HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[14LTsilverado]

Has anyone done or put that h1 mini retrofit kit on their LT headlights? Or is there a thread of a build I can check out? I've been wanting to give it a try but wanting to see if anyone else has done it.

[Sean Neilan]

Ok I'm really confused now. I had the Morimoto HID's installed in my truck about a month ago. The jackass installer decided the relay/anti-flicker wasn't necessary and didn't install that even though I gave it to him. Everything seemed to be working ok except maybe 1/10 times the passenger side ligjt wouldn't come on until I cycled the headlight knob a few times. Well I knew it was going to happen but never had time to install the harness myself and the passenger side ballast went bad. Today I installed the harness after confirming it was a bad ballast and not the bulb. Everything seemed to be working fine (at least on the one good side, just ordered a new ballast). Light comes on fine every time. Until my truck is running. If I turn my headlights on before starting the truck, it will stay illuminated. If I start my truck and then turn on my headlights, nothing. Is this just because I have the one bad ballast and will work properly when the new one comes in or is something else jacked up?

[STINSAN3]

I wanna get HID's for my '14 Silverado, Can't decide just to get HID's or do a whole retro fit. I just basically just wanna do the HIDS for now. I had Spencer HIDs in 6K on my '07. Can't decide if I wanna do 5K or 6K this around.

[jackedupZ71]

i noticed yesterday after having my hids installed for the last few months that they started flickering and one of the relays will start buzzing while the driving lights are on. i can turn the headlights on and they work perfectly. could a relay be going bad causing the driving lights to do this? i have the hd harness and everything installed also

 

 

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[cruizin01]

i noticed yesterday after having my hids installed for the last few months that they started flickering and one of the relays will start buzzing while the driving lights are on. i can turn the headlights on and they work perfectly. could a relay be going bad causing the driving lights to do this? i have the hd harness and everything installed also

 

 

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I had to unhook the capacitor to get mine to stop buzzing. I guess you dont need it if you have slt and up. But now intermittently the rh light does not work. Not sure if the relay is crapping out now or what.

 

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[jackedupZ71]

mine is a wt. even after installing my XB fogs they did fine for about 3 weeks and just started flickering yesterday. guess i will have to retrack my wires

 

 

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[NaClCrocodile]

So I just finished installing my new Mini D2S 4.0 from TRS/Fastheadlights and wanted to note a few things for those thinking about making the switch.

 

First, I want to +1 the guide on Fastheadlights website - that thing is great and tells you exactly how to put it all together, especially if you order the kit directly from them. I, however, saw an opportunity to save ~$20 by ordering everything (except the mounting brackets) from TRS. The only difference that I can tell from the TRS D2S 4.0 Projector + HID kit and the Fastheadlights kit is that the TRS kit uses D2S bulbs/ignitors and the Fastheadlights kit uses D2H bulbs/ignitors. I don't plan on upgrading the bulbs for a long time, however it does seem that the D2S bulb is more popular and has some more options if/when I do decide to switch. The trade-off is that the D2S bulb/ignitor is pretty bulky and I was worried that it would be tight inside the housing, however there seems to be plenty of room now that it's all installed.

 

The only trouble I've had is that I think TRS sent me the wrong Morimoto Anti-flicker Capacitor. The one on their website shows an OEM input, a output to relay harness input, the capacitor and then a ground. The capacitor that I received looks like this (please ignore the ox-gard):

 

 

When I plug the OEM input into this, then plug this into the relay, the lights simply don't turn on. When I remove this and plug the relay harness directly into the OEM output, they turn on, but there is a buzzing/humming noise from the harness. I'm assuming this is simply the wrong capacitor, but if I'm missing something, I'm open to suggestions. Also, I made sure to switch the inputs around in case the polarity was wrong and it still didn't fire up. I'll be calling TRS on Monday to see if we can clear up the problem and I'll post an update.

 

The only other thing I would note is that if you do order from TRS, you'll want about 6-12" of spare wire so that you can extend the OEM harness outside of the housing. You have to cut the OEM output wires anyway in order to feed them through the grommet so that you can connect the relay harness/capacitor to the OEM output. I'll take some pics when I get it opened back up to figure out this capacitor problem.

 

Overall, I'm very pleased with the outcome. I've never been afraid of getting my hands dirty, but I'm by no means experienced under the hood and I think the hardest part was probably cutting the headlight housing, and that was because I was using a razor knife rather than a Dremel. Now that they're all siliconed back in place, the cut line is hardly noticeable, which is exactly what I was hoping for by using a razor. Hope this helps anyone on the fence.

[Sean Neilan]

So I just finished installing my new Mini D2S 4.0 from TRS/Fastheadlights and wanted to note a few things for those thinking about making the switch.

 

First, I want to +1 the guide on Fastheadlights website - that thing is great and tells you exactly how to put it all together, especially if you order the kit directly from them. I, however, saw an opportunity to save ~$20 by ordering everything (except the mounting brackets) from TRS. The only difference that I can tell from the TRS D2S 4.0 Projector + HID kit and the Fastheadlights kit is that the TRS kit uses D2S bulbs/ignitors and the Fastheadlights kit uses D2H bulbs/ignitors. I don't plan on upgrading the bulbs for a long time, however it does seem that the D2S bulb is more popular and has some more options if/when I do decide to switch. The trade-off is that the D2S bulb/ignitor is pretty bulky and I was worried that it would be tight inside the housing, however there seems to be plenty of room now that it's all installed.

 

The only trouble I've had is that I think TRS sent me the wrong Morimoto Anti-flicker Capacitor. The one on their website shows an OEM input, a output to relay harness input, the capacitor and then a ground. The capacitor that I received looks like this (please ignore the ox-gard):

 

 

When I plug the OEM input into this, then plug this into the relay, the lights simply don't turn on. When I remove this and plug the relay harness directly into the OEM output, they turn on, but there is a buzzing/humming noise from the harness. I'm assuming this is simply the wrong capacitor, but if I'm missing something, I'm open to suggestions. Also, I made sure to switch the inputs around in case the polarity was wrong and it still didn't fire up. I'll be calling TRS on Monday to see if we can clear up the problem and I'll post an update.

 

The only other thing I would note is that if you do order from TRS, you'll want about 6-12" of spare wire so that you can extend the OEM harness outside of the housing. You have to cut the OEM output wires anyway in order to feed them through the grommet so that you can connect the relay harness/capacitor to the OEM output. I'll take some pics when I get it opened back up to figure out this capacitor problem.

 

Overall, I'm very pleased with the outcome. I've never been afraid of getting my hands dirty, but I'm by no means experienced under the hood and I think the hardest part was probably cutting the headlight housing, and that was because I was using a razor knife rather than a Dremel. Now that they're all siliconed back in place, the cut line is hardly noticeable, which is exactly what I was hoping for by using a razor. Hope this helps anyone on the fence.

The newer TRS Morimoto capacitors do not have their own ground. I would double check your other connections or you may have a polarity issue (polarity doesn't matter for halogens so they're not always wired for it). Try plugging in your capacitor with the plug reversed into the OEM and if it works then you can swap the pins

[NaClCrocodile]

The newer TRS Morimoto capacitors do not have their own ground. I would double check your other connections or you may have a polarity issue (polarity doesn't matter for halogens so they're not always wired for it). Try plugging in your capacitor with the plug reversed into the OEM and if it works then you can swap the pins

 

I actually got the same info from TRS yesterday - apparently the pictures just haven't been updated on their website. Before calling them I did switch the OEM plug around to check if it was the polarity and no change, so hopefully it was just a faulty capacitor.

 

Also when I went to adjust the lights on Saturday night, the driver's side bulb went out. This was after around 1-2 minutes of total run time, so I figured it was either a faulty ballast or ignitor. I switched the ballasts around first and the passenger side headlight wouldn't turn on but the driver's side did, so I'm pretty sure it was the ballast. I called TRS and they are shipping me a new capacitor and ballast at no charge. I'm hoping to have everything switched out by Thursday but so far TRS's customer service has been top notch!

[mkeddie]

So I finally got around to installing my hid from trs they are 35 watt 5500

Also got one fog light installed u can see that hitting guard rail and right in front of truck

 

Stock low...high

Hid low....High

[Aaron1085]

It's facing down. I haven't asked Morimoto; I probably should. Do they have an account on this forum? It's not terrible, it's just something I notice.

 

I've also noticed that it isn't exactly a PURE spectrum of headlights. I can see slight shadows from each headlight, almost like the shadows that would denote the outline of the round projector. (Like cat's eyes) for example.

 

 

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I've noticed my passenger side light bulb not working a few times now over the pst 2 weeks. I don't drive at night a lot, however it's annoying or course given the newness of my lights. I used the auto start twice now to turn my truck on and only the driver side light will work. I've tried turning them off, then back on. I've tried turning the truck off, then back on. No luck.

 

Perhaps a day or two later they will work fine when I turn them on.

 

Is this thought to be a common issue? I have maybe 15hrs of driving with the lights on total (likely less). Can TRS weigh in? Thank you!

 

 

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[EFLine]

I've noticed my passenger side light bulb not working a few times now over the pst 2 weeks. I don't drive at night a lot, however it's annoying or course given the newness of my lights. I used the auto start twice now to turn my truck on and only the driver side light will work. I've tried turning them off, then back on. I've tried turning the truck off, then back on. No luck.

 

Perhaps a day or two later they will work fine when I turn them on.

 

Is this thought to be a common issue? I have maybe 15hrs of driving with the lights on total (likely less). Can TRS weigh in? Thank you!

 

 

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Perhaps it has to do with the power source. My Mercedes did this and I did not know why at the time, but have figured it out on that car as well as the Truck. Do you have a cable going from your battery to your ballast? If not, that might be causing the issue. Otherwise the power has to go through your switch in the cab and might not be enough to initially power it up. You might also experience some flickering if you don't have a battery cable to the ballast.

[cNate]

This is a great thread with lots of information. I do see several of you went with the Morimoto kits. I also see that people have had issues with them. I only found one post about people interested in knowing if anyone has used the Race Sport HID conversion kit with no responses. It was a few years old. Anyone tried this kit, how long have you had it, are you happy with it?

 

The website says $300 but I have found them online anywhere from $130-160. Link below with kit details. Thanks!

 

https://www.racesportinc.com/E-Shop/p/5850/gmc-sierra-1500-3500-14-16-9006-hid-kit-w-all

[Jaycreek7908]

Without sorting through the huge thread with so much info , could someone tell me EXACTLY what I need? I'll probably order from trs or lightwerks. On lightwerks site I seen bulb options in H11A & H11B. 2014 Silverado LT with halogen housings

[alconk]

I still have the brand new GM 2015 GM projector headlights with the retro installed and HIDs for sale. You will be amazed at the lighting difference !!