5.3l 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe swap info needed!

[BigAutoDog]

Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J  motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions?

Edited October 28, 2017 by BigAutoDog
Corrections

[BigAutoDog]

Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J  motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions?

[swathdiver]

So you have a non Flex Fuel LY5.  The LMG (cast iron block) and LC9 (aluminum block) 5.3s are both Flex Fuel and you could run your intake and fuel rail and your computer on them.  2010 and newer versions of these engines had VVT so watch for that.

[BigAutoDog]

So find one between 07 and 09 it should plug and play? I was informed a while back when I had battery problems that my truck is on the mid yr. change over list. Which made the battery for my baby between $150-$200 and said it would be shipped to me from overseas. Now I am not the brightest bulb in the box, but last I checked my Tahoe was made in America. Would you know if this would hinder which vehicle I take my motor from? So far out of all the people and techs I've talked with @Swathdiver you are the only one making sense! Should I be looking more at 08 motors since my 8th vin# is J? Trying to do this quickly and without having to overhaul a bunch of parts. Thanks again Swathdiver

[swathdiver]

Yes, if you're just using the block.  Are you going to delete AFM?  This adds to the cost so you may want to forgo it at this time.

 

Go here and download the pdf showing the details of the GEN IV engines to confirm what I've said.

 

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/03/rebuilding-gms-4-8-5-3-and-6-0l-gen-iv-engine/

 

What size battery?  Is it a group 48 or 78?  Mine is an odd size too, compared with my other cars.

Edited November 9, 2017 by swathdiver

[BigAutoDog]

Thanks, honestly didn't think about deleting the AFM.  Yeah, definitely trying not to go but so far right now. That's why I've been trying to find a match that I basically with gaskets and things could just drop in button up and go. And if I'm not mistaken the guy at Napa said group 48. I got the battery out of a friend's Suburban, now that I think more about at the time about 7yrs. ago, guy actually said $265, we'll it's still there and she did just fine with the Suburban battery. I wanted to change the motor and beef it up a bit, but after getting it from my dad when he passed, I had to replace the entire rear end due the diff chewing it'self up one day. 

[swathdiver]

I think mine also has a Group 48 if memory serves.  The original part number according to manuals is 19001810 which equates to a 78-6YR AC Delco battery.  The AC Delco batteries are great, just expensive.  Down here in Florida, it was rare for any battery to last more than two years.  We're getting 5-8 years with these AC Delco batteries now.

 

Let us know which donor motor you get and how it goes.  I'm surprised that there hasn't been more participation in this thread.

Edited November 9, 2017 by swathdiver

[TrillWill]

On 10/29/2017 at 3:49 PM, swathdiver said:

So you have a non Flex Fuel LY5.  The LMG (cast iron block) and LC9 (aluminum block) 5.3s are both Flex Fuel and you could run your intake and fuel rail and your computer on them.  2010 and newer versions of these engines had VVT so watch for that.

I have an 07 yukon with 5.3 flex fuel.  I bought a 5.3 engine off a 2014 cop tahoe. Do you think the 2014 tahoe engine will be compatible with my 07 yukon?

[swathdiver]

35 minutes ago, TrillWill said:

I have an 07 yukon with 5.3 flex fuel.  I bought a 5.3 engine off a 2014 cop tahoe. Do you think the 2014 tahoe engine will be compatible with my 07 yukon?

Yes, but they are not necessarily plug and play.  Your engine does not have VVT and the 2014 motor does.  If you got the ECM and wiring harness with the new engine, drop it in and have the VIN flashed and your good to go.

 

If not, you have the option of adding VVT to your existing wiring harness and computer or you can physically delete it or just leave it unplugged with your original harness and ECM.

 

Does that make sense?

[TrillWill]

Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines

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[TrillWill]

Yes, but they are not necessarily plug and play.  Your engine does not have VVT and the 2014 motor does.  If you got the ECM and wiring harness with the new engine, drop it in and have the VIN flashed and your good to go.
 
If not, you have the option of adding VVT to your existing wiring harness and computer or you can physically delete it or just leave it unplugged with your original harness and ECM.
 
Does that make sense?

Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines

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[swathdiver]

9 hours ago, TrillWill said:

Yes it does. Thanks for the fast reply. But what about the front? I'm seeing the cams are different. This is a picture of both engines

This is the difference between them.  Yours has a single pattern camshaft and does not have Variable Valve Timing.  The new engine has a dual pattern camshaft with VVT which is good for a solid 1 MPG. 

 

You have several options here:

 

1. Leave it disconnected.

2. Use the donor engine wiring harness and computer and flash the ECM to your VIN.

3. Add the wiring to your existing harness and pin the ECM and update your ECMs firmware to accommodate VVT.

4. Swap covers and physically delete VVT and leave it disconnected.

 

Your donor engine has a number of improvements over the original 2009 version.  They are:

1.  The driver's side valve cover has an improved PCV system to reduce oil consumption.

2.  The VLOM under the intake for AFM is greatly improved as are the lifters but there are newer ones even better since.

3.  The pressure relief valve in the oil pan now has a deflector to reduce oil consumption.

 

This is a good time to pull the oil pan on the 2014 motor and replace the oil pump's pick up tube o-ring.  They fail at about 160K and kill the engine's oil pressure.

[TrillWill]

This is the difference between them.  Yours has a single pattern camshaft and does not have Variable Valve Timing.  The new engine has a dual pattern camshaft with VVT which is good for a solid 1 MPG. 
 
You have several options here:
 
1. Leave it disconnected.
2. Use the donor engine wiring harness and computer and flash the ECM to your VIN.
3. Add the wiring to your existing harness and pin the ECM and update your ECMs firmware to accommodate VVT.
4. Swap covers and physically delete VVT and leave it disconnected.
 
Your donor engine has a number of improvements over the original 2009 version.  They are:
1.  The driver's side valve cover has an improved PCV system to reduce oil consumption.
2.  The VLOM under the intake for AFM is greatly improved as are the lifters but there are newer ones even better since.
3.  The pressure relief valve in the oil pan now has a deflector to reduce oil consumption.
 
This is a good time to pull the oil pan on the 2014 motor and replace the oil pump's pick up tube o-ring.  They fail at about 160K and kill the engine's oil pressure.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking about bypassing the vvt. Or do you recommend the vvt? If i bypass it, would i have a check engine light on?

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[swathdiver]

4 minutes ago, TrillWill said:

Thanks for the info. I was thinking about bypassing the vvt. Or do you recommend the vvt? If i bypass it, would i have a check engine light on?

Well, tell me this: do you have the 2014s engine wiring harness and computer?  If so, keep VVT.  If not, leave it disconnected, won't throw a code when using your original harness and ECM.

 

VVT was good for a solid 1 MPG and broadened the torque band, brought in peak torque about 400 rpms sooner.

Edited July 3, 2020 by swathdiver

[TrillWill]

Well, tell me this: do you have the 2014s engine wiring harness and computer?  If so, keep VVT.  If not, leave it disconnected, won't throw a code when using your original harness and ECM.
 
VVT was good for a solid 1 MPG and broadened the torque band, brought in peak torque about 400 rpms sooner.

No i don't have the body harness for the 2014. I may consider adding vvt to the existing harness in the future. I was concerned about seeing a check engine light being on if it's disconnected

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