Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bare with me...I'm new here. I wanted to post a few pics since this forum has helped me figure out what I wanted to go with. Hopefully, this will help someone else out. I was looking to level my front end without giving up any ride quality, as well as get a little bit bigger tire without losing any gas mileage. I wanted to/and will eventually go with a 295/55, but going from about 42 lbs per tire to about 61 lbs per tire seemed like a big jump. I was going to get a programmer, but I read that with these newer trucks, the dealership can tell if you had programmed it, even if you programmed back to stock, and it could void the warranty. So, I decided I'll wait until my warranty is up before I go with a heavier tire and a programmer. I went with the Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Ride Height Shocks at highest setting (about 1.86) and 275/60 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 on stock 20x9 GMC Wheels. The tires are not an LT, but are an XL, which means they are a 4-ply tire with an extra load rating. They ride about the same as the tires that came on the truck and are the same weight. I do a lot of highway driving with very little off road driving or towing, so I was ok with not going to an LT tire. As far as the 5100's go, couldn't be happier. I read that the ride would be stiffer, but better. Didn't understand what that would feel like until I drove it. Much better...no more bounce. Even my wife thinks it rides better. No rub at all.

I'm digging the Pepperdust. Planning to level mine here in a few weeks after I move, so it's nice to see someone else's in that color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

FYI. I just got off the phone with Jeremy at Zone and he told me that they will be coming out with a kit for the 2016 models but it is different from the 2014-2015 C9151 Zone 1.5" BL Kit. He said the bolts should be different and the parking brake bracket will be different and the new kit should be available "soon". That was the best he could offer me.

Yeah, the pass through for the E-brake cable needed to be cut out a little more than the instructions say, but it wasn't a big deal.

Posted

I'm digging the Pepperdust. Planning to level mine here in a few weeks after I move, so it's nice to see someone else's in that color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I went from Black to this and I love it!

Posted (edited)

Sorry Bad pic quality

 

2016 Z71 Double Cab

2.5in RC Leveling Kit With 2in Rear Block

Fuel Anza's 20x9 +20 Offset

BFG KO2 275/60/20

Magnum Rack With Lights

 

No rubbing or trimming

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpgpost-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpgpost-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

Edited by CraftsZ71
  • Like 1
Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

Posted

I hate to ask the question, but what do rear blocks do?

 

The rear blocks swap the stock 1.25" block under the leaf with a 2.25" block. Essentially lifting the rear end 1".

 

People refer to having added or not added the rear block because it's a common part in most level kits.

Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

You don't have rubbing issues with that size tire ?

Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

Who makes those fender flares?

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

I went with the rough country 2" level (front only) on my 15. Mainly because it was 49$ and took me an hour to install if you can get the front up on jack stands. This kit doesn't touch the back and looks to sit perfectly level. I will be going to offset wheels and wider tires this summer so we'll see what I can stuff in there haha. But anyways. I see no difference in the ride. I did the 2.5" on my 08 and that includes blocks for the rear which seem to stiffen that up a bit more. Third lift/level I've purchased from RC and no complaints. Lifetime warranty. And again. It was only 49$ !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Who makes those fender flares?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

You can order a new truck with them, or have them installed painted to match. I can't remember the name right now, but if you look on gm site, it is an option

You don't have rubbing issues with that size tire and?

Still working on that. Getting alignment tomorrow, then gonna check what needs to be trimmed. You ca order the 20x9's and possibly a 305/50/20 tire that is like 32", but I wanted them to come out to th flares. The offset I believe is -26

Posted

I went with the rough country 2" level (front only) on my 15. Mainly because it was 49$ and took me an hour to install if you can get the front up on jack stands. This kit doesn't touch the back and looks to sit perfectly level. I will be going to offset wheels and wider tires this summer so we'll see what I can stuff in there haha. But anyways. I see no difference in the ride. I did the 2.5" on my 08 and that includes blocks for the rear which seem to stiffen that up a bit more. Third lift/level I've purchased from RC and no complaints. Lifetime warranty. And again. It was only 49$ !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm also doing just the front but I got a 2.5" leveling kit. When I measured front and rear, I had like a 3 1/8" difference so I hope it comes out level. If not, I'll be ordering some 2" blocks. Plan on doing it this weekend if the weather is good.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 602 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...