Jump to content

HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

MotoMedic
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

**The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic**   This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID f

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

-----HID FOG LIGHTS-----   Installing HID fog light bulbs in the 2014's has so far been a mixed bag. Some members have installed operated them for months without incident, while others have had thei

FastWS6TA
FastWS6TA

What is your name? I will look you up and reply. You wouldn't believe the amount of emails we get in a day. It is staggering and the best we can do is quickly sift through them looking for the easiest

Posted Images

Charles Dusek Enthusiast

Charles Dusek

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know how to get the fastheadlights bottom projector bolts off once on. I used loctite on them and can get them somewhat loose but I can't get them off.

 

I tried for a couple of hours with needle nose pliers and all sorts of nut turning devices (wrenches, locking needlenose), but that space is tight and its hard to get a grip on the bolt and turn the nut. The bolt/nut just spins together and I probably mangled the threads.

 

Headlight is back on the truck as I was thinking my last option is to drill out the bolts. If there is a socket wrench that holds the bolts from the top that would be great. I will probably have to open the head light to get to it otherwise.

 

IDK if anyone else had this issue but the 3-bolt method put the projector at an angle that doesn't allow me to raise the cutoff high enough. Its okay but I need to either raise the cutoff or I could level the truck.

 

I think I need that top spacer in there in order to get the angles right and that's why I was trying to take out the projector out.

skreechyca Enthusiast

skreechyca

Posted
Posted

I havnt done mine but from what I gather many use the bottom bracket and not the top in the 3 bolt method. I'm sure you already checked but tripple check the bulbs are in correctly.

Herd Thinner Enthusiast

Herd Thinner

Posted
Posted

Ok some guidance. I retro fitted my lights. Have everything wired up. Set truck to auxiliary and turned headlights on. They flashed on then off. Then nothing. I can't repeat it unless i unhook the battery and wait almost like letting a circuit breaker reseting. Fuse in the relay fine. I do know The high beam and low beam switch inside the truck work or the sound of the headlight moving work but no light obviously. Only thing i could think is wrong is the capacitor to the OEM attached to the light bulb isn't connecting so the switch inside works proper . I grounded it to the same spot I have my amp boards so the ground should be good. Help me .

sclemmer Enthusiast

sclemmer

Posted
Posted

Ok some guidance. I retro fitted my lights. Have everything wired up. Set truck to auxiliary and turned headlights on. They flashed on then off. Then nothing. I can't repeat it unless i unhook the battery and wait almost like letting a circuit breaker reseting. Fuse in the relay fine. I do know The high beam and low beam switch inside the truck work or the sound of the headlight moving work but no light obviously. Only thing i could think is wrong is the capacitor to the OEM attached to the light bulb isn't connecting so the switch inside works proper . I grounded it to the same spot I have my amp boards so the ground should be good. Help me .

Silverado or Sierra?

sclemmer Enthusiast

sclemmer

Posted
Posted

Quick question for those that have successfully done this. How do you feel about the lights being on all the time? Meaning the new HIDs are on all the time as DRL's as well.

eznonby Enthusiast

eznonby

Posted
Posted (edited)

Guys I need some help...I have ordered he FX-r projectors to replace the factory ones my '15 Silverado also ordered the brackets from Fast headlights but only received ne set of brackets to do one light. Anyway I have my truck torn apart and the headlights in the living room floor, can someone post pics of the slots that are cut or the holes that are drilled in the FX-R's to be able to mount them without using the brackets? What's the best way to line the new projector up in order to drill the new holes or cut the slots so the factory bottom holes can be used. I have read on here where some people have only used the bottom brackets from Fast Headlights and not used the top, can this be done also? I have saw in the past people have redrilled the lower holes but I cant seem to find the post where it was talked about.

Edited by eznonby
skreechyca Enthusiast

skreechyca

Posted
Posted

Post #9 has pics of the new holes/bolts. If u dont split the lights I believe u can only get one top bolt in(or drill a small hole in back of light) and if u drill the new holes in the bottom getting them aligned may be tough. I think if u could somehow mark the bottom holes with the bracket(fastheadlight) it may be ur best bet or drill the bottom holes in the FXR a bit bigger and allow for some twisting of the projector to get the alignment straight before final tightening.

Charles Dusek Enthusiast

Charles Dusek

Posted
Posted

To the guy with the problem with his lights flashing. I was having the same issue. The polarity going to the capacitor probably needs to be reversed. I noticed that the red and black wires on my 9011 to H11 adapter were opposite of my H11 female coming from the truck. That meant the connection into the capacitor needs to be reversed before I plugged it in. Once I did that everything fire up.

goblue4016 Enthusiast

goblue4016

Posted
Posted

You mean these........ ;) They will be out real soon. First prototype right here. It is awful pulling fog lights in 2014 + Silverado though. Nnbs is easy but these new ones you need to pull the bumper off. Aside from that the Morimoto XBLED fogs are awesome.

 

bb00356c287d2e00e212688daa876148.jpgce33ac3d820769264620456a05337355.jpg4e9ab2e72ac40b6d0c7624f39af27327.jpg

Oh Im jealous you got your hands on some already! let us know when they come out as i want them!

eznonby Enthusiast

eznonby

Posted
Posted

Bingo I flipped the bottom fast headlights bracket and the alignment needed for the new holes to be drilled is spot on. I have seen n other post where people have added washers between the projector and mounting holes in headlight, do I still need to add them?

ruggerag Enthusiast

ruggerag

Posted
Posted

Which projectors do I want to upgrade to on a silverado with oem projectors?

 

The fxr projectors that everyone is using, they are designed for dual output, do you just ignore that part or does it make a difference?

 

I'm looking at the morimoto elite hid system, but it does not include new projectors. Also, it says it includes the capacitor link, is that the anti flicker can bus capacitor?

 

Using these for low beams only, do the hids stay on as drls? How does that work?

 

Thanks

sclemmer Enthusiast

sclemmer

Posted
Posted

Which projectors do I want to upgrade to on a silverado with oem projectors?

 

The fxr projectors that everyone is using, they are designed for dual output, do you just ignore that part or does it make a difference?

 

I'm looking at the morimoto elite hid system, but it does not include new projectors. Also, it says it includes the capacitor link, is that the anti flicker can bus capacitor?

 

Using these for low beams only, do the hids stay on as drls? How does that work?

 

Thanks

Easiest thing to do is buy the kit from fastheadlights. This will get you everything you need to install plus the brackets.

 

Concerning dual output, you can connect the high beam wires if you choose and have essentially 4 high beams but there is no need to do that unless you just want to.

 

The HID's will stay on as DRL's. In my '15 Silverado, I just turn the auto headlight switch off after starting the truck and they stay off during the day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • B14Sierra
      Cam chain tensioner question

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • dna9656
      No low range 4 x 4

      By dna9656 · Posted

      My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • asilverblazer
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • asilverblazer
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • Chuck FB
      summer road trips in the 2026 2500HD

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...