Jump to content

What gas mileage does your ‘17 1500 get?

moto28

Recommended Posts

moto28 Enthusiast

moto28

Posted
Posted

I got this ‘17 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 about a week ago and I was kinda let down by the gas mileage.

 

although, I am running 35” tires, I don’t feel like I should be only getting 13.3MPG. It could be that it just has to get broken in, my last truck which was a ‘15 started out getting 16MPG and after about 10k miles it started getting about 20MPG. 

 

Was just curious what the stock trucks with the 5.3 get and was wondering if I’m gonna need to get a programmer or just wait this out

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply
GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

I'm not surprised on 13.3 with 35's.  13.5 with 33's, that seems a little low.  Tire wt. has a lot to do with it as does ride ht.  My '15 with the 5.3, 1" front end lift, trimmed front air dam, 3.08 gears and 32" Michelin LTX has averaged 15.9 - 16.5 (trip meters A & B) depending on driving habits and registers 22 average on highway runs.  AFM is disengaged.  For comparison, I have a '13 2500HD Ext Cab 4x4, 6.0 Vortec, 3.73 gears. It's averaging 12.5 mpg.  

mnm99 Enthusiast

mnm99

Posted
Posted

Stock 15.9 city and 21.5 highway with 5100 miles on it so far. I lost 1/10 a mile taking off the air damn so far. haven't tested on long runs though.

tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

That is about right for mpg's running 35 inch tires.  That big of a tire is very heavy and I assume you are also running at AT style tire which also reduced mpg's due to the more aggressive tread.  Your speedo and odometer are also off due to the larger tires showing even less mpg's than you really are getting.  No half ton truck out there is going to get good mpg's with big heavy tires.  

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, moto28 said:

I got this ‘17 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 about a week ago and I was kinda let down by the gas mileage.

 

although, I am running 35” tires, I don’t feel like I should be only getting 13.3MPG. It could be that it just has to get broken in, my last truck which was a ‘15 started out getting 16MPG and after about 10k miles it started getting about 20MPG. 

 

Was just curious what the stock trucks with the 5.3 get and was wondering if I’m gonna need to get a programmer or just wait this out

Pretty much every 5.3 and 6.2 is getting 12-14mpg in dense city, and 22-23mpg highway.

20165.3Eco Enthusiast

20165.3Eco

Posted
Posted

18.0 lifetime average including highway/city/all towing. Normally returns 22-23 on highway trips unless I run over 74 mph. Lowest it has been on a weekly work commute average is around 14.5 with remote start warmups/colder weather and winter fuel. Summer weekly work commute averages 18-19. 

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, 20165.3Eco said:

Lowest it has been on a weekly work commute average is around 14.5 with remote start warmups/colder weather and winter fuel.

This is very important. Now is a bad time of year to be calculating MPG.

Daly Senior Enthusiast

Daly

Posted
Posted

I'm stock except for 275/65r18 winter tires (same size as my 275/55r20 summers, but more aggressive tread and slightly heavier) and I'm getting around 13.5l/100kms. It's too be expected right now though, with winter fuel blends and longer idle times to warm the truck up. In the summer I'm getting 10.5l/100kms with no problem. That's hand calculated, which appears to show that my dash calculated average is about 1-1.5l/100km on the high side.

 

Sig shows my lifetime average...

garagerog Enthusiast

garagerog

Posted
Posted
45 minutes ago, aseibel said:

This is very important. Now is a bad time of year to be calculating MPG.

Good point Andy, and in your case when you're putting that plow of yours to work, only thing that would matter would be gallons per hour (gph) like farmers and heavy equipment operators keep track of.

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, garagerog said:

Good point Andy, and in your case when you're putting that plow of yours to work, only thing that would matter would be gallons per hour (gph) like farmers and heavy equipment operators keep track of.

lol, yeah, I might be getting 11 mpg on a tank when I'm plowing. But I don't even know how the backing-up is calculated by the DIC. Half of plowing is looking behind me. I don't even plow commercially, only 3 driveways out in the country. So I might burn 3 gallons / hour of work, but I only drive 10 miles in that time.

MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, moto28 said:

I got this ‘17 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 about a week ago and I was kinda let down by the gas mileage.

 

although, I am running 35” tires, I don’t feel like I should be only getting 13.3MPG. It could be that it just has to get broken in, my last truck which was a ‘15 started out getting 16MPG and after about 10k miles it started getting about 20MPG. 

 

Was just curious what the stock trucks with the 5.3 get and was wondering if I’m gonna need to get a programmer or just wait this out

"I'm running 35's but can't figure out why I'm only getting 13 mpg"  The kids these days. 

 

Be glad it's that high.  I'm running completely stock with the factory P265's and only get 12-14 in town.

 

PS  If you're getting the 13.3 mpg off the DIC screen, your actual mileage is probably even less than that, if you figure it with a calculator. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, moto28 said:

I got this ‘17 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 about a week ago and I was kinda let down by the gas mileage.

 

although, I am running 35” tires, I don’t feel like I should be only getting 13.3MPG. It could be that it just has to get broken in, my last truck which was a ‘15 started out getting 16MPG and after about 10k miles it started getting about 20MPG. 

 

Was just curious what the stock trucks with the 5.3 get and was wondering if I’m gonna need to get a programmer or just wait this out

How are you correcting the odometer reading to determine accurate distance?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...