Jump to content

2014 rough engine idle

janecka1

By janecka1
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

WhiteLTZ14 Enthusiast

WhiteLTZ14

Posted
Posted

Got my truck back too.

 

Honestly, feels the exact same when sitting at idle. The motor isn't idling rough, they checked for stored misfire codes, so I guess everything is fine.

 

But they did the bulletin re-centering the trans and motor mounts and shimming the motor mount. Feels exactly the same though.

Well just got home after a long drive and the truck doesn't feel as it did before but the somewhat rough idle is still there but its not as bad as it was. Before i could literally see my hands vibrate along with the truck... when i had my 07 tahoe it had the same rough idle feeling to it but it went away after 10k miles on it... my 09 tahoe and 09 silverado were very smooth though... oh well hope it goes away soon after it gets "broken in"
  • Replies 167
  • Created
  • Last Reply
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Mine feels exactly the same. I'm starting to think they didn't do anything to the truck. Just had it for a day and said they did.....

 

Annoyed. :fume:

WhiteLTZ14 Enthusiast

WhiteLTZ14

Posted
Posted

Mine feels exactly the same. I'm starting to think they didn't do anything to the truck. Just had it for a day and said they did.....

 

Annoyed. :fume:

I've been driving the truck for a few days now and it actually is alot better now... dont feel the rough idle anymore. Maybe take it to another dealer and see what they say.

ken0072603 New Member

ken0072603

Posted
Posted

Just dropped my truck at the dealer. There is a bulletin on this vibration issue. I saw some of the paperwork and it said something about re-centering the engine/transmission on the mounts and shim the motor 3mm. So they're gonna work on it. I'll report back after. Sent from my iPhone.

 

I myself dropped the truck off Friday for the same issue. I did the cup of water test just like the other owner. My dealer said nothing is wrong with the engine. He acknowledged the bulletin for the V-8, but since I have the V-6, there is no fix. He said more owners of the V-6 would need to complain to get a fix. Any ideas?

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Yea, my truck is still acting the same. Not sure about the V6 issue. But the motors are all pretty similar apart from 2 less cylinders on a V6. So my guess is something internally is causing excess vibrations....not exactly good for longevity.

 

I have to go in for an oil change soon, I'm wondering if it will change as the motor breaks in more. I currently have about 5300 miles on the truck.

clearstreamservices New Member

clearstreamservices

Posted
Posted

I had same rough idling issue, in drive, foot on brake. I took delivery on 2/13/14, noticed idle around 480-490 and rough, if touched gas pedal just a little, vibration went away. After reading about case on this forum, I asked dealer to perform 3mm shim on 2/19/14 , helped but still felt like a misfire. I was busy with work and did not have another day to be without my truck. After a few weeks and 1,200 miles, seems like it has corrected itself. If anyone has any insight, please share...computer corrected the problem itself?

beetle Enthusiast

beetle

Posted
Posted

This is just a longshot theory....the gas may have degraded since installed at the factory, look at the build date on the door sticker, it could have been in there for quite a while. Mine had a slight limp too but cleared after a few tanks.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I dont think there area any issues with the engines misfiring. Its more of a harmonic balance issue with the way the motor is mounted to the frame. My truck performs great and gets terrific mileage. if it was misfiring, it would be stumbling and getting crappy mileage and throwing engine codes. It's not doing any of those.

 

This is purely a balance issue and will probably require some finesse on to get it worked out.

 

I'm heading back into the dealer soon to have my oil changed and have them look at this issue again.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Dropped my truck off again on Wednesday. I'm driving a loaner sierra to compare and this truck does NOT vibrate at all. It's very smooth. It's a crew cab, SLE with standard bed. IT has 18" wheels and its a regular 4x4, and has 3.08 gears. I have to say it rides a little nicer than my truck with the 20's and Z71 package, not to mention my truck has a shorter wheelbase. But my truck with the 3.42 gears gets up and goes way better. But that's to be expected.

 

Anyways, I sat in the loaner with my service guy and he agreed. This loaner truck does not vibrate.

 

So I called today to see how it was going and they said they almost have the vibrations eliminated from my truck. He assured me that the motor is running fine its not throwing any codes, misfiring, or running rough at any capacity, its just an issue of harmonic balancing with the engine/trans mounts to the frame. He said they consulted the GM Engineering department that handles Bulletins and what not and they have been working with them towards a resolution. When I talked to him today he said they had one more thing to do get rid of the vibrations and they were waiting to hear back from GM.

 

Overall I am pleased with the level of service I am receiving from my dealership. I feel like they are 100% on my side and agree the truck should not vibrate on idle as it does, they are working to make sure the truck is up to spec and that I am left with a smooth idling truck.

 

I'll post up again when I get the truck back. Hopefully, with no more idle vibrations.

 

-Out

TonesInGMC Enthusiast

TonesInGMC

Posted
Posted

Mine doesn't vibrate. Not much anyway but I can here a bit of tick. Is that normal for you other guys? I've got a 5.3

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

 

Dnt Senior Enthusiast

Dnt

Posted
Posted

Mine doesn't vibrate. Not much anyway but I can here a bit of tick. Is that normal for you other guys? I've got a 5.3 Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

I think all the direct injection engines have a TICK. (Note: "GM has these on a ticking timer and programmed to blow up at 100,001 miles) No seriously the direct injection pump and injectors are VERY noisy they made a lot of sound insulation efforts at the engine but it cannot be completely eliminated. Without the sound covers it would be unbearable. I would not purchase mine after hearing it idle until I started about 1/2 dozen 5.3's on the lot they all had the TICK noise, some were louder than others I would say that mine is around the middle.

On the main subject here of the engine vibration I am going to do that cup of water test on mine today. I find it fascinating that a 3mm shim could actually make a difference. i suspect that there may be some other issue along with the shim that is causing the vibration, maybe a fastener torque problem or frame mount misalignment on certain monday and friday build trucks....... What is your build date for your truck fondupot?

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Got my truck back yesterday afternoon. They recentered everything again and it seems to be better. Before the vibrations would almost surge. They would hit hard, then subside. Now there is a constant slight vibe that lets you know the truck is on. Not nearly as bad before they did the shim. While it was in I had my first free oil change, tire rotation and inspection. They used Dexos spec 0W20 oil and a GM filter. Filled it perfectly. I'm very satisfied with my dealership. Im always hesitant when I hear the horror stories people post on here about crappy dealers.

 

I can tell you Fox Valley Buick GMC in St. Charles, IL is top notch. And I'd recommend them to anyone in the Chicago area.

 

I'm done obsessing on this issue now. The truck is running top notch, and I cant expect a huge V8 to not cause even a slight vibration.

 

MyFavTruck, my build date is August 2013.

Dnt Senior Enthusiast

Dnt

Posted
Posted

I agree with you, it can turn into an obsession, my water in the cup test went well no shaking of the water. Now I have to make myself forget about it. It is like you say a V8 power beast truck. Let it growl a bit, it is its nature. What was that old fable about the frog and the scorpion?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fishbones
      2012 Sierra 1500 AC issues

      By Fishbones · Posted

      I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      For some unexplained reason my father wanted a salvage yard. As we were getting the family business off the ground one brother ran the salvage yard. We gathered there when rained out working on pipelines in the eighties to pull parts. Perfectly good running vehicles would come to us simply because they wouldn’t pass emissions inspection. We were able to swap parts and sell some of them. I got a clean old nova with a bad engine. I pulled a perfectly good small block out a Camaro. A father and son project with a rebuilt engine. The son couldn’t get the engine running right. The problem was the spark plugs weren’t gapped. The 90s vehicles probably widened the gap of shade tree do it yourself engine repair. My do it yourself hot rod repair stopped at the 70s. After that my trusted mechanic kept them in running shape. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back.   When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking?   Where do you hide the jar of teeth?   I would never.   
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out.   I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter.   Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube"   Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone.   Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer.   --   Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone.   The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...