about motor building!

 

The 2004 is a heap. My Dad ordered it custom from the factory in 2003. It is an SLT extended cad, long bed. It has 4.1 rear gears and the 6.0 liter motor. You name it, it has gone wrong.

 

The brake lines all rusted through and ruptured (while sister was driving). I replaced them with stainless lines and fittings. On top of that I replaced all four calipers (bleeder screws were frozen) and did rotors and pads.

 

On the unfinished list I have...

The doors leak and seat heater controls come on when they please, noisy lifters, rusting fuel lines (badly rusted too),the spare tire safety mechanism rusted and frooze and none of the gauges work.

 

On top of that there are things that cosmetically have gone wrong. The wheels all have peeling clear coat and pitting, the frame is rusting like no tomorrow, the grill chrome is destroyed, the lights are yellowed and the badging is fading.

 

This truck is an embarrassment to GM. I have never seen a final product put together so poorly. After this beast that gets 11 MPG, my next truck will be a FORD.GM just has not shown that they can make a good product. But for now I am stuck with the beast.

Im embarrassed also. 2002 sub 5.3 z71.

Replaced- rotors/pads, power steering pump at 109K, rear lift gate hydraulics 111K, rear end 113K , bad axle bearings 121K, exhaust manifold bolts 120K. All A/C light bulbs at 112K. Now i need new lights in my factory radio- all burnt out and fan rev's high, fix the sliding seat, replace the front speaker- i did already brand new ac delco and its still really quiet, my belt tensioner is going, broken seat belts, and the rear back trim panels are falling apart, bad rear arm rest, no emergency brake. I've had this since 109K and paid 9K for it. Could not be more disappointed. The only other gm i would buy is a 96 roadmaster or 05 yukon 2500 quadrasteer. And the famous z71 bumpers rusting through, and top luggage rack fading. Too many problems for low miles. I've babied this things so much. Any similar stories? And i need a new front left ball joint

Edited June 27, 2014 by 02suburbanZ71

[absinthminded]

Dang, Serventsalesman and 02subarbanz71...you guys are making me feel better and better about my truck!

 

So while I was at the dealer they told me that they couldn't align my truck because I needed 1 new upper control arm and inner and outer tierods. SO, thats what I replaced. I figured with 180k on the clock (if all the parts were original) that the list would be much longer. I did that work and took it to a local Belle Tire for an alignment. They told me that they couldn't align it because it needed another upper control arm (passenger side this time) both lower ball joints, and Pittman/idler arm.

 

I 've been doing the work with a buddy that was an ASE mechanic. This has been the hugest pain in the ding ding Ive ever had. NOTHING comes apart. camber bolts are impossible unless you have an air hammer and you might want to just replace them like me because you boogered them so bad getting them out. The lower ball joints did not want to separate from the knuckle. I had to pound the shit out of them and broke a small ear on one getting it to split. That was after breaking my pickle fork. We took the lower control arms to a local shop to have ball joints pressed out. You definitely need to take a cutoff wheel to the flanged ring around the ball joint before you try and press them out. The press didn't work worth a crap so they were hammered out.

The Pitman arm was far and away the worst. Puller and an impact gun and a hammer didn't budge..Then the steering box gets chucked up in a vice. somewhere between squeezing the crap out of the steering box and beating on it with a hammer (not by me) we managed to crack the box or break a seal or something. Of course we didn't find that out until the end of a very very long day, hot as bawls, sweaty, dirty, exhausted...we got it all back together, poured fluid into the res and it gushed out all over the floor! Perfect. Now I own a new steering box. That is waiting to go in...

I called up the local parts store, to whom I give a lot of money to and ordered up a remand box last night. They asked me if my truck was sport or luxury. I said its a Z71 and it has leather seats. "Oh well, we keep one style in stock but it says on our computer that you need the other one because yours is luxury sport." ok, order it up. I was at the parts store waiting, with my core in had when the parts truck arrived an hour late. NOPE...its not the same Delphi box. Its larger. The mounts and shafts all look to be in the same places as mine but it is clearly larger and the case is a bit different. I told them to go grab the one they kept on the shelf...Boom! That was the correct box. I could of had it 3 hours sooner and might of had my truck back on the road today.

Didn't mean to go on a rant but damn... If you are going to attempt that work and your parts are original and you live in the rust belt... Have a set of torches on had. Heat would have saved us a ton of time. Make sure you have an air hammer to drive out those camber bolts. Make sure your dealer has some camber bolts in stock. Now I own one thanks to this little project. The $50 craftsman one is just fine. Have an angle grinder or a cut off wheel to get those ball joint rings out. Tighten up your pitman arm puller with an impact gun and then smack the side of the Pittman arm with a hammer...don't hammer the box and if you dont have torches soak that thing with PB blaster or something over night. Cant hurt.

Hopefully I get to drive it tomorrow.

BLOOD, SWEAT and BEERS

Edited June 27, 2014 by Absinthminded

[8.1HD/ALLISON]

Welcome to the life of a mechanic........

 

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