Slow conversion to prerunner-like

[Spurshot]

With stock suspension, you need to get a 35 out further than stock so it will clear the sway bar at the front on a hard turn. 

 

Before you buy wheels and tires, measure the clearances you have with your current wheel/tire setup.  The clearances that count are at steering lock.  Extrapolate diameter and width and you'll know where the interference areas are.  Then you can solve the interference with wheel offset and/or trimming body & wheelwell parts.

Edited November 29, 2017 by Spurshot

[Dezrado]

The fenders on that truck are 5" bulge, thats the bulge recommended for the LT kits, im running 3" bulge with bajakits prerunner kit with method wheels and 35" toyos. Im also running bajakits valance bumper. I still rub my 35s on full turns on the inner firewall and they also hit on the battery tray/ fuse box.

 

running 37s on the midtravel kit would def require lifting the battery tray and fuse box about 2". To run 37s on the rear you will need to fab custom inner fender. The stock depth of the fenders isnt enough. If youre on instagram follow me at silver_surfer_project for pics on my build.

[6.2Chevy]

12 hours ago, Velocyraptor said:

The fenders on that truck are 5" bulge, thats the bulge recommended for the LT kits, im running 3" bulge with bajakits prerunner kit with method wheels and 35" toyos. Im also running bajakits valance bumper. I still rub my 35s on full turns on the inner firewall and they also hit on the battery tray/ fuse box.

 

running 37s on the midtravel kit would def require lifting the battery tray and fuse box about 2". To run 37s on the rear you will need to fab custom inner fender. The stock depth of the fenders isnt enough. If youre on instagram follow me at silver_surfer_project for pics on my build.

This is the exact info I was looking for! Are the details of your suspension setup list in the IG post? I just requested to follow.

[A.J. Curtis]

19 hours ago, Velocyraptor said:

The fenders on that truck are 5" bulge, thats the bulge recommended for the LT kits, im running 3" bulge with bajakits prerunner kit with method wheels and 35" toyos. Im also running bajakits valance bumper. I still rub my 35s on full turns on the inner firewall and they also hit on the battery tray/ fuse box.

 

running 37s on the midtravel kit would def require lifting the battery tray and fuse box about 2". To run 37s on the rear you will need to fab custom inner fender. The stock depth of the fenders isnt enough. If youre on instagram follow me at silver_surfer_project for pics on my build.

Exactly what Velocyraptor said! A mid travel kit will not get you the exact look you are going for. I am running a Dirtking mid-travel kit and extended travel Fox 2.5 dsc on all corners. I can not fit 35" tires with out getting the fiberglass fenders and some fabrication. With the idea's you are asking you really need to do the suspension first and the fiberglass fenders and then see how far you wanna go with the fabrication and fiberglass fenders to fit 35"/37" tires. With the 6.2 you will not notice the 35"' upgrade as much but if you decide to go 37" you have to re gear! Yo can not go wrong with Mazzulla, bajakits or dirtking. They are all priced very close. I would contact a company that you are leaning towards and tell them your goals and budget. For a full cantilever long travel set up the rear you are looking at serious $$$$$.  If you want a long travel kit your looking at least $7,200 just for the suspension front and rear not installed. The fiberglass fenders are not that expensive, its the fab to fit larger tires and paint that adds up! figure $2,000 for the front fenders with mods and paint. I have no idea what the rear fiberglass fenders cost to install but I would guess another $2,000. Do not forget you have to add up your new wheel tire combo $2,200.  The bumper in the photo looks like an ADD or Nfab bumper those are around $2,000?

 

issues not expected:

1) not every shop is good at doing alignments on long or mid travel suspensions so that narrows down places to bring your vehicle. ( you will wnat to have more alignments done with long or mid travel)

2) Replacement parts - all of these kits use uni-ball and heim joints on everything. These will need to be replaced more often than regular bushings and require more maintenance this goes back to issue #1. I.E. oem upper ball joint $50ea vs a uniball $110ea. 

3) you can not just go to your local parts store to get these parts. meaning you know you are going to need them almost every 20,000 miles so make sure you buy them and have them on hand if its your daily driver!

4) do to these uniball and hemi joints you will notice more squeeks. not a big deal but be prepared cuz it will happen everytime your truck moves and comes to a stop. 

5) While the icon, king and fox shocks/coilovers look amazing and are incredibly comfortable and handle amazing these do require more maintenance as well. They are rebuild-able and is recommended to have them re valved and sealed every 50,000 miles and more every 10,000 miles http://www.ridefox.com/service.php?m=offroad 

 

I could go on for days but these are the ones to get you thinking!

 

[6.2Chevy]

4 minutes ago, A.J. Curtis said:

Exactly what Velocyraptor said! A mid travel kit will not get you the exact look you are going for. I am running a Dirtking mid-travel kit and extended travel Fox 2.5 dsc on all corners. I can not fit 35" tires with out getting the fiberglass fenders and some fabrication. With the idea's you are asking you really need to do the suspension first and the fiberglass fenders and then see how far you wanna go with the fabrication and fiberglass fenders to fit 35"/37" tires. With the 6.2 you will not notice the 35"' upgrade as much but if you decide to go 37" you have to re gear! Yo can not go wrong with Mazzulla, bajakits or dirtking. They are all priced very close. I would contact a company that you are leaning towards and tell them your goals and budget. For a full cantilever long travel set up the rear you are looking at serious $$$$$.  If you want a long travel kit your looking at least $7,200 just for the suspension front and rear not installed. The fiberglass fenders are not that expensive, its the fab to fit larger tires and paint that adds up! figure $2,000 for the front fenders with mods and paint. I have no idea what the rear fiberglass fenders cost to install but I would guess another $2,000. Do not forget you have to add up your new wheel tire combo $2,200.  The bumper in the photo looks like an ADD or Nfab bumper those are around $2,000?

 

issues not expected:

1) not every shop is good at doing alignments on long or mid travel suspensions so that narrows down places to bring your vehicle. ( you will wnat to have more alignments done with long or mid travel)

2) Replacement parts - all of these kits use uni-ball and heim joints on everything. These will need to be replaced more often than regular bushings and require more maintenance this goes back to issue #1. I.E. oem upper ball joint $50ea vs a uniball $110ea. 

3) you can not just go to your local parts store to get these parts. meaning you know you are going to need them almost every 20,000 miles so make sure you buy them and have them on hand if its your daily driver!

4) do to these uniball and hemi joints you will notice more squeeks. not a big deal but be prepared cuz it will happen everytime your truck moves and comes to a stop. 

5) While the icon, king and fox shocks/coilovers look amazing and are incredibly comfortable and handle amazing these do require more maintenance as well. They are rebuild-able and is recommended to have them re valved and sealed every 50,000 miles and more every 10,000 miles http://www.ridefox.com/service.php?m=offroad 

 

I could go on for days but these are the ones to get you thinking!

 

Great info! Thanks!

[Jamb1229]

Dragging up old post here but can tell you how I'm doing mine 2015 silverado lt 4x4 crew cab

6" front and rear fiberwerx glass

Had 33x11.50x20 -18 offset which is now being upgraded to 35x12.50x17 -12 offset front glass has been cut back 1½" for clearance no lift just rear block removed to level truck more closely 

Edited August 9, 2023 by Jamb1229