Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking to do a full interior swap/update on my '99 silverado, don't know much about interior fabrication but i'm going to do what I have to in order to make it work. For now I plan on taking everything I can out of a part-out silverado from 2014 or newer and throwing it straight into my truck. If anybody has any tips or prior knowledge from a project of the same nature any help would be appreciated. From what I could find, not many people have documented this sort of thing on YouTube and the ones who have only show off the final product instead of the full process or steps they needed to take in order to get what I'm looking for. 

Screenshot (59).png

Posted

That's a nice truck, and I really like that color.  I'm not too familiar with those interiors, but what is making you want to swap it? 

 

My son swapped a grey 2002 S-10 interior for a black one of the same year just because he liked it better.  It turned out nice.  hardest of course was the dash.  A different generation's interior will likely be very challenging.

 

I definitely wish you the best with it!

Posted

I agree with Shakenflake; you need to find an interchange manual (your local professional junk yard) and see if the seats will fit. The floor pan (not floor PLAN) is most likely different, connection point in different locations heights, and styles. I have some experience with this and my adventure was a cake walk. I installed bucket seats from a late '60s/early 70s Blazer into my '65 short wheel base (they came in 3 wheel bases) Suburban. I had some brackets made or the outer legs of the seats due to the topography of the floor pan, the mounting points were WAY lower relative to the legs on the seats, no leg was the same length and any of the outer 3 legs. The 2 inner legs I just washered up but the outer ones needed a tapered box to fit under the seat between the legs and the floor of the truck. You can't do this kind of modding on modern trucks. There's too much to account for; like seat height / air bag relationships, side air bag / seat relationship. The list is prolly longer than I can think of. If you want a fresher interior I'd just go to the bone yard and get one, after market seat covers that strap on look great until you sit on them and getting a reupholstered interior is going to cost $1,000s.

  • Like 1
Posted

The only interior that will fit a 99 is 99-02. You can do an 03-07 swap but none of the power options. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/28/2022 at 10:29 AM, shakenfake said:

The only interior that will fit a 99 is 99-02. You can do an 03-07 swap but none of the power options. 

Actually you can swap seats easy enough. I have a set of seats from an 04 Escalade in my 99. Only thing I had to do was use my 99 switch and switch harness to plug into the main seat harness on drivers seat. Passenger was direct swap. Other pwr stuff though, you're correct, as GM changed over to using modules for everything vs old school switches and wiring. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...