Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

68784575a54823ddd9f1c14b27a79473.jpg
f87a29a0d9dd92fc53ebe3e0528b31b5.jpg
Scored this bad boy from 4wheelparts.com....shipped for free and 5%off coupon code....came out to $187...not a bad deal considering retail is $269. This is the dry filter version. I noticed a bit of more noise of noice of course. Good rumble that is and a cleaner look on the engine bay. They claim 8hp and 13 torque on the 6.2 dyno tests....mine is the 5.3 but I am happy with the quality for the price.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Had the mirror lights tinted.  The light just seemed to stick out too much. Had them use headlight tint.  Still seems plenty bright when on, if I ever use them.  
 

 

F1CD80F8-765F-4058-A8EA-68AC9D614B35.jpeg

462AD257-2AD8-4C9A-88B8-A678DAE9D475.jpeg

EA7CA7A0-CA72-46EE-AFB1-3BBBD7683B92.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Mounted my fire extinguisher with a qd mount in front of the passenger seat instead of on the cloth headrest mount I used to have it on

C4AC541A-A965-46A9-9C69-676D3F16176E.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Unwrntd said:

Mounted my fire extinguisher with a qd mount in front of the passenger seat instead of on the cloth headrest mount I used to have it on

C4AC541A-A965-46A9-9C69-676D3F16176E.jpeg

What mount did you use?

Posted
20 hours ago, SILVER SLED said:

Had the mirror lights tinted.  The light just seemed to stick out too much. Had them use headlight tint.  Still seems plenty bright when on, if I ever use them.  
 

 

F1CD80F8-765F-4058-A8EA-68AC9D614B35.jpeg

462AD257-2AD8-4C9A-88B8-A678DAE9D475.jpeg

EA7CA7A0-CA72-46EE-AFB1-3BBBD7683B92.jpeg

 Hi John, how do you get these light to work....i have them, never seen them on!    Thanks.

Posted

Just got done with a an hour and a half wash and dry in a heated bay at carwash. Been in a blizzard late Thursday and Friday. Kids had ball yesterday so truck was a complete mess. Glad to get all the road grime off the truck. 

Posted
Just got done with a an hour and a half wash and dry in a heated bay at carwash. Been in a blizzard late Thursday and Friday. Kids had ball yesterday so truck was a complete mess. Glad to get all the road grime off the truck. 


Snowed here yesterday and today. Truck is salty it’ll get a wash hopefully next Saturday. I feel your pain


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
54 minutes ago, RyanbabZ71 said:

 


Snowed here yesterday and today. Truck is salty it’ll get a wash hopefully next Saturday. I feel your pain


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

This is why I am in the hunt for a 96-98 C/K 1500 with a 5.7L.  Drive that on $h!tty days and let the new one stay in garage. Drives me nuts having that crud on truck. Especially the wheels. Doesn’t take long for them to go to h$ll with that chemical stuff they put on the road. 

Posted
3 hours ago, goosehunter said:

 Hi John, how do you get these light to work....i have them, never seen them on!    Thanks.

The button to turn them on is on the left side of the dash.

Posted
4 hours ago, goosehunter said:

 Hi John, how do you get these light to work....i have them, never seen them on!    Thanks.

It’s the button on the headlight dial.  The button you would think is the fog light switch.  Kind of another odd/dumb thing about these trucks.  

AEA83B88-CD19-4C7B-A39C-1616F2667FA1.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, TNTSilverado said:

This is why I am in the hunt for a 96-98 C/K 1500 with a 5.7L.  Drive that on $h!tty days and let the new one stay in garage. Drives me nuts having that crud on truck. Especially the wheels. Doesn’t take long for them to go to h$ll with that chemical stuff they put on the road. 

That’s why I have the old 4x4 Trailblazer.  It’s like new on the inside, some minor dings on the outside.  I had a 2wd rclb GMC 1500, 5.7, but it rusted out, frame and body, went through a few fuel pumps too.  Maybe an older tbi truck.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Just rid of the black on the bow tie via plastic dip. Also got some center console organizer tools

d18fd9442c8f98b56e3332d0c834ed8a.jpg

e3e2409fb44fad61356bfea91eb81a02.jpg

 

ae90d817c0168c14ed3421e87c86d71e.jpg

57a2b95c31774a4524f95f878df3cd8d.jpg

1630cd6f95164a7e006f2045d788c4ca.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
    • Yes.  The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management.  It is NOT the same as the V8s.  Totally different system.     Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system.  Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain":   New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink         This is an internet myth going around.  It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM.  The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN.  The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM.  The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code.  At all.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...