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Posted

Sorry if this was already answered but really didn't want to look through 185 pages.

 

Anyone done a regular LT projector retro? Was it very difficult?

 

Really don't want to spend $1000+ on LTZ lights and I don't trust aftermarket ones.

 

Have you found any info on this yet? I seriously don't want to look through 185 pages either and every time I see this question pop up no one answers it.

 

I have the regular reflector (LT headlights) and want to put a projector in for as cheap as possible

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Have you found any info on this yet? I seriously don't want to look through 185 pages either and every time I see this question pop up no one answers it.

 

I have the regular reflector (LT headlights) and want to put a projector in for as cheap as possible

 

I am willing to let go for a significant discount but not going to give away $1300 headlights. Can post pictures if needed.

Posted

 

I am willing to let go for a significant discount but not going to give away $1300 headlights. Can post pictures if needed.

No thanks, still going to be out of my price range I rather do a build myself. Just want to see someone who has done it already

Posted

 

I actually got the same info from TRS yesterday - apparently the pictures just haven't been updated on their website. Before calling them I did switch the OEM plug around to check if it was the polarity and no change, so hopefully it was just a faulty capacitor.

 

Also when I went to adjust the lights on Saturday night, the driver's side bulb went out. This was after around 1-2 minutes of total run time, so I figured it was either a faulty ballast or ignitor. I switched the ballasts around first and the passenger side headlight wouldn't turn on but the driver's side did, so I'm pretty sure it was the ballast. I called TRS and they are shipping me a new capacitor and ballast at no charge. I'm hoping to have everything switched out by Thursday but so far TRS's customer service has been top notch!

Hey, just finished up my build last week. Did you ever get an answer for the capacitor? I had the same problem and have just been running the lights with no capacitor. They work 100% however; I have to turn my knob to Headlights on (the auto feature results in the flickering)

Posted

Hey, just finished up my build last week. Did you ever get an answer for the capacitor? I had the same problem and have just been running the lights with no capacitor. They work 100% however; I have to turn my knob to Headlights on (the auto feature results in the flickering)

 

Yeah, the new ballast and capacitor TRS sent worked (mostly) like a charm. Every few starts my driver side will flicker for a second or two before going to full capacity but this doesn't really bother me so I haven't messed with it too much (I know I should before it really causes problems).

 

I'm not 100% sure about your setup, but I know when I set mine up without the capacitor, there was a buzzing noise coming from the ballasts. This is an indication that your ballasts are firing on/off rapidly, which will cause some serious longevity issues. If you ordered from TRS, just give them a call/email and they'll get you straightened out. If not, try reversing the polarity on your capacitor before ordering a new one (if this experience taught me anything, it's that red does not necessarily mean positive and black does not necessarily mean negative haha).

Posted

 

Yeah, the new ballast and capacitor TRS sent worked (mostly) like a charm. Every few starts my driver side will flicker for a second or two before going to full capacity but this doesn't really bother me so I haven't messed with it too much (I know I should before it really causes problems).

 

I'm not 100% sure about your setup, but I know when I set mine up without the capacitor, there was a buzzing noise coming from the ballasts. This is an indication that your ballasts are firing on/off rapidly, which will cause some serious longevity issues. If you ordered from TRS, just give them a call/email and they'll get you straightened out. If not, try reversing the polarity on your capacitor before ordering a new one (if this experience taught me anything, it's that red does not necessarily mean positive and black does not necessarily mean negative haha).

Hahaha Amen. There is a buzzing noise when I first turn on the lights but after they begin to warm up it is completely quiet, that is why I am so puzzled. And yes, I ordered from TRS and I also have the HD H11 Harness (might be why it works so well). I will try to reverse polarity when I put the lights back on my truck. Had to take them off so I can repaint my ambers :tear: They were PITCH black, couldn't see the turn signals during the day lol, saved myself the ticket and just decided to fix it now.

Posted

Hahaha Amen. There is a buzzing noise when I first turn on the lights but after they begin to warm up it is completely quiet, that is why I am so puzzled. And yes, I ordered from TRS and I also have the HD H11 Harness (might be why it works so well). I will try to reverse polarity when I put the lights back on my truck. Had to take them off so I can repaint my ambers :tear: They were PITCH black, couldn't see the turn signals during the day lol, saved myself the ticket and just decided to fix it now.

TRS always has solid gear & customer service !

 

 

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Posted

Hahaha Amen. There is a buzzing noise when I first turn on the lights but after they begin to warm up it is completely quiet, that is why I am so puzzled. And yes, I ordered from TRS and I also have the HD H11 Harness (might be why it works so well). I will try to reverse polarity when I put the lights back on my truck. Had to take them off so I can repaint my ambers :tear: They were PITCH black, couldn't see the turn signals during the day lol, saved myself the ticket and just decided to fix it now.

 

I'd probably just give them a call on principle since you already paid for the capacitor and aren't getting the benefit of using it... and since it's really easy to drop in when they send you a new one.

 

The headlights look sweet though. I've been thinking about getting switchbacks from Diode Dynamics to replace the stock LED boards now since my headlights make my LEDs look yellow.

 

Did you do a full projector retrofit or just the bulbs? I catch myself staring at the cutoff line whenever I pull up to the house haha.

Posted

 

Did you do a full projector retrofit or just the bulbs? I catch myself staring at the cutoff line whenever I pull up to the house haha.

I have an LT so full on reflector retro haha, took awhile but oh so worth it.

 

And yeah, as soon as I fix my amber issue I will test the capacitors again

Posted

I have an LT so full on reflector retro haha, took awhile but oh so worth it.

 

And yeah, as soon as I fix my amber issue I will test the capacitors again

Nice. For the Chevys, do the projectors serve as lows and the highs stay standard or do they both come on with the highs and the cutoff just drops away in the projector?

 

If money was no opject I guess they could both be swapped with projectors but it seems like overkill now that I've seen what one set of retrofit projectors will do haha

Posted

Nice. For the Chevys, do the projectors serve as lows and the highs stay standard or do they both come on with the highs and the cutoff just drops away in the projector?

 

If money was no opject I guess they could both be swapped with projectors but it seems like overkill now that I've seen what one set of retrofit projectors will do haha

I budgeted for the project because I wanted to go all out. I bought the Halos back on Black Friday just to give you an idea of how long I've taken lol, I actually found a guy on Facebook and bought his stock headlights for 100$ ( a rare find for OEM heads) so that I wouldn't be rushed.

 

As far as projectors go, I bought 2 sets of Bi-Xenon projectors. TRS sells a Quad Bi-Xenon Harness that will allow you to run 4 low beams and 4 high beams at once but I figured that would be overkill. So I set up my more expensive projectors in the original low beam spot. I then ordered a high beam splitter from TRS so that the high beam function of the top projector would work with the "high-beam" (2nd projector). Since I have way more output than I will need and the "High-Beams" will mainly be for show, I removed the shutter in the 2nd projector set so that all the light will be allowed to flow through (i.e a high-beam if you will).

 

So in summary, on the low-beam setting, the top projector comes on alone with the solenoid cut-off. When I flip the high-beam switch, the shutter opens in the top set and allows all the light through, and the bottom projectors turn on (rememer, I removed the shutter in this set).

 

If that sounds super confusing I could try to explain it better lol. By the way, as soon as I finish fixing my amber reflector problem and put the headlights back on my truck I will post pictures of the light output. It is insane and on the low-beam setting, I didn't get flashed at all because the cutoff is so crisp and designed to not blind others.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey not to rehash already covered topics, but can anyone shed some light on why the HIDs work perfectly (no flickering/buzzing) without the capacitors attached? To make them work in AUTO I just have to switch to headlights on, then go back to AUTO.

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