Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking at buying a Silverado next week. Went to the dealership and test drive a Z71 crew cab. Compared to my current vehicle, it drove very smooth.

 

Do the rancho shocks make much of a difference in ride quality?

 

Thanks!

Posted

Yes, they make it much more stiff. Some people don't like this and some do. I have been driving trucks my whole life and that is all I have ever owned and expect a truck to be a little stiff and it does not bother me but others it does. The rancho shocks are crap anyway, plan on changing over to bistien leveling shocks when my 3 year warranty is up.

Posted

I hear a lot of Rancho bashing, but nobody ever offers any specifics.

What's so bad about Ranchos and what do Bilsteins offer over Ranchos?

  • Like 2
Posted

I hear a lot of Rancho bashing, but nobody ever offers any specifics.

What's so bad about Ranchos and what do Bilsteins offer over Ranchos?

The "Rancho" shock installed on the line is crap. Really no different from the normal shock except the color. But they are not the same quality you expect from Rancho when you buy the shocks from Summit or 4 Wheel Parts.
  • Like 1
Posted

So the Z71 uses Rancho's "entry level" shock, which is crap, but Rancho also offers a high quality shock?

  • Like 1
Posted

So the Z71 uses Rancho's "entry level" shock, which is crap, but Rancho also offers a high quality shock?

I wouldnt even call it an entry level. But yes some of the aftermarket ones Rancho makes are decent shocks
Posted

What makes them crappy or not?

 

I've got a Z71, and I love how it rides, so I would consider them an upgrade over the standard shocks.

  • Like 1
Posted

What makes them crappy or not?

 

I've got a Z71, and I love how it rides, so I would consider them an upgrade over the standard shocks.

They dont last at all and an off road shock is not supposed to be firm. It needs to be soft to absorb bumps. Drive a Raptor off road. Ford actually did a great job on that suspension setup.
Posted

I found the the rebound on the old Z71 shocks was way too damp, leading to skating on washboards and small bumps. The bilstiens are much better at higher speeds on dirt and pavement.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Interesting. Maybe I'll consider a Bilstein swap after the factory warranty expires.

Posted

I found the the rebound on the old Z71 shocks was way too damp, leading to skating on washboards and small bumps. The bilstiens are much better at higher speeds on dirt and pavement.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Drive a Raptor on pavement then on dirt, my experience was a drive on pavement and then a dirt autocross, but those Fox Shocks are a little too soft for my pavement liking, but perfect in my off road situation
Posted

Looking at buying a Silverado next week. Went to the dealership and test drive a Z71 crew cab. Compared to my current vehicle, it drove very smooth.

 

Do the rancho shocks make much of a difference in ride quality?

 

Thanks!

 

The OEM rancho's suck. I swapped them out for Bilsteins and never once looked back. And like others have said, the powdercoat on the Rancho's is shit, so they rust and turn orange very fast.

 

I have driven some regular 4x4s as loaner vehicles and they do ride very smooth.

Posted

For those questioning the Bilsteins and waiting for warranty to expire??, just swap them out and you will understand why the Bilsteins are way better. Have always swapped oem to Bilsteins if they are available for my ride.

 

I swapped to 5100s within 3,000 miles on my current truck. Much more controlled ride on all roads. Not harsh like OEM. Settles rear wheel hop on rough road corners. Plus you can raise the front end with the 5100s. Have run the yellows on my sub since it was new. Even had Bilsteins on my Datsun 280Z.

 

Also, any ride that does not come with Michelins is driven from the dealer to Discount, as I did on this truck. Or pick your favorite tire and just dump the oems already.

 

Never have understood why folks spend 35-50 grand on a truck and then settle for the oem low bidder ride for 30,000 miles or more. Just figure it into a new truck budget. When a friend of mine dumped ,after 20,000 miles, his 20 inch badyears for Michelins he was kicking himself for waiting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...