Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

My 2015 Sierra. G5-R, CBI, Hylux 35watt. When you attach the bracket to the headlight there is a little play with the screw holes so my drivers side seems like it has to be rotated counter clockwise a little bit. Over all the light output is amazing. CBI's are a little warmer than my morimoto fogs, CBB's would probably match a little better. 

 

25ft from garage door

 

20190824_205427.thumb.jpg.dfa8b0590396d504a8a6fa3937d92a85.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

20190824_205433.jpg

Edited by BlackZ71SLT
Posted
56 minutes ago, BlackZ71SLT said:

40ft from garage door

 

Looks great. How long have you been running these and were you happy with the seller?

 

 

 

Posted

Hey guys

For some reason the discount code at Fastheadlights wasn't working. I fixed it and it should be good to go now. It can be used on HID kits and Retrofit kits. Just a note, the FXR projector is being discontinued and will no longer be offered. The D2S 5.0 essentially has made it obsolete. Farewell FXR, it's been real. Lol.
Discount code is gm_forum10%

Enjoy

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted
https://www.fastheadlights.com/product-p/buy_hid_kit.htm

This kit is much better than the Morimoto Elite kit. The Morimot kit requires a relay harness and to be honest the 35 watt igniter/ballast from Morimoto have been very unreliable. I stopped selling the Morimoto Elite system because I was going crazy with troubleshooting and processing warranty claims. The Hylux ballast is much simpler and has been far more reliable. Its asplug n play as it gets.

You can also upgrade your fog lights to the Morimoto XBLED fog lights to improve output and beam distribution. Those are listed on the site above as well. They are also plug n play.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


If I already have the HID kit from TRS, can I buy just the Hylux ballasts to replace my morimoto ballasts? I’ve have them kit installed for about a year and a half and have went through 3 ballasts so far and one bulb. Plus for the price of your kit, I can get a whole new kit for the price of the parts from TRS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

If I already have the HID kit from TRS, can I buy just the Hylux ballasts to replace my morimoto ballasts? I’ve have them kit installed for about a year and a half and have went through 3 ballasts so far and one bulb. Plus for the price of your kit, I can get a whole new kit for the price of the parts from TRS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes you can. The Morimoto bulbs work great with the Hylux. No need for the relay harness either.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
On ‎9‎/‎1‎/‎2019 at 8:18 AM, FastWS6TA said:

Yes you can. The Morimoto bulbs work great with the Hylux. No need for the relay harness either.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

For the HID kit shown on your website, are there any install videos available or an instruction sheet?  Curious how this kit is installed.  Thanks.

https://www.fastheadlights.com/product-p/buy_hid_kit.htm

 

Posted

Just ordered the retrofit kit from Fast Headlights for my 14 LT. Also picked up a set of LT headlights to retrofit off of a buddy for cheap so I can take my time putting this all together. I'll make sure to take lots of pictures and post them when I'm done.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So started this project the other day and I said I would document it. Below are the headlights I got off a friend for a good deal.

spacer.png

 

Here is the kit from Fast Headlights 

spacer.png

spacer.png

 

First things first, remove the trim. Used a head gun and flat head to pry them off. Had to be careful about the tabs

spacer.png

 

A couple nights later I had the time to crack them open. I did 270°F for 15 minutes at first, then put them back in at 5 minute intervals after that.

spacer.png

spacer.png

 

All in all it took me roughly 2 hours to split the headlights. The first took me about 1.25hrs because I wanted to make sure I wouldn't mess them up. Second set went much quicker.

 

That's all for right now. Next step is to clean out as much of the sealant as I can and then mount the projectors and test them.

Posted
So started this project the other day and I said I would document it. Below are the headlights I got off a friend for a good deal.
0lOvmbL.jpg
 
Here is the kit from Fast Headlights 
PPJYPyi.jpg
aIL0H8X.jpg
 
First things first, remove the trim. Used a head gun and flat head to pry them off. Had to be careful about the tabs
6WjKgqA.jpg
 
A couple nights later I had the time to crack them open. I did 270°F for 15 minutes at first, then put them back in at 5 minute intervals after that.
YRtuswX.jpg
LnHJEuM.jpg
 
All in all it took me roughly 2 hours to split the headlights. The first took me about 1.25hrs because I wanted to make sure I wouldn't mess them up. Second set went much quicker.
 
That's all for right now. Next step is to clean out as much of the sealant as I can and then mount the projectors and test them.
You got thr hardest part out of the way. Just be real tedious with cleaning the channel. Keep tossing it in and out of the oven to keep the permaseal hot and it will crumble. When we clean them out we get it all out. Right down to the bare plastic channel.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 9/20/2019 at 12:06 PM, FastWS6TA said:

You got thr hardest part out of the way. Just be real tedious with cleaning the channel. Keep tossing it in and out of the oven to keep the permaseal hot and it will crumble. When we clean them out we get it all out. Right down to the bare plastic channel.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Thank you for the advice. Yeah this stuff is really stuck in there without some heat.

 

Another question I do have: when inserting the projector into the bulb hole in the housing, there is a lip on the back side of the housing that makes it almost impossible to screw on the projector nut. Do you guys usually trim this off to be able to tighten the nut?

Posted
Thank you for the advice. Yeah this stuff is really stuck in there without some heat.
 
Another question I do have: when inserting the projector into the bulb hole in the housing, there is a lip on the back side of the housing that makes it almost impossible to screw on the projector nut. Do you guys usually trim this off to be able to tighten the nut?
Yes, you need to grind it down flush so you can get the nut screwed on. Dont forget to grind down enough so you can also get the bulb holder on too.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

I just got a kit from fastheadlights, and when I got it all back together the lights wouldnt light. I feel like since neither side worked I must have done something wrong, but, its seems pretty idiot proof, plugs only go in one way for everything.

I've read some wires are sometimes backwards, what do i need to check? Any suggestions?

Posted
I just got a kit from fastheadlights, and when I got it all back together the lights wouldnt light. I feel like since neither side worked I must have done something wrong, but, its seems pretty idiot proof, plugs only go in one way for everything.
I've read some wires are sometimes backwards, what do i need to check? Any suggestions?
Hey Ben
It is definitely the wires being reversed. Flip thr plug over on the ballast and if it lights up you got thr issue identified. If that doesnt work then be sure that the plugs inside the headlights are fully seated. A bad connection will result in no light either.
Email me at [email protected] if you have any other trouble or need a phone call to help.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...