Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

34's did not require trimming, at least for me. See my signature block and photo gallery for more details. Smartest solution is to have your shop do a test fit before committing the $$, that's what Discount Tire did for me.

Thanks for the clarification. I've since decided to get 17" rims which will allow 285/70/17 or 295/70/17.

 

33x11.5x17 or 33.6x12x17. Either should fit. Funny 285/70/17 toyo Mts are 350$ RTs are 317$ and the 295/70/17 Mts are 318$. Weird.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the clarification. I've since decided to get 17" rims which will allow 285/70/17 or 295/70/17.

 

33x11.5x17 or 33.6x12x17. Either should fit. Funny 285/70/17 toyo Mts are 350$ RTs are 317$ and the 295/70/17 Mts are 318$. Weird.

All about what sizes are popular. If it's a more common size to be purchased it'll be cheaper. At one point I was looking at a 295/60/20 tire and it was like $60 more per tire than a 295/65/20

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

txhunter21 Enthusiast

txhunter21

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the clarification. I've since decided to get 17" rims which will allow 285/70/17 or 295/70/17.

 

33x11.5x17 or 33.6x12x17. Either should fit. Funny 285/70/17 toyo Mts are 350$ RTs are 317$ and the 295/70/17 Mts are 318$. Weird.

i run 285/75/17 and doesn't rub at all, i could probably even go to a 305/70/17 and be ok but i just got a 2.25 kit put on the front

bronco2977 Enthusiast

bronco2977

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I've read over all the pages and got a lot of good insight. Here is my plan to level my truck (2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 Crew Cab Standard Bed.)

 

2.25 inch Ready Lift on the front

Blocks for the rear for an inch increase to keep some rake

 

I can't decide on what size tire to get...285/60R20 or 275/65R20, on factory 20s.

 

When I get this completed, I'll post pictures. Thanks for any input.

14x4 Enthusiast

14x4

Posted
Posted

i run 285/75/17 and doesn't rub at all, i could probably even go to a 305/70/17 and be ok but i just got a 2.25 kit put on the front

I'm looking at running 285/75r17's. What is the offset on your wheels? Got pics?
hotrodz37 Senior Enthusiast

hotrodz37

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, I've read over all the pages and got a lot of good insight. Here is my plan to level my truck (2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 Crew Cab Standard Bed.)

 

2.25 inch Ready Lift on the front

Blocks for the rear for an inch increase to keep some rake

 

I can't decide on what size tire to get...285/60R20 or 275/65R20, on factory 20s.

 

When I get this completed, I'll post pictures. Thanks for any input.

 

The only tire that comes in 285-60-20 is the Goodyear Duratrac. 275-65 opens your options up some and most mfg's make this size. In my opinion 285-60-20 is the perfect tire size and I am not sure why more manufacturers haven't caught on. I have no experience with the Duratrac but have heard great things. I have mine leveled and have Toyo Open Country AT2's on mine in the 275-60-20 which are too small in my opinion so I am looking at 295-55-20 or 275-65-20 as well.

Edited by hotrodz37
  • Like 1
5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

 

The only tire that comes in 285-60-20 is the Goodyear Duratrac. 275-65 opens your options up some and most mfg's make this size. In my opinion 285-60-20 is the perfect tire size and I am not sure why more manufacturers haven't caught on. I have no experience with the Duratrac but have heard great things. I have mine leveled and have Toyo Open Country AT2's on mine in the 275-60-20 which are too small in my opinion so I am looking at 295-55-20 or 275-65-20 as well.

I agree 285/60/20 is perfect, but as you said noone makes it. So long 20s lol. Everyone has 17 sizes, Mickey Thompson, Toyo, Nitto, BFG, Goodyear, all of them almost have 285/70/17, actually i think all of them. I know not all have 295/70/17. 285/60/20 would work perfectly but if your wanting a 33" tire with no rub and are stuck to 295/55/20 or 305/55/20 you pretty much need spacers or a new rim for offset it seems. Which sucks.

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

It probably is stiffer but I don't notice. I think it handles better and you can actually put some weight in the rear without it sagging.

on my 2010 gmc all terrain 1500 I ran an add a leaf and a hellwig helper spring.

 

I'm on the fence on whether to go with a 2" block or adding a spring. I won't be doing it super often but I'll be carrying my 4 wheeler in the bed a few times over the summer. But when I'm not carrying the ATV, I'd like a smooth ride still.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

 

I'm on the fence on whether to go with a 2" block or adding a spring. I won't be doing it super often but I'll be carrying my 4 wheeler in the bed a few times over the summer. But when I'm not carrying the ATV, I'd like a smooth ride still.

Have you considered air bags? I know they won't affect the ride when they are deflated and can be adjusted. I don't tow often but when I do it pulls me way down so I plan to put airbags eventually.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

Have you considered air bags? I know they won't affect the ride when they are deflated and can be adjusted. I don't tow often but when I do it pulls me way down so I plan to put airbags eventually.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Airbags sound expensive.

 

I'd want to keep it on the cheap side.

Jon A Senior Enthusiast

Jon A

Posted
Posted

Airbags are cheap if you don't mind filling them manually. It's not quite as convenient but you get all the function.

Buckeye920 Enthusiast

Buckeye920

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've read this whole thread and have gotten some great info, so thank you for that. My question is two-fold, I'm going to add a MotoFab 1.5" leveling kit to the front. My 2015 Silverado has the stock 17 inch wheels on it. With this leveling kit, and what are the largest size tires I can run with that leveling kit and keeping the stock 17 inch wheels? I've seen a lot of answers for the 18 inch wheel, just nothing for the 17 inch wheels.

Edited by Buckeye920
txhunter21 Enthusiast

txhunter21

Posted
Posted

I've read this whole thread and have gotten some great info, so thank you for that. My question is two-fold, I'm going to add a MotoFab 1.5" leveling kit to the front. My 2015 Silverado has the stock 17 inch wheels on it. With this leveling kit, and what are the largest size tires I can run with that leveling kit and keeping the stock 17 inch wheels? I've seen a lot of answers for the 18 inch wheel, just nothing for the 17 inch wheels.

I run a 285-75-17 and it doesnt rub and that was without a level kit with a +12 offset wheel so i would say that this size would be the biggest IMHO. you would be safe really safe with a 285/70

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

Airbags are cheap if you don't mind filling them manually. It's not quite as convenient but you get all the function.

I'll look into it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...