Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2 or 2.5" RC front level, and I am running stock rims with 285/65 ko2's...I love them... they don't stick out past the fender (so if you want that look need to figure something else out)...but I think they look plent y beefy and work well for me at least.

 

(Black truck in my sig for a visual)

Posted

I have a 2 or 2.5" RC front level, and I am running stock rims with 285/65 ko2's...I love them... they don't stick out past the fender (so if you want that look need to figure something else out)...but I think they look plent y beefy and work well for me at least.

 

(Black truck in my sig for a visual)

Man, that's a pretty truck. Are you on the 20" wheels? I have 18s. I don't need tires yet, but I was leaning towards those.

 

What are you driveline angles like? Any ride issues?

Posted

Thank you! Stock 18". Personal preference but I like a little more rubber for the 4x4...plus they are cheaper for tires (and rims too if you decide to upgrade).

 

I don't know of the exact angle, but from this site and other resources, I gathered that a level kit doesn't put additional strain on your drive line... if you start getting 3"+ that is when you start changing the angle enough to at least consider what you are doing... plenty of people have a larger lift and can tell you their experiences...I just wanted to keep it pretty simple, just differnt enough that it isn't 'stock'...if I wouldn't have got the midnight edition I would have upgraded my rims... but I liked them enough to keep them and save me a couple grand...

Posted

Well a buddy and I installed my RC 2.5" lift yesterday however I was an idiot and forgot the u-bolts for putting on the 3" blocks, so currently only have the 2" installed. It'll be January at least before we get back together and do the blocks. Smdh

 

d42645f67db0b3976d722d1a635f1bb8.jpg

 

Now I just need to figure out what tires I want to put on my 20" stocks.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Thank you! Stock 18". Personal preference but I like a little more rubber for the 4x4...plus they are cheaper for tires (and rims too if you decide to upgrade).

 

I don't know of the exact angle, but from this site and other resources, I gathered that a level kit doesn't put additional strain on your drive line... if you start getting 3"+ that is when you start changing the angle enough to at least consider what you are doing... plenty of people have a larger lift and can tell you their experiences...I just wanted to keep it pretty simple, just differnt enough that it isn't 'stock'...if I wouldn't have got the midnight edition I would have upgraded my rims... but I liked them enough to keep them and save me a couple grand...

do you happen to know what upper control arms you have?

Posted

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

Posted

Thank you! Stock 18". Personal preference but I like a little more rubber for the 4x4...plus they are cheaper for tires (and rims too if you decide to upgrade).

 

I don't know of the exact angle, but from this site and other resources, I gathered that a level kit doesn't put additional strain on your drive line... if you start getting 3"+ that is when you start changing the angle enough to at least consider what you are doing... plenty of people have a larger lift and can tell you their experiences...I just wanted to keep it pretty simple, just differnt enough that it isn't 'stock'...if I wouldn't have got the midnight edition I would have upgraded my rims... but I liked them enough to keep them and save me a couple grand...

You're welcome. I agree on the size. IMO, the rim should only be big enough to make sure the sidewall isn't too big for on-road stability. Funny enough I parked next to a Midnight Z71 this afternoon. Sure do like those black wheels. Mine may get a similar treatment if the wife doesn't find out first. ;)

Posted

I just bought a 2017 Z71, has the 20" wheels and I would like to possibly install wheel spacers, fender flares, and bigger, wider tires on the stock wheels. Do I also need a leveling kit, and what's the biggest tire size I can run without rubbing?

Thanks in advance

Posted

I just bought a 2017 Z71, has the 20" wheels and I would like to possibly install wheel spacers, fender flares, and bigger, wider tires on the stock wheels. Do I also need a leveling kit, and what's the biggest tire size I can run without rubbing?

Thanks in advance

 

Dan,

 

Just be advised that there are GM warranty issues with the addition of lift kits.

  • Like 1
Posted

What is the difference in the Rough Country 2" leveling kit 1307 (cast lower control arms) and 1308 (aluminum lower control arms)?

I need to know the difference in the kits itself if anyone knows. Thank you and Merry Christmas

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Finally replaced my oem 1.25" blocks with 1.5" and without driving it yet it netted me a 3/4" lift. Will see what it settles to after a few miles on it. Did one side at a time and was not a difficult job at all. Took me about 1.5 hours without power tools. d297efe1b5153d6eabe5ab50e14516c6.jpgb491f7f31bec36008e9643d154d98406.jpgcc1665ddb9c55d35a07e6c289d99dbae.jpg1fa4839bed0462fb08abea1aae3ba843.jpg030e54e9b3392fd73753ab2554638032.jpg6aced05af1a710a61b803417a31e3499.jpg8237b37f12fd9597e430432c545cf48c.jpg9c4f2b0067d86fef682cb130f3c463e6.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

What is the difference in the Rough Country 2" leveling kit 1307 (cast lower control arms) and 1308 (aluminum lower control arms)?

I need to know the difference in the kits itself if anyone knows. Thank you and Merry Christmas

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

From what i have read, just longer bolts come with the aluminum kit. I bought that one before my truck came in and mine has steel arms. I didn't have an issue installing them.

Edited by CptMcSaug
  • Like 1
Posted

where you able to reuse the factory U bolts

Yup! Still using factory U bolts. Remember how they said it was a PITA to line up the block with leafspring. That was my fear but not a biggy; simply make sure the shocks are not getting caught with the differential hanger and raise the jack slowly then with my other hand I was a able to move the diff a bit to position and bammm they snapped in together. ca5a3c0de444403d4d6ac6dc2d181817.jpgd5280277e0cda4058f3ded1ed50fe1e7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 593 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...