Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Iv been reading on this and it’s got me so confused, I have a 2016 ltz without factory nav, and no car play option or pandora, all I want is car play. So all I need to do is upgrade my hmi to the 2.5? And does it need vin programmed or not? Where do I find these at!? 

 

Attached is the picture of what my home looks like now.

A0EE5D21-9E03-424B-B9F0-C59479F59175.jpeg

Posted
2 hours ago, Montanasilverado said:

Iv been reading on this and it’s got me so confused, I have a 2016 ltz without factory nav, and no car play option or pandora, all I want is car play. So all I need to do is upgrade my hmi to the 2.5? And does it need vin programmed or not? Where do I find these at!? 

 

Attached is the picture of what my home looks like now.

A0EE5D21-9E03-424B-B9F0-C59479F59175.jpeg

You have a 2016 like mine that was made during a few months that they ran into issues with parts availability and didn't include Apple Airplay/Android Auto if you look on your Monroney Sticker you should have gotten a +200 credit.  I just purchased a 2.5 HMI Module from th3magpi3 and gave him my VIN, took my 5 minutes to swap it out and I have apple carplay fully functioning, siri works with the steering wheel buttons etc...  No need to have the radio flashed or upgrade USB ports or any of that on the 16 trucks.

Posted (edited)

Awesome! So it’s pretty easy then, not to step on toes but what’s something like that cost the hmi?, I use pandora all the time and carplay for the maps, so I’m not worried about adding factory nav 

Edited by Montanasilverado
Posted (edited)

Bottom of previous page. SIERRA4102 has non-nav unprogrammed modules for $110 shipped.  If you buy one from him, you will have to get it programmed.

Edited by RACERX7775
Posted

There are a few guys on here that do them. White Automotive And Media Services. WAMS. Google his site. Search on here. Also search Denali cluster in Silverado. You should find good reviews for him. He did my cluster programming. He will tell you if you are getting the correct module for your truck.

Posted
I see them on eBay too, but how or where do they get programmed
I can also facilitate programming. Feel free to contact me via PM and we can get some of your questions answered.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, th3magpi3 said:

I can also facilitate programming. 
 

Sorry I didnt  mention you. There are just alot of you guys that help so many of us out.

  • Like 1
Posted

I actually wanna do this too. I have a 14 LTZ with factory nav. But I dont wanna do all the other stuff that is associated with it like the usb and radio module

Posted
I actually wanna do this too. I have a 14 LTZ with factory nav. But I dont wanna do all the other stuff that is associated with it like the usb and radio module
If anyone has any questions please send me a PM. I try to give everyone I deal with a phone call so we can better address any questions you might have.

I've found that the very lengthy post that we're in now can be an easy place to get lost and confused.

If you're thinking about doing the upgrade, please get in touch with me. I'd love to have a chat about it :)

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Posted
Iv been reading on this and it’s got me so confused, I have a 2016 ltz without factory nav, and no car play option or pandora, all I want is car play. So all I need to do is upgrade my hmi to the 2.5? And does it need vin programmed or not? Where do I find these at!? 
 
Attached is the picture of what my home looks like now.
A0EE5D21-9E03-424B-B9F0-C59479F59175.thumb.jpeg.bab8b03c98bbd4b5a6e324658061a647.jpeg

i have a couple 2.5 hmi for sale, 110$ shipped


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

26b455fc86456df37363a09aef80da6e.jpg
I have 6 of these for sale, non navigation, $110 shipped will need programmed to ur vin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

For anyone looking, that is a great price.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, th3magpi3 said:

If anyone has any questions please send me a PM. I try to give everyone I deal with a phone call so we can better address any questions you might have.

I've found that the very lengthy post that we're in now can be an easy place to get lost and confused.

If you're thinking about doing the upgrade, please get in touch with me. I'd love to have a chat about it :)

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

 

Hi th3magpi3,

 

I reached out via PM for a little bit of help which you could maybe help with regarding mismatched hardware issues...

 

Hoping you can help :)
 

 

Posted
26b455fc86456df37363a09aef80da6e.jpg
I have 6 of these for sale, non navigation, $110 shipped will need programmed to ur vin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What does the 2.5 offer again?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...