Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

1. Steering wheel

2. Clock spring

3. Wire with terminal ends to the fuse block X2 connector pin 37 and to the X201 connector, pin 41.

 

I supplied pictures of almost everything earlier in the thread. Did you read any of it?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well then... but yes. Until you can get in the truck and play around with it yourself it's much more difficult to comprehend... at least for some. Especially not knowing what's in the truck currently.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

So let me make sure I understand. Sorry for my lack of intelligence on wiring. I need the terminal, this "harness" and then the wire to the wheel and the clock spring. And then it is plug and play.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe this will help. You will need a new wheel and clock spring.

 

This graphic below shows the new 2-pin pigtail that comes from the new clock spring that accommodates the heat.

 

Check to see if you have the mating end that comes out of the larger wire loom below. If you have that, check if it's hot. If it's not, you'll need the extra wiring to complete the circuit to the Fuse Panel.

 

d0fc8814b4a29b319e93597f2dd2066b.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Will be doing this mod soon. 8" io5 upgrade, upgrading cluster as well as adding in the steering wheel controls with heated steering.

 

Just need to get my cluster which I should have tomorrow then get that programmed.. then work begins.

 

Great thread here.

  • Like 2
Posted

Will be doing this mod soon. 8" io5 upgrade, upgrading cluster as well as adding in the steering wheel controls with heated steering.

 

Just need to get my cluster which I should have tomorrow then get that programmed.. then work begins.

 

Great thread here.

I should have made a video of the install. I can still make one actually. Just need to find the time. I use the heat just about every morning.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

The dealer sold you Yazaki terminals by themselves? Hot damn! I find the pre-terminated lead to be overpriced and try to find the terminals by themselves from Mouser and crimp them myself. Then again, being able to get them immediately from the dealer... and not having to wait...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have both terminals and could you send me one of each for $10

  • Like 1
Posted

Do you have both terminals and could you send me one of each for $10

I'm on vacation until 7/9. I would have to check what I have when I get back.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Do you have both terminals and could you send me one of each for $10

Might pay you to make this wire for people who need it and sell them

Edited by carnut325
Posted

I'm on vacation until 7/9. I would have to check what I have when I get back.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK thanks Enjoy

Posted

I checked mine with my voltmeter and it isn't hot. Looks like I'll need to make a wire also.

So you have the 2-pin pig tail in the wire loom? The 2-pin goes to the X201 then from X201 to X51L if I recall. Sounds like you'll need wire/terminals from X201 to X51L.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

The wire does go from X51L IP FUSE BLOCK LEFT to the X201 connector above the BCM. Connector X2 terminal 37 gets a (if I'm not mistaken [emoji851]) mouser 829-13849930-L and at X201 a Yazaki 7114-4110-02. Install it along with the new steering wheel airbag coil and you're good to go!

 

Oh and if you'd rather buy the terminated leads for the X51L side of things the part number is 19301761 comes in a pack of 5

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Justin101714
  • Like 1
Posted

So you have the 2-pin pig tail in the wire loom? The 2-pin goes to the X201 then from X201 to X51L if I recall. Sounds like you'll need wire/terminals from X201 to X51L.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. The plug is there, it's just not hot. I'll need to get this done sometime.....before winter.lol.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yup. The plug is there, it's just not hot. I'll need to get this done sometime.....before winter.lol.

It's too hot right now and will be too cold in the winter! [emoji23]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...