What Have You Done With Your T1 Today ?????

FWaT4 · April 2, 2020

this was over the weekend. Detailed it, installed the vinyl overlays on the front, then did the back. Not sure if i got the wrong set of rear overlays in my package but they just didnt work well. Had already pulled the Sierra off so went ahead and pulled the GMC off as well. Looks much cleaner but damn was that a pain in the ass to clean up. Got the system installed- 2x JL 10s with 1000w amp and a LLJ harness and jesus does this thing slam!amp gain at barely a quarter and the Bose head unit has bass usually around -2. Used an old box i had and did some fabbing to it, waiting on some matching carpet to come in so i can wrap it and make it look nice in the truck. Gyms are closed nothing to do and i am working from my home office daily so just blowing money and time on the truck.

I was going to order the carbonpro at4 decals but noticed they arent black? I found some all black decals but now i am on the fence as i like the red accent and the chrome does not look all that bad. Are there any at4 badges out there that have the chrome trim but letters are black? not sure if i want to go through the vinyl thing again

Got an email saying my new blacked out oil and gas license plates are in- but my county tax office is closed for another couple weeks....

on a side note- my brother came up last week and he has a new Ram 2500. He didnt want to tune it so he got the pedal commander and raves about it. Anyone here have any experience with those or thoughts?

Edited April 2, 2020 by FWaT4

nobaddays · April 2, 2020

Had her for less than a week so far... Got my wheels and tires swapped over from my 18. Unfortunately, the TPMS changed frequencies, so I had to have new sensors installed yesterday. Also got my Gator tri-fold installed and the truck de-badged. Just waiting for my tint shop to open back up!

asalinasz39 · April 2, 2020

Do you have the link for the net?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HVKW9RC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Here you go.

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alexistence · April 2, 2020

Installed Nfab nerf bars and got the front two windows tinted to match. Needs to get a wash and wax and since Florida is now on "Stay at home" orders I should have the time!

Edited April 2, 2020 by alexistence

Kyle's AT4 · April 2, 2020

Took off the Sierra and got black emblems, tint goes on tomorrow and side steps were missing parts so waiting on those as well

Dali555 · April 2, 2020

On 2/17/2020 at 10:34 PM, Swiftks said:

Naw, it's a LED, any power drain would be minimal. No one complaining of any power drains on the reviews, and most people mention that it stays on 24/7, so everyone is aware of it. Time will tell, but I don't foresee a LED that small causing any issues.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F84VVB4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dR1sEbCHQ5PS2

FYI, you do have to widen the hole ever so slightly to get it to fit. I used a drimmel with a fine grit sand paper attachment, no problem.

Put in my Autostop today and bought the charger you put in as well. Unfortunately I’m not an electrical guy so I had to stop at the eliminator only. Could you do a write up on how to wire this thing? Sorry for my stupidity on this. If not, that’s ok, it was so cheap lol

Mrgolde · April 3, 2020

Just ordered my 6” lift and 20x12.5 rims and 35x12 tires. Can’t wait to get them on!

Swiftks · April 3, 2020

5 hours ago, Dali555 said:

Put in my Autostop today and bought the charger you put in as well. Unfortunately I’m not an electrical guy so I had to stop at the eliminator only. Could you do a write up on how to wire this thing? Sorry for my stupidity on this. If not, that’s ok, it was so cheap lol

No problem, it's pretty simple.

For the new parts:

Just slip on the wiring harness that comes with it, with the positive and negative terminals. Then cut the wireing harness after the fuse... So your cutting it between the fuse and circle connectors. Strip some wire covering to expose some bare wire on the ends.

For the factory parts:

Work up/remove some of the black wrap to have some play with the two wires that go the back of the factory 12v.

Cut the wires off the back. You may want to remove your ground from the battery before you do this step.... You don't have to (I didn't), just make sure you don't cut them together, and make sure they don't touch once you do cut them, as it's a hot wire, unless disconnected.

Strip some wire like you did earlier, and just connect the positive running from the dash to the positive of the new wire... Same with the ground wire. Use whatever type of wire connector you want, as long as they're secure.

I think there's a washer on the back side of the factory 12v insert to remove it. Take out the factory 12v plug, drimmel out a slightly larger hole, so you can pop in the new one and secure it tight. You're good to go.

Let me know if you need clarification on anything.... More or less just cutting the 4 wires (2 new and 2 old) and connecting them. Like I said just be careful with the two factory ones after you cut them, and don't let them touch; it's a live wire. It's not gonna kill you or anything, just scare you when they spark.

Edited April 3, 2020 by Swiftks

Dali555 · April 3, 2020

25 minutes ago, Swiftks said:

No problem, it's pretty simple.

For the new parts:

Just slip on the wiring harness that comes with it, with the positive and negative terminals. Then cut the wireing harness after the fuse... So your cutting it between the fuse and circle connectors. Strip some wire covering to expose some bare wire on the ends.

For the factory parts:

Work up/remove some of the black wrap to have some play with the two wires that go the back of the factory 12v.

Cut the wires off the back. You may want to remove your ground from the battery before you do this step.... You don't have to (I didn't), just make sure you don't cut them together, and make sure they don't touch once you do cut them, as it's a hot wire, unless disconnected.

Strip some wire like you did earlier, and just connect the positive running from the dash to the positive of the new wire... Same with the ground wire. Use whatever type of wire connector you want, as long as they're secure.

I think there's a washer on the back side of the factory 12v insert to remove it. Take out the factory 12v plug, drimmel out a slightly larger hole, so you can pop in the new one and secure it tight. You're good to go.

Let me know if you need clarification on anything.... More or less just cutting the 4 wires (2 new and 2 old) and connecting them. Like I said just be careful with the two factory ones after you cut them, and don't let them touch; it's a live wire. It's not gonna kill you or anything, just scare you when they spark.

Awesome! Thank you so much. I might make this part of the back instead of the front. Not sure yet... either place will be great. Thank again for the help

alexistence · April 4, 2020

Started removing the badges today, that tiny X31 badge was getting on my nerves.. And also got a tool box that matches the gloss black. Finishing the debadging tomorrow.

CP312 · April 4, 2020

Installed my ReadyLift SST on my 2020 AT4. Great instructions for install. Next decision will be what to do about tires. Perfectly leveled, 41” to the wheel well at the center of the wheel.

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What are you thinking you’ll do for tires? Keeping stock wheels? Also, and likely most importantly, how does it ride compared to stock? I’m curious since all you changed was the suspension. Makes for a apples to apples comparison as sometimes the tires people choose negatively affect the ride.

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loud_pipes · April 4, 2020

What are you thinking you’ll do for tires? Keeping stock wheels? Also, and likely most importantly, how does it ride compared to stock? I’m curious since all you changed was the suspension. Makes for a apples to apples comparison as sometimes the tires people choose negatively affect the ride.

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I’m looking at Atturo Blade 305/55/20 (33.5x12) for tires. This is the largest recommended size from ReadyLift to go with this kit. I’m keeping the stock wheels.

My thinking on these tires is they are cheaper than many other brands ($197 each) so if I don’t like the ride I can sell them and take a little less of a hit.

Ride comparison is totally like stock. This kit did not change ride quality or the feel of the road at all. I’ll sacrifice a little ride quality once the Atturos go one because of the tread and stiffer sidewall, but it’s terms of just the kit it does a great job maintaining the ride.

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CP312 · April 4, 2020

I’m looking at Atturo Blade 305/55/20 (33.5x12) for tires. This is the largest recommended size from ReadyLift to go with this kit. I’m keeping the stock wheels.

My thinking on these tires is they are cheaper than many other brands ($197 each) so if I don’t like the ride I can sell them and take a little less of a hit.

Ride comparison is totally like stock. This kit did not change ride quality or the feel of the road at all. I’ll sacrifice a little ride quality once the Atturos go one because of the tread and stiffer sidewall, but it’s terms of just the kit it does a great job maintaining the ride.

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Awesome thank you. I’m no expert but I think you can actually go bigger if you stay with stock wheels. The ready lift site give that tire size for 0 offset wheels. I saw on Facebook earlier where people were doing 35/11.5/20 on stock wheels and it was said you’ll could do that on wheels of +15 offset and higher. I don’t know this form personal experience though.

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loud_pipes · April 4, 2020

Awesome thank you. I’m no expert but I think you can actually go bigger if you stay with stock wheels. The ready lift site give that tire size for 0 offset wheels. I saw on Facebook earlier where people were doing 35/11.5/20 on stock wheels and it was said you’ll could do that on wheels of +15 offset and higher. I don’t know this form personal experience though.

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Thanks. But I think I’m going to stick with what’s recommended by ReadyLift this time around just to be safe.

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