Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm going to change the name of the thread from "What have you done to your '14 today?" to "What have you done to your K2 today?" considering they have 2015's out now as well. Thanks for the understanding!

I was just think about this the other day.
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Installed my new Airaid Cold Air Intake. Super easy to do and sounds great when I get on the throttle!

afdd034d87b6bcb029d71c1faf25de8a.jpg

Edited by SolomonAKOO
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Got the GPS issue fixed and detailed yesterday (Yes, I noticed the condensation, spent 2 hours that night till 2 AM drying everything up lol):

 

post-134831-0-12299100-1422591465_thumb.jpg

 

Removed the amber running signal and replaced the signal lights with LEDs

 

post-134831-0-81876400-1422591468_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-12299100-1422591465_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-81876400-1422591468_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-12299100-1422591465_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-81876400-1422591468_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-12299100-1422591465_thumb.jpg

post-134831-0-81876400-1422591468_thumb.jpg

Edited by morrislee
  • Like 1
Posted

Got the GPS issue fixed and detailed yesterday (Yes, I noticed the condensation, spent 2 hours that night till 2 AM drying everything up lol):

 

attachicon.gif2015-01-28 19.15.53.jpg

 

Removed the amber running signal and replaced the signal lights with LEDs

 

attachicon.gif2015-01-29 19.46.02.jpg

 

 

I should've kept that amber running light trick to myself! It makes the truck look so much meaner.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Mike , please do share :) how did you do this ? Thanks broski

Edited by f8l vnm
Posted

Cut the wire.

Which wire? Would this work with the Silverado?

Got the GPS issue fixed and detailed yesterday (Yes, I noticed the condensation, spent 2 hours that night till 2 AM drying everything up lol):

 

attachicon.gif2015-01-28 19.15.53.jpg

 

Removed the amber running signal and replaced the signal lights with LEDs

 

attachicon.gif2015-01-29 19.46.02.jpg

Looks like a mean transformer without the yellow light. [emoji106]
Posted (edited)

^Yes I would like to know how you disable those lights toooo!

Cut the wire.

Which wire? Would this work with the Silverado?

Looks like a mean transformer without the yellow light. [emoji106]

Mike , please do share :) how did you do this ? Thanks broski

For the Sierra you'll have to pull the headlight out to make this a lot simpler. DangerDick is correct, you have to cut the GREEN wire on both sides as that is your running light wire.

 

I have some wiring running back into the cab now that allows me to turn the ambers on and off when the running lights are on so if I ever want them on, I just have to flip a switch [emoji4]

 

Here's a picture of my harness:

280C9F13-6EC0-4D71-9B47-21290E8AA04B_zps

 

I have the VLED V3 triton. I really like how this set up works because it makes the blinker much more noticeable (well, mine is easily noticeable without the disabling mod cause it's so damn bright!)

 

You will NOT get a hyperflash and NO OTHER FUNCTIONS WILL BE AFFECTED. The only thing that will happen is you will no longer have amber running lights [emoji106] as I said, turn signals and hazards still work just fine.

 

Just a few more pictures to show what it looks like

 

27550D66-1F6C-4715-9B35-241B75519A89_zps

B1AA1369-E9CC-43FF-8834-F005531B802B_zps

7C9661B8-2A5D-4E7C-AAAF-930290D3C588_zps

Edited by Mike1220
  • Like 1
Posted

For the Sierra you'll have to pull the headlight out to make this a lot simpler. DangerDick is correct, you have to cut the GREEN wire on both sides as that is your running light wire.

 

I have some wiring running back into the cab now that allows me to turn the ambers on and off when the running lights are on so if I ever want them on, I just have to flip a switch [emoji4]

 

Here's a picture of my harness:

280C9F13-6EC0-4D71-9B47-21290E8AA04B_zps

 

I have the VLED V3 triton. I really like how this set up works because it makes the blinker much more noticeable (well, mine is easily noticeable without the disabling mod cause it's so damn bright!)

 

You will NOT get a hyperflash and NO OTHER FUNCTIONS WILL BE AFFECTED. The only thing that will happen is you will no longer have amber running lights [emoji106] as I said, turn signals and hazards still work just fine.

 

Just a few more pictures to show what it looks like

 

27550D66-1F6C-4715-9B35-241B75519A89_zps

B1AA1369-E9CC-43FF-8834-F005531B802B_zps

7C9661B8-2A5D-4E7C-AAAF-930290D3C588_zps

This might be a dumb question lol but the wire that we cut is the one coming from the trucks wiring right? Not to light bulbs wire.
  • Like 1
Posted

I personally dont understand why the ambers are needed to be on at all. I dont believe doing this is illegal in Canada, may be illegal in the States.

 

Then again, I see lots of cars out there with no amber running light stock

Posted

I personally dont understand why the ambers are needed to be on at all. I dont believe doing this is illegal in Canada, may be illegal in the States.

 

Then again, I see lots of cars out there with no amber running light stock

Not illegal in the states. Already checked [emoji4]

 

This might be a dumb question lol but the wire that we cut is the one coming from the trucks wiring right? Not to light bulbs wire.

Nope, the harness that comes from the truck to the headlight is untouched. This is after the wiring comes back out of the headlight to plug into the turn signal lights.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had an 88 K1500 with a 5.7 that had those symptoms, I know totally different, it ended up being the ECM. Once you get the fuel system fixed if it still runs lousy you may want to investigate that. it didn't set any codes, stalled ,ran rough at times etc
    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
    • I do too. I’ll never be stuck again 😂
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...