Jump to content

Weather Tech vs GM Mud Flaps


reardiff

Recommended Posts

Posted

For the weathertech's, it re-uses existing screw holes and has a cambered latch to hold onto the sheetmetal. I have the weathertech's.

FWQKP0H.jpg

Js8LdmI.jpg

 

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Do they hold up in SW Michigan winters? Because if their is snow drift around........I'm hitting it! Also worried about the build up of snow in the winter!

Posted

I put the front and back Weathertech mudflaps on mine and love them. Super easy to install and they look great. Just a FYI I purchased mine from Advance Auto Parts and they let me use a 30% coupon code.

Posted

curious what holds the aftermarket brands if there's no drilling? Didn't see but maybe one existing hole that could possbly be used? If going with the OEM (GM) would drilling be a huge issue as for a place for rust to begin?

My WeatherTechs on the front used 1 existing hole. You remove 1 of those plastic push type fasteners and reinstall it.

We have 3 miles of dirt road to travel to our place. Mine came off easily, nice IMO.

Yes, I believe no drilling is a good thing to prevent a bare metal spot. You could address this issue before installing flaps that require drilling.

:happysad:

Posted

I had OEM molded ones installed yesterday. I think they look great! Very heavy duty. Time will tell, but I don't anticipate any issues with them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Do they hold up in SW Michigan winters? Because if their is snow drift around........I'm hitting it! Also worried about the build up of snow in the winter!

You can bet the Weather Tech will. I off road in snow deep enought to push with the grill and have never lost one.

Posted

You can bet the Weather Tech will. I off road in snow deep enought to push with the grill and have never lost one.

 

Any problem with snow/ice buildup in the winter? Guessing still ok, since you say you never lost one.

Posted

I've always wanted the painted to match OEM ones but hated the fact of drilling into truck to install them

Posted

 

Any problem with snow/ice buildup in the winter? Guessing still ok, since you say you never lost one.

Good question. Yes, they get full of snow and ice to the point it ubs on the tires. Kick it off once in a while. Never had one fall off yet. :)

Posted

Installed my Huskys yesterday. Front ones went on without a hitch and were completed in less than 10 minutes.

 

The rears are a little trickier as access between the tire and fender made it tougher to get a tool in there. I used a vice grip attached to the star "driver" which helped. However - to properly install them the top hole should be drilled and installed. Double stick tape does not securely hold the top of the flap against the fender. I took 10 minutes extra and drilled the hole.

 

All in all, I'm pleased.

Posted

Weathertechs here, no drilling, installed in 15 mins. Pics in build thread in my sig.

Posted

Mt 2016 had phillips screws / factory threaded holes that I used for the Huskys and extra clip for rears on inside lip...

 

I did add some 3M double sided / thin tape to back of mud flap for contact with inner fender area to help with overall strength...

 

Cheers----K

Posted

I want a set of flaps for winter to keep the sand/salt off the paint but I don't want to screw the paint up under it so it looks like crap in the spring. ahh...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 3.41 Kroger’s in Montgomery TX
    • I really wanted to go to the Fox 2.5's But they were like ~$1,500 vs ~$425 for the Bilsteins. And my research on FOX shocks was that they do not have a great reputation for longevity. I am sure they the FOX's are fantastic, but I know from experience the Bilsteins are rock solid for at least 150k miles. 
    • Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...