HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[Dangerdick]

Small update - I wasn't able to get the resistor system working correctly to allow the top strips to function independently. The current regulators from Diode Dynamics are set for all 3 boards and diverting the power through resistors when the headlights aren't illuminated simply isn't as reliable and feasible as I would like, so I will be running them as one unit.

 

Projectors are back in and everything is coming together nicely.

 

[440hsp]

Danger what's the easiest way to open the light? I want to paint mine also like I did on the retro with my car.

 

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[Dangerdick]

Preheat oven to 240

 

Bake headlight for 20 minutes

 

Use a small straight blade screw driver to quickly work around headlight and break seal

 

Reheat for approx 7 minutes

 

Remove lens. I'm opening these lights in about half an hour now. Not near as hard as it seems.

[Dangerdick]

A couple more photos including the halos around my Rigid Lights

 

[BowHunter1]

^^^ That is pretty Badass Danger.... I wish I had the time and know how to do something like that!!

Edited June 30, 2015 by BowHunter1

[440hsp]

Preheat oven to 240

 

Bake headlight for 20 minutes

 

Use a small straight blade screw driver to quickly work around headlight and break seal

 

Reheat for approx 7 minutes

 

Remove lens. I'm opening these lights in about half an hour now. Not near as hard as it seems.

That's what I did with my car's headlights. Sounded like they were gonna be harder than that. Are you gonna add more butyl tape when going back together?

 

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[Dangerdick]

Yea you have to clean all the permaseal out of the channel then add butyl.

[440hsp]

Yea you have to clean all the permaseal out of the channel then add butyl.

Thanks for the info. [emoji106]

 

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[Jakob]

I'm having issues with my Morimoto kit, and I believe it may be the ground. Where do you all have your kit grounded to? I have mine grounded on the black bars at a 45 degree angle on the sides. I thought about sanding some paint off to get a better connection, but am really hesitant to do so.

[WendysOrBust]

I'm having issues with my Morimoto kit, and I believe it may be the ground. Where do you all have your kit grounded to? I have mine grounded on the black bars at a 45 degree angle on the sides. I thought about sanding some paint off to get a better connection, but am really hesitant to do so.

I had mine grounded to the same areas the first time and had issues as well. The driver side light would not always light up and the relay would buzz all the time. Eventually I had to get my relays replaced because some moisture got inside and when I reinstalled my kit I sanded some paint off and have had no issues since then. Light up right away all the time and no buzzing.

 

If you don't want to sand paint off your going to need to extend the grounds and ground to the battery.

[jetfixer737]

I had mine grounded to the same areas the first time and had issues as well. The driver side light would not always light up and the relay would buzz all the time. Eventually I had to get my relays replaced because some moisture got inside and when I reinstalled my kit I sanded some paint off and have had no issues since then. Light up right away all the time and no buzzing.

 

If you don't want to sand paint off your going to need to extend the grounds and ground to the battery.

 

I went ahead and sanded the top of the riv-nut on the forward end of that 45 degree rod. When I did it I carefully taped around the riv-nut so when sanding I only removed paint from the riv-nut surface itself. With everything grounded there, my lights work perfectly.

 

Well almost perfectly.

 

The TRS D2S setup I installed (With new FX-R projectors) only works without the capacitor link installed. No matter which way, polarity, ground location/ground quality I attempt to connect the capacitor link, the lights refuse to function. I work at an aviation school and had one of our avionics instructors test the link and he found an apparent bad capacitor. One phone call to TRS and another link is on the way.

 

I'd be tempted to just go without the capacitor link, but from everything I've been hearing even if I don't need it now, eventually I will.

Edited July 2, 2015 by jetfixer737

[440hsp]

 

I went ahead and sanded the top of the riv-nut on the forward end of that 45 degree rod and with everything grounded there, the lights work perfectly.

 

Well almost perfectly.

 

The TRS setup only worked WITHOUT the capacitor link. No matter which way, polarity, ground location I attempted with the capacitor link, the lights refused to function. I work at an aviation school and had one of our avionics instructors check the link out and found an apparent bad capacitor. One phone call to TRS and another link is on the way.

Jet, I had the same issue with my last sierra kit. The capacitor link would not work. Tried everything they suggested. Relays were buzzing and the light would flicker. Sanded metal to get proper ground too. Ordered 2 more but never tried them because I traded my 2nd in for a 4wd. Got my kit tonight so I will try them when I open the back of the lights and complete my fxr retro.

 

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[Chadwilliam1]

does anybody make aftermarket head lights?

[S9779]

I did my TRS install today have a question. Since like many others times this ordeal left me wishing for a few extra inches to pay with I decided to mount the relay on the passenger side of the truck and use the 12 volt source running to the fuse box. Does anyone think this will be a problem since I'm not connected directly to the battery. Everything lights no buzzing.

[M.Kirk]

Hey, I'm new here and I've been looking through this topic for a a few days and was wondering if anyone has had any experiences with Xenon Depot Xtreme HID kit. I have looked and looked and not really seen much on them on here. I went ahead and ordered a pair, but just curious if anyone is using them, they are supposed to be here tomorrow so I guess Ill find out then if nothing lol.