Jump to content

2014 rough engine idle


janecka1

Recommended Posts

Posted

Same ol', same ol' after 8 years ... :rolleyes:

 

My '07 did the exact same thing. Off the showroom floor this thing was as smooth as glass, then around 2k miles or so, I noticed the miss/shake at idle while in a car wash, waiting for it to turn on. 8 years later at 77k miles, it's still doing the same. Dealer brushed it off as "nothing" back then. Guess there's no point in buying new, since they "ALL" do it!

 

All my carbureted vehicles idled smoother than this, once warmed up a bit.

  • Replies 167
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

My 2015 vibrates a little at idle after being warmed up. But It's also idling below 500rpm with foot on the brake and A/C going. I've moved the shifter up to neutral, revs pick up, all vibrations went away. It's just the motor resonating on the frame from what I can tell. It bothered me when I first bought it, it's got 5300 miles now and I rarely pay attention to it anymore.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

My 2015 LTZ CC 4x4 idles very rough. I am taking it in the weekend for the first oil change so i am going to get them to look at the rough idle. I am also having trouble with my heated/cooled seats. Cant feel them at all even on high. I will keep y'all updated on what they say about my rough idle!

Posted

My buddy's 14 LT 5.3 has a terrible vibration at idle compared to mine. His truck has 32k on it. Mine has 18 now and I just put a CC on it, as well as treated it with some CRC engine valve cleaner. It seems like mine is idling smoother now.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I bought my 2015 Silverado about three weeks ago and noticed vibration at idle on my drive home. After a few google searches and this this forum I found TSB PIP5211C. This bulletin just came out in July 2015 and replaced PIP5211B. They installed 3mm shims on the motor mounts and the tech noted it fixed the vibration. Won't know until I pick it up tomorrow, since they are also replacing the front passenger a pilar cover because there was a gap where it meets the dash. Love my truck and I'm hoping this fixes it. So far service has been excellent. I also had them align the front bumper since the gap looked pretty big. They sent to a body shop and it was adjusted and looks perfect now. My dealer has been good and offered to put me in a rental since the truck has been in since yesterday and won't be ready until tomorrow.

Posted

You would think all these little issues would be taken care of BEFORE the truck:

 

  • A: left the point of assembly
  • B: left the dealership as customer took delivery.

 

That is just unacceptable. Two failures of QC that could easily be remedied. Great the dealer made things right ... but for $45- $60 LARGE, that all should've been fixed before you even LOOKED at it.

 

GM had better damn pick up the ball ...

Posted

Picked it up, truck still vibrates. Feeling pretty pissed since the truck only has like 500 miles on it. My buddy bought one two weeks before me, no vibrations. Rode in my brother-in-law's last night, no vibrations. They rode in mine and joked how I get a free massage at a stop. I wasn't amused. Plan on taking it back tomorrow. As far as the a pillar gap they said they would have to remove and adjust the dash, I told them I didn't want to open that can of worms. I can live with gap, can't live with vibrations since I keep my vehicles for about ten years. We'll see, this if my first GM, I love the truck, but can't live with the vibrations.

Posted

GM considers this "normal" - just like a brand new sub-500-mile vehicle that burns a quart of oil every 800 miles ... :nonod:

Posted

I took the truck back and the dealer is being very helpful. They are going to try new motor mounts to see if it takes care of the problem, if not they said they would get me full credit for my truck and let my pick out another truck. They ordered the new mounts and I have an appointment for Monday morning. I'll update when the new mounts are installed. Very happy the dealer is on my side.

Posted

Well that's some great news!

 

So often we hear of it going the other way ... nice to hear a good story for a change. :thumbs::cheers:

Posted

I took the truck back and the dealer is being very helpful. They are going to try new motor mounts to see if it takes care of the problem, if not they said they would get me full credit for my truck and let my pick out another truck. They ordered the new mounts and I have an appointment for Monday morning. I'll update when the new mounts are installed. Very happy the dealer is on my side.

thats very lucky, another thing they should check is the exhaust system. I know this is for the V6 model, but maybe the basics still apply?

 

http://oemdtc.com/6392/information-on-vibration-analysis-and-diagnostic-2014-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra/8

 

Condition 5:

Vibration Felt in 4 Cyl Mode (AFM) – V6 Engine OnlySeveral customers have commented on a vibration felt in the steering wheel or seat during 4 Cylinder Active Fuel Management (AFM) operation. This can be noticed more at 64-72 km/h (40-45 mph) and by lightly accelerating to the point where the enginetransitions to 6 cylinders, or V6 mode.

This type of vibration can be the result of exhaust cross pipe ground out and/or cab mount ground out.

To repair this condition, the three-way catalytic converter settling procedure in PIP5228: Vibration During Active Fuel Management V4 Mode Operation 1200–1400 Engine RPM should be completed.

I have rough idle in my V6 as well, here is a video I took to show it.

Posted

Well, they replaced the motor mounts, truck was the same...They then let me drive another truck for a few days and if it didn't vibrate, they would let me trade it. Drove the newer truck, and no vibration problems in idle or on the highway. Truck has an MSRP of about $1k more, which I was willing to pay. Went in last night to do the deal and they wanted me to pay 2k more. Why? Because one of the rebates I got on the original deal was 1k for using Ally. I refied the loan from 3.19 to 1.74, so not they won't let me finance with Ally again to get the rebate because "they've seen the risk." I said no to the deal and asked for my truck back. They told me to keep driving the truck until Monday, when we can all meet. I told the dealer operator I would be happy to pay the MSRP difference, but did not want to lose the 1k in rebate value because I refied. There were was nothing in any of the paperwork about not being able to refinance. We'll see what happens Monday.

Posted

Well, they replaced the motor mounts, truck was the same...They then let me drive another truck for a few days and if it didn't vibrate, they would let me trade it. Drove the newer truck, and no vibration problems in idle or on the highway. Truck has an MSRP of about $1k more, which I was willing to pay. Went in last night to do the deal and they wanted me to pay 2k more. Why? Because one of the rebates I got on the original deal was 1k for using Ally. I refied the loan from 3.19 to 1.74, so not they won't let me finance with Ally again to get the rebate because "they've seen the risk." I said no to the deal and asked for my truck back. They told me to keep driving the truck until Monday, when we can all meet. I told the dealer operator I would be happy to pay the MSRP difference, but did not want to lose the 1k in rebate value because I refied. There were was nothing in any of the paperwork about not being able to refinance. We'll see what happens Monday.

This is part of my post over in the vibration thread

After driving my truck for a while I will say that the rough idle fix that they performed (PIP5228; adjust exhaust and body cab mounts) has definitely helped, but the vibe is still there, just no where near as bad. Unfortunately, I think that it may have made the regular vibration slightly worse. I am theorizing that it is because the frequency of the rough idle vibe is no longer canceling out the frequency of the regular vibe, obviously I don't know this for sure. my other theory is whatever they did to the body cab mounts made it worse.

Here are the videos to compare the rough idle before and after fix (they are not the exact same, so you will have to adjust the frames so they are close to the same)

Pre fix:

Post fix:

Posted

Well, the is going to pay off my truck. I am going to pay for the difference in MSRP and we are splitting the difference on the rebate. I'll be paying about $1500.00 more total. Truck doesn't vibrate, test drove it for a few days. Non vibrating truck, 20" wheel upgrade, and chrome exhaust tip. I get to finance with the credit union and they are moving aftermarket running boards and respraying the bed liner on the truck for me. Happy with the deal.

Posted

Well, the is going to pay off my truck. I am going to pay for the difference in MSRP and we are splitting the difference on the rebate. I'll be paying about $1500.00 more total. Truck doesn't vibrate, test drove it for a few days. Non vibrating truck, 20" wheel upgrade, and chrome exhaust tip. I get to finance with the credit union and they are moving aftermarket running boards and respraying the bed liner on the truck for me. Happy with the deal.

I wouldn't be happy with that, you shouldn't be paying anything more than the difference in MSRP, on a trade assist, the rebates don't matter GM is basically making you a new truck and taking your old one.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • A while back, my truck (2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3) went in for an o2 sensor and routine service. The tech identified that my rear output seal on my transfer case was leaking, and recommended I have them replace it. At the time I didn't think anything of it, and had them do the repair. Less than a month later, I noticed that the recently repaired seal was leaking again. I called the shop that did the repair and they warrantied the repair and replaced the same seal again. A few months later, I noticed that once again the same seal leak had come back. It wasn't a great time to bring it in and I ended up just living with it for 6 months or so, noticing small (smaller than a baseball) size oil stains below the truck when it would sit for a while, as well as oil spray on the frame (to the point where it actually took the underbody coating off in that one spot). Finally got around to brining it in again, but this time I took it to a dealership service center since I am in a different part of the state for school. They identified the same output seal leaks and recommended they replace them. They also said there was no scoring on the inside of the transfer case, so it didn't need to be replaced. They chalked up the original repair failures to non oem seals and a job that wasn't done correctly. Now they called and said the seals are holding after driving/sitting for a while, but they found a very small leak in the middle, that they recommended they seal with some kind of silicone/jb weld (not sure what they are using). I haven't picked up the truck yet, but I have been reluctant about this whole repair process because I feel like they are just fixing the same thing that keeps coming back, and I am concerned there could be another root cause for the seal failing. Has anybody else experienced anything like this, or have any ideas on other things that could be the root cause?
    • I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...