Jump to content

2014 rough engine idle


janecka1

Recommended Posts

Posted

Shimmed 3mm then huh? wow that is like NOT MUCH LOL. Probaly found the mount was lose or something, your engine could have turned upside down right in the engine bay or fallen out right on the road. Good thing you caught this man. Great info on this forum big time saver resource if you an issue and you get the standard oh that is normal for this truck from your dealership.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 167
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Just dropped my truck at the dealer. There is a bulletin on this vibration issue. I saw some of the paperwork and it said something about re-centering the engine/transmission on the mounts and shim the motor 3mm.

 

So they're gonna work on it. I'll report back after.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone.

Posted

Just dropped my truck at the dealer. There is a bulletin on this vibration issue. I saw some of the paperwork and it said something about re-centering the engine/transmission on the mounts and shim the motor 3mm.

 

So they're gonna work on it. I'll report back after.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone.

Does your truck have the rough idle when it's been running for a while? My truck does it after it's been running for a while and I come to a stop. Also it does it when there is incline. Did your dealer pull up the bulletin? Thanks

 

Planning on taking it tomorrow morning.

Posted

Just dropped my truck at the dealer. There is a bulletin on this vibration issue. I saw some of the paperwork and it said something about re-centering the engine/transmission on the mounts and shim the motor 3mm.

So they're gonna work on it. I'll report back after.

Sent from my iPhone.

Does your truck have the rough idle when it's been running for a while? My truck does it after it's been running for a while and I come to a stop. Also it does it when there is incline. Did your dealer pull up the bulletin? Thanks

Planning on taking it tomorrow morning.

 

 

Yes. The bulletin says it's caused by the motor and transmission not being centered on the mounts correctly. This causing resonance aka vibrations. They need to measure to recenter and then use shims to space the motor mounts 3mm.

 

It's not really that the engine is idling rough. But mine had a vibration when in P, R, N, D. Was more prevalent after the truck was at operating temperature.

 

I forgot to write down the bulletin number. But just take it in to the dealer and ask them to look it up. Luckily, my dealer is very helpful and responsive

 

 

Sent from my iPhone.

Posted

Yes. The bulletin says it's caused by the motor and transmission not being centered on the mounts correctly. This causing resonance aka vibrations. They need to measure to recenter and then use shims to space the motor mounts 3mm. It's not really that the engine is idling rough. But mine had a vibration when in P, R, N, D. Was more prevalent after the truck was at operating temperature. I forgot to write down the bulletin number. But just take it in to the dealer and ask them to look it up. Luckily, my dealer is very helpful and responsive Sent from my iPhone.

Thanks. At the dealer now said they will take a look at it. Hope they don't give me a hassle. Did you get your truck back the same day?

Posted

Yes. The bulletin says it's caused by the motor and transmission not being centered on the mounts correctly. This causing resonance aka vibrations. They need to measure to recenter and then use shims to space the motor mounts 3mm. It's not really that the engine is idling rough. But mine had a vibration when in P, R, N, D. Was more prevalent after the truck was at operating temperature. I forgot to write down the bulletin number. But just take it in to the dealer and ask them to look it up. Luckily, my dealer is very helpful and responsive Sent from my iPhone.

 

Thanks. At the dealer now said they will take a look at it. Hope they don't give me a hassle. Did you get your truck back the same day?

 

 

No. I just dropped it yesterday at 2:00. After about an hour my service writer came and said he wants to give me a loaner. I hope to get the truck back today.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone.

Posted

No. I just dropped it yesterday at 2:00. After about an hour my service writer came and said he wants to give me a loaner. I hope to get the truck back today.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone.

 

fondupot,

 

Service guy asked me if i was going to wait for it.... that it might be a 3 to 4 hour job. Asked the service guy if he can pull up the bulletin but said only the techs can. So we shall see.

Posted

yea hopefully I hear back from them today.

Service guy just came in and told me they found the bulletin and have started working on it. Said it will take a little while... so i believe you will get yours today. I'm waiting here on mines so shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 hours i believe.

Posted

Got the truck back already just under 2 1/2 hours. Got home sat there for a few minutes on the incline and idle wasnt rough. And seems to have fixed the issue. Wont know until later today for sure when i drive it for a while.

Posted

Got the truck back already just under 2 1/2 hours. Got home sat there for a few minutes on the incline and idle wasnt rough. And seems to have fixed the issue. Wont know until later today for sure when i drive it for a while.

 

Did they find anything wrong and what corrective action was taken?

Posted

 

Did they find anything wrong and what corrective action was taken?

Just went to the dealer and told them that after my truck has been running for a while or reaches normal operating temperature, it idles rough.... i showed them what fondupot posted about the bulletin of the shimming the engine 3mm and they looked up the bulletin. They went ahead and fixed the right side of it engine mounts by shimming 3mm between the engine and the plate??? Ill check when i get home. But ive been driving for awhile now and it seems to have fixed the issue

Posted

Got my truck back too.

 

Honestly, feels the exact same when sitting at idle. The motor isn't idling rough, they checked for stored misfire codes, so I guess everything is fine.

 

But they did the bulletin re-centering the trans and motor mounts and shimming the motor mount. Feels exactly the same though.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.
    • still $4.00 85 oct.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...