Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2.5 is safe? Yeah it looks good and if it is strictly for the street it could probably last for a long while to but if your suspension could talk I am sure it would bu cussing, it is only incrementally better for your front end than a 3 inch kit...

 

Tyler

Posted

Anybody running Mickey Thompson LT305/55R20 Tire, BAJA ATZP3 on a 2017 Midnight? Had those on my old truck and thinking about buying them again.

Posted

I am getting the 2.5" suspensionmaxx installed on Friday, I know it has been covered a few times but I have held off on getting tires since I want to know the best (biggest) tire size to run without major trimming. Based off a few of the set ups on here I am planning to run 275/65r20 on the factory wheels (+27 offset) yet does anyone have any more insight on this? Would I be better off going a different route?

Posted (edited)

I'm gettin the RC 2.5" soon, trouble is, I can't decide which wheels to go with for my tungsten metallic.....apologies for the minor threadjack

Edited by Jaycreek7908
Posted

Motofab 2.5 Installed, needs bigger tires now...

 

18527975_10155565329107323_6032379839735

  • Like 1
Posted

I am getting the 2.5" suspensionmaxx installed on Friday, I know it has been covered a few times but I have held off on getting tires since I want to know the best (biggest) tire size to run without major trimming. Based off a few of the set ups on here I am planning to run 275/65r20 on the factory wheels (+27 offset) yet does anyone have any more insight on this? Would I be better off going a different route?

What tires did you go with 207?

Posted

What tires did you go with 207?

I have been holding out still, I was hoping to get some more feedback from other members. Now that the truck's leveled I need to get something ordered, I am pretty sure 275/65/KO2's will be the move.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah the KO2s, Toyo AT2, Nitto Terra Grappler, Cooper AT3 or a similar All Terrain tire minimize the chance of rubbing. More aggressive MT or RT tires will most likely rub.

Posted

Yeah the KO2s, Toyo AT2, Nitto Terra Grappler, Cooper AT3 or a similar All Terrain tire minimize the chance of rubbing. More aggressive MT or RT tires will most likely rub.

What are you running for a set up?

Posted

What are you running for a set up?

I have a 2.5 inch level kit with Bilstein 5100's set at 0 lift with Toyo Open Country RT 33x12.5's on stock All Terrain 20's. Have slight rub at full lock while turning in reverse.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have been holding out still, I was hoping to get some more feedback from other members. Now that the truck's leveled I need to get something ordered, I am pretty sure 275/65/KO2's will be the move.

 

If you like the K02s check out the falken wildpeak a/t3w tires. I bought a set about a month ago and I love them. They look similar to the K02s but at a much better price and have a 55k mile warranty. I only paid $170.99 each for LT285/70R17 10 ply at discount tire since they price matched a sale I found online.

 

http://www.falkentire.com/tires/light-truck-suv-cuv-tires/wildpeak/t3w-tire

  • Like 1
Posted

Just had my leveling kit installed today!! I love it!! 2017 Silverado 1500 LT Allstar Edition

 

2d8bfe80d670024c8c15f1eacd2ccc83.jpg742b081b85b5a399d9f45a00ab06f3bc.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

I have been holding out still, I was hoping to get some more feedback from other members. Now that the truck's leveled I need to get something ordered, I am pretty sure 275/65/KO2's will be the move.

Excellent choice.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...