Door ajar

[XAV]

On 6/13/2019 at 1:13 AM, RickertsRed said:

So I’m reviving this thread because I had a very similar issue just recently and the fix was simple so hopefully it’ll help you guys.

 

My ‘17 Sierra 3500 started with the door ajar issue, I tried slamming it, playing with the accordion wire harness in the door frame, I even took the door panel off and pulled apart all the connectors to see if there were loose or frayed wires or possible corrosion. Pulled out a multimeter and checked everything; all good. None of the above fixed my problem.

 

Then I started getting the “service trailer brake” and “trailer disconnected” randomly. Sometimes with a trailer attached, sometimes without. Seemed odd to me, but I didn’t even bother troubleshooting.

 

Next I started getting “Service Stabilitrak” randomly and sporadically.

 

Ok ok now I’m thinking WTF is going on here. So I disconnected both batteries and pulled every single fuse and reset it (checked to see if it was popped in the process). I didn’t even check to see which fuse I pulled, just pull, inspect, replace.

 

The length of the whole battery and fuse process took me about 2 beer, throwing a ball for the dog periodically, playing referee for two toddlers who love to fight and VIOLLA... the door ajar, trailer brake, and stabiltrak all fixed in one swoop.

 

Hope this helps the next guy.

You said 2 beer long... I'll try that.

Seriously, I have a similar problem. Started with rear door driver side. No windows power and door ajar warning. Lock works fine.

Recently (months later) in front driver door. No windows power (for all windows from this switch) and door ajar warning. Child Lock and lock / Mirror control works fine. 

Other windows works fine from there own switch.

I've already tear apart the door and saw no sings of loose wires or corrosion also put dialectic grease. 

 

For the front door:

Motor Option :If the door ajar is linked to the window motor, it make sense the window does not roll down and the door ajar display would show. But would that fail to roll down other windows for the master switch?? 

Harness option : only If not the window motor.

 

Anyone have suggestion? 

 

 

 

[XAV]

On 8/22/2019 at 11:26 AM, XAV said:

You said 2 beer long... I'll try that.

Seriously, I have a similar problem. Started with rear door driver side. No windows power and door ajar warning. Lock works fine.

Recently (months later) in front driver door. No windows power (for all windows from this switch) and door ajar warning. Child Lock and lock / Mirror control works fine. 

Other windows works fine from there own switch.

I've already tear apart the door and saw no sings of loose wires or corrosion also put dialectic grease. 

 

For the front door:

Motor Option :If the door ajar is linked to the window motor, it make sense the window does not roll down and the door ajar display would show. But would that fail to roll down other windows for the master switch?? 

Harness option : only If not the window motor.

 

Anyone have suggestion? 

 

 

 

It was more like a 6 pack job but It was definitely the harness for both doors. I had to pull the harness completely out of the door before I could see any cut wires. Once done, I've pulled the rubber boot back as far has I could and than I could finally find the faulty wires. Welded it back and now its as good as new. 

Not that hard to reach and can be fix for really cheap.

Truck is 2014 Silverado 1500 

 

Symptoms were :

Rear door driver side. No windows power and door ajar warning. Lock works fine. (Also a Services Airbag displayed part of the problems.)

Front driver door. No windows power (for all windows from this switch) and door ajar warning. Child Lock and lock / Mirror control works fine. 

 

Hope this is useful for someone.

[Devinskinner1]

I have a 2014 silverado crew cab. Rear left door ajar message stayed on and my window wouldnt roll down on the same door.  I took apart the harness from the door to the body and the black wire in the harness had broken off from the connector.  Gm doesnt want to sell me just the connector so I soldered it back together and everything works again.  Check the wires in that connection behind the rubber boot against the body of the truck.  

[74Sprint17SierraATX]

On 9/11/2018 at 10:05 AM, GMTrucktech11 said:

Hello everyone.  I work as a tech for GM and have for years.  I found this topic after searching it online.  GM has no information regarding this issue but after my findings I filed a field service report with GM to make sure they are aware.  

Last week I had a customer bring his '17 Sierra into the dealership with the exact issues stated earlier, door ajar message and drivers window didn't work.  Both issues were  intermittent.  I checked for any literature that could assist in pinpointing the root cause, and found none.  So I started from scratch.  The window open/close signal and door ajar signal are on the same GMLAN communication circuit.  That circuit runs through the window motor (driver) assembly. Ultimately I found heavy corrosion in the connector to the window motor and the pigtail to the harness.  I replaced the motor and pigtail and fixed the customers issue.  Here are some pictures of my findings.  If you don't find corrosion in the pigtail look very close at the window motor pins. 

 

So I have gotten this far. My connections look EXCEPTIONALLY clean.

I can also find no evidence that the green/yellow is out of the pigtail. Upon reconnecting the door panel to see if I could get up and running again, I am still left with no power and a door ajar. 

What would be your next step of troubleshooting?

Thanks,
Matt

[74Sprint17SierraATX]

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cut clean. It almost looks like somebody cut it with a pair of scissors.
Everyone having these issue is effed up.
I’m going to add a little bit of wire to give it some length so it’s not tight tight, and then solder and heat shrink. This will resolve my issue as there is no corrosion. I will post a picture when I get computer access.



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Edited October 20, 2019 by 74Sprint17SierraATX

[Todd40]

I pulled my harness and it is the same green wire as yours.  Is it possible to repair without having to remove/fish it out and can you re-twist and use electrical tape?

[BNSF]

On 10/20/2019 at 10:32 AM, 74Sprint17SierraATX said:

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cut clean. It almost looks like somebody cut it with a pair of scissors.
Everyone having these issue is effed up.
I’m going to add a little bit of wire to give it some length so it’s not tight tight, and then solder and heat shrink. This will resolve my issue as there is no corrosion. I will post a picture when I get computer access.

 

Guess I know where I'm looking for my issue in the morning. Thanks.

[74Sprint17SierraATX]

Following up... I soldered in about an inch of wire on the break. I also pulled it so there was a bit of slack on both ends. Originally, I was worried that adding wire would somehow mess with the resistance of the wire enough to trigger computer issues or whatever TF else that could go wrong. I have had zero issues and full operation on my door panel.

Todd, I would not have found my break without pulling the harness out. My break was actually behind the fitting that goes into the door. My second pic is a bit deceiving. I pulled the door jam boot back  past where the the fitting met the door so I could have more access. I would not recommend your method as you will most likely cause more tension and another break soon thereafter. I would add a bit of wire for sure. 

[v2GetEm]

On 11/19/2019 at 3:28 PM, 74Sprint17SierraATX said:

Following up... I soldered in about an inch of wire on the break. I also pulled it so there was a bit of slack on both ends. Originally, I was worried that adding wire would somehow mess with the resistance of the wire enough to trigger computer issues or whatever TF else that could go wrong. I have had zero issues and full operation on my door panel.

Todd, I would not have found my break without pulling the harness out. My break was actually behind the fitting that goes into the door. My second pic is a bit deceiving. I pulled the door jam boot back  past where the the fitting met the door so I could have more access. I would not recommend your method as you will most likely cause more tension and another break soon thereafter. I would add a bit of wire for sure. 

@74Sprint17SierraATXWas this the driver door or passenger? Thanks for the info!

[JimG16]

On 8/22/2018 at 10:23 PM, kmyndiuk said:

Have a new power window motor on its way. Hopefully get it replaced on Saturday, will update then.

How did you end up fixing this?  Mine just did the exact same thing. Windows don't work, door ajar light constantly, and no horn on locking

[Escalade1979]

On 10/20/2019 at 11:32 AM, 74Sprint17SierraATX said:

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cut clean. It almost looks like somebody cut it with a pair of scissors.
Everyone having these issue is effed up.
I’m going to add a little bit of wire to give it some length so it’s not tight tight, and then solder and heat shrink. This will resolve my issue as there is no corrosion. I will post a picture when I get computer access.



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Does the Door skin need to be removed in order to pull full harness out???

[BNSF]

Bought a replacement harness, and had it in the garage for months.

Finally, after hearing the old lady whine over and over again about no power windows and constant door open reminder, warm weather gave me some motivation to change out the harness.

It was quite easy.

Sure enough, broken wire was the problem.

GM really boned this design, such a awkward curve that is constantly opened and closed over and over that has such thin wires. Complete joke.

$94 for the piece was the cheapest I could find.

 

Having it open, gave me the oppertunity to spray some rust preventer in there also.  
 

Edited May 1, 2020 by BNSF

[TAP 427]

On 3/10/2018 at 10:26 AM, 205harleyman said:

Got oil change yesterday, after that it tells me drivers door open, interior lights work, windows do not let down from drivers control, but will on other doors from their switch, and horn doesn’t blow when locking doors with remote.

I am intersted in knowing if the problem was ever rectified and what the solution was? I have a 2016 exact same issue. Dealer says bad window motor and switch. $865 for repair, I am thinking of doing this myself.

 

[Ship78]

Thank you all so much for the diligence in your efforts to come up with the spot on solution!!!! 2014 Silverado driver door/window same exact situation. 

 

HOWEVER, would like to add another indicator to the scenario, that could show problem is in beginning stages. Maybe catch it before Windows don't work, doors don't lock, light stays on, WTH is going on panic sets in.

 

For over a year leading up to the discussed final result, I would get random messages that "THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM, roll driver window all the way up then down." Additionally there were a handful of times the theft DETERRENT system acted up enough to prevent the vehicle from starting. 

[74Sprint17SierraATX]

[mention=167603]74Sprint17SierraATX[/mention]Was this the driver door or passenger? Thanks for the info!

Sorry! I’ve been MIA. This was driver side door.


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