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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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99-ls1-ss Enthusiast

99-ls1-ss

Posted
Posted

I finally got some new tires and was able to get rid of the crappy factory tires. I have a 2" Rough Country leveling kit on the front and a 3" block on the rear (which only raises the rear 1" since it comes with a 2" block from the factory).

 

I ended up going with the BFG All Terrain KO's. I have had a lot of luck with these tires. They are 275/65 20's. I think it really made the truck look better.

 

The pictures are a little dark. I should have taken them in better light.

YWpPOj9.jpg

LwsW5Tv.jpg

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted

I finally got some new tires and was able to get rid of the crappy factory tires. I have a 2" Rough Country leveling kit on the front and a 3" block on the rear (which only raises the rear 1" since it comes with a 2" block from the factory).

 

I ended up going with the BFG All Terrain KO's. I have had a lot of luck with these tires. They are 275/65 20's. I think it really made the truck look better.

 

The pictures are a little dark. I should have taken them in better light.

 

YWpPOj9.jpg

 

LwsW5Tv.jpg

Truck looks great but I thought the OEM rear blocks we're around 1"... At least that's what I thought mine were.
dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

Got the 2" Rough County leveling kit, WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS TO INSTALL!! Started Friday night at 7pm and wasn't able to finish until 11am the next day. Obviously I slept in the time period. Probably 6 hours total. First, I didn't have the correct 7/32 allen wrench, you need to have one with a 90 degree bend in it to clear the half shaft boot. Second, the allen screw on the drivers upper ball joint was stripped from the factory and I couldn't get the upper control arm back on the knuckle!! Was about to go buy a new upper control arm until I decided to search the internet for a solution.

 

IF YOU RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM, use a C-clamp and clamp the upper control arm down onto the knuckle. This allowed me to put the ball joint nut on. I was them able to torque the nut down to spec. It almost turned into a nightmare job luckily it didn't.

 

ALSO, I didn't need a 16mm wrench and the lug nut size is a 22mm deep well, not a 21mm.

 

Question: the power steering connectors where super hard to get off. Once I got them back on, they were then really easy to take off. Did I mess those up?

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted

Truck looks great but I thought the OEM rear blocks we're around 1"... At least that's what I thought mine were.

 

They are 1"

mrhonestlyinsane Enthusiast

mrhonestlyinsane

Posted
Posted

Got the 2" Rough County leveling kit, WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS TO INSTALL!! Started Friday night at 7pm and wasn't able to finish until 11am the next day. Obviously I slept in the time period. Probably 6 hours total. First, I didn't have the correct 7/32 allen wrench, you need to have one with a 90 degree bend in it to clear the half shaft boot. Second, the allen screw on the drivers upper ball joint was stripped from the factory and I couldn't get the upper control arm back on the knuckle!! Was about to go buy a new upper control arm until I decided to search the internet for a solution.

 

IF YOU RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM, use a C-clamp and clamp the upper control arm down onto the knuckle. This allowed me to put the ball joint nut on. I was them able to torque the nut down to spec. It almost turned into a nightmare job luckily it didn't.

 

ALSO, I didn't need a 16mm wrench and the lug nut size is a 22mm deep well, not a 21mm.

 

Question: the power steering connectors where super hard to get off. Once I got them back on, they were then really easy to take off. Did I mess those up?

As with anything it takes longer the first time. Should be able to do this in 1.5 hours tops on a floor jack and way less than that if you have a lift. As with alot of projects the internet can be your friend as you have found.

If you can slide the connectors off without touching the locking tab . You broke the locks. Otherwise you should be fine

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dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

As with anything it takes longer the first time. Should be able to do this in 1.5 hours tops on a floor jack and way less than that if you have a lift. As with alot of projects the internet can be your friend as you have found.

If you can slide the connectors off without touching the locking tab . You broke the locks. Otherwise you should be fine

Yea I think I broke the locks then. Any suggestions on how to fix?

 

 

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Phi Shoe Enthusiast

Phi Shoe

Posted
Posted (edited)

266e1c16ba7eab1566d67896ac25355e.jpg

Just added a 2" RC level and some new kicks. 20x9 fuel beasts on 305/50/20 nitro trail graps. Love how it came out.

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Did you have any rub? I ordered same size tires in a toyo AT what was your wheel offset as that's the same wheel size as well Edited by Phi Shoe
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Silveradoh Enthusiast

Silveradoh

Posted
Posted

Did you have any rub? I ordered same size tires in a toyo AT

No rubbing, trimming, rides really good actually. I was a little worried about the ride going to a lower profile, but I've been really happy with them.

 

 

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Phi Shoe Enthusiast

Phi Shoe

Posted
Posted

No rubbing, trimming, rides really good actually. I was a little worried about the ride going to a lower profile, but I've been really happy with them.

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Thanks what's the wheel offset that's the same size wheel I ordered as well

Silveradoh Enthusiast

Silveradoh

Posted
Posted

Thanks what's the wheel offset that's the same size wheel I ordered as well

I bought them used so I'm not positive, but it comes in +1 and +18 if I remember correctly.

 

 

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'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

Yea I think I broke the locks then. Any suggestions on how to fix?

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I did the same thing. I've looked everywhere for new connectors and nobody has them. I'm just going to use silicone to hold them together. The thing is, you don't need to disconnect those plugs anyway. Found that out later. Pissed me off too.

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dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

I did the same thing. I've looked everywhere for new connectors and nobody has them. I'm just going to use silicone to hold them together. The thing is, you don't need to disconnect those plugs anyway. Found that out later. Pissed me off too.

Heh, that is exactly what I did. Put a glob of silicone on the outside to hold them on. Should be fine, I'm not to worried about it. I will check it at every oil change. They make liquid electrical tape, I might try that if the silicone doesn't work.

 

 

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Jaycreek7908 Enthusiast

Jaycreek7908

Posted
Posted

I went with a 2"level from Summit Performance on ebay. Solid powdercoat on aluminum lower spacer. With the 275/70 Cooper AT3's(not on in photos) it really has a great look

post-165009-0-34535000-1497552502_thumb.jpg

post-165009-0-34535000-1497552502_thumb.jpg

post-165009-0-34535000-1497552502_thumb.jpg

post-165009-0-34535000-1497552502_thumb.jpg

Bobaloo22 Enthusiast

Bobaloo22

Posted
Posted

A friend from work just put a 2" level on his truck and used a block of wood under the strut and jacked it up enough to fit the level block in. He said only took about an hour total, said to be careful sliding the block in.

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