Jump to content

burning oil 2014


ctostrowski

Recommended Posts

Posted

How is the warning light triggered? Is it LOW oil pressure sensor or is it simply an oil level indicator? Low Oil pressure is obviously a much more serious problem than just a low fluid level. These new GM ecotech engines appear to hold 8+ quarts of oil. Maybe they all actually do burn a good bit of oil and the larger capacity just cleverly disguises that fact............................ I got to go. I have to move my truck to a level spot and check the oil Level - RIGHT NOW haha

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

My truck is both. So I am pretty sure that the rings were not seaten properly which is the main cause of oil loss. Running the oil consumption test now so I can have my engine rebuilt or get a new one.

Posted

I am in the same boat with my 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3. It is burning 3/4 to a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so, it just turned over 22000 miles last month.

 

Has cylinder deactivation been left on the entire time?

 

I have 24k miles on mine and I lose less than 1/2 quart over 6k miles. Cylinder deactivation has been off since 1500 miles. Some of the oil volume loss is due to 0w20's tendency to vaporize.

Posted

It is still on because it is under warranty still. I do know that is part of the problem. I have also seen my gas mileage take a hit too. I do have it leveled with 33 inch tires, but that should not cause me to get only 10 to 11mpg on the highway.

Posted

How is the warning light triggered? Is it LOW oil pressure sensor or is it simply an oil level indicator? Low Oil pressure is obviously a much more serious problem than just a low fluid level. These new GM ecotech engines appear to hold 8+ quarts of oil. Maybe they all actually do burn a good bit of oil and the larger capacity just cleverly disguises that fact............................ I got to go. I have to move my truck to a level spot and check the oil Level - RIGHT NOW haha

The larger capacity over the previous generation was to in fact dilute the oil contamination from GDI operations and cover the 7,500 mile oil interval.........and maybe mask a little bit too! It is getting to point where it's so thin you can't even read it anymore...

Posted

It is still on because it is under warranty still. I do know that is part of the problem. I have also seen my gas mileage take a hit too. I do have it leveled with 33 inch tires, but that should not cause me to get only 10 to 11mpg on the highway.

as I asked before have you been using cylinder deactivation this entire time?

Posted

I do have the cylinder deactivation on since it is still under warranty. As of today I have been 1300 miles and gone through 2 quarts of oil, I have spoken to the dealership and they are discussing if they are going to rebuild the motor or put in a new one. I am pushing only for a new motor and to have my warranty extended.

Posted

I do have the cylinder deactivation on since it is still under warranty. As of today I have been 1300 miles and gone through 2 quarts of oil, I have spoken to the dealership and they are discussing if they are going to rebuild the motor or put in a new one. I am pushing only for a new motor and to have my warranty extended.

 

That is crazy? I would demand a new engine something is not correct!

Posted

It is still on because it is under warranty still. I do know that is part of the problem. I have also seen my gas mileage take a hit too. I do have it leveled with 33 inch tires, but that should not cause me to get only 10 to 11mpg on the highway.

Driving in M5 disables cylinder deactivation without voiding warranty, as does a Range AFM Disabler.

 

There's a possibility that the engine may have a piston ring problem. Dealer should replace rings, covered by warranty. If they fix the problem, TURN OFF AFM!

Posted

Today they took my truck to run some more test such as, seeing if there was oil in the PVC, throttle body and what not. Of course there was and they want to rebuild the engine instead of putting a new one in. My big concern is they won't extend my warranty after they do this work which seems super fishy too me. Hey will will rebuild your engine and keep doing it till your warranty is out, is what I feel like they are doing.

 

Is there anything I can do about this? Help please

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree. That`s a LOT of sludge for 12,000 miles. I tossed that out here since this is an OCI thread. There`s tons of people here that do not post.   I used to work on a city fleet. That includes police cars and fire trucks. Lesson is, not to only use the odo for oci. A police car has a ton of hours on the engine for the miles it shows. And, not just idling, directing traffic. They beat on these things.   Course, since it is a Kia, they were gonna use the "100,000 mile warranty" for their OCI.😉
    • CLASS ACTION SUITS?  Does anyone know if there is already a class action suit for the paint - which was to have been fixed, changed in after the 2020 GM vehicles?  Does it look like this?    Just started 3 weeks ago - No help from GM as of yet - Dealer will not assist in speaking with GM on my behalf. Confirmed it is the paint they use along with the way the put it on that causes it to fail.  Clearly a Manufacturer's Defect. 
    • That dog don't hunt. 😏   First, a 2025 with 12K on the clock AND idled for a year nonstop is false on it's face; this is 2026. You can do one or the other but not both.    Second, ENGINE HOURS are absolutely available. The rest is third grade math. Micky Mouse scanner he got out of a box of Cracker Jacks OR an ID10T error.    Third, if they ran it out of oil "Several times" that motor is boned on the first hit.    Does this guy think piling higher makes it stink less? 
    • That's interesting, I assume that would add to the cost of the oil but also I was forgetting to bring up the issue of the low tension rings allowing more oil past which in turn forces the cats to have more oil additives pass through them that wouldn't otherwise so they are creating that problem and of course its all in the name of fuel economy. Mind you the other issue would be the lack of additives that fight the formation of carbon within the piston ring grooves which turn the engine into an oil burner and with in this GM forums case is your average off the shelf Dexos licensed oil, meanwhile the other off the shelf oil being Valvoline's R&P isn't licensed and the only one that is which is that certain Mobil oil that came out recently ( its not even being marketed in Canada ) and only a fraction of vehicle owners are going to be using it out of all the other oils on the shelf or the quickie lube bay that meet the Dexos spec by way of actual licensing.    Also I suspect that its an easy excuse to pool the non turbo DI engines in with the turbo DI engines and design the oil to not have LSPI issues in the most demanding engines and short change the naturally aspirated DI by not offering a higher concentration of additive package they could handle and still not be at risk of LSPI.    I wonder if Amsoil flipped the switch just lately and did whatever packaging designation at the same time as I wonder what oil formulation I would have bought in May, of course I don't know when it was packaged at the factory vs how long it was in storage at the Edmonton warehouse. I know its been said at least in the past that the big players switch over to a reformulated oil but the packaging has not changed until they make that move as well so there is that cross over time where its a new formulation in a predated formula marked package. 
    • Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...