Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Edited for double post

Edited by MikeBMW
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

help please !!!  have part number 23458495 F- switch, light switch for a silverado ute 2018 LTD duamax  and now looking to purchase the harness to suit wanting to connect spotlights where can I purchase and we are in Australia.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I finally got around to doing this. I have successfully installed the harness and lights. I'm stuck on the final step - fishing the yellow wire through the firewall boots.

 

Anyone who has done this: what tips can you offer me on fishing the yellow wire?

 

Did you have to remove or loosen the bolts on the X61A junction box to fish the yellow wire?

What is the approximate angle to push a socket extension or screwdriver through the engine bay side boot in order to hit the right spot on the firewall behind the X61A?

Posted (edited)

Today, I took another pass at fishing the yellow wire through the firewall. I had to buy some wire hangers and that helped tremendously. Using the coat-hanger wire, I was able to feel my way through the inner boot. It certainly wasn't any easy route. I figured out that the angle of the wire going in is only about 15 degrees above horizontal. It felt about like I was blindly threading a needle.

 

Once I got the wire through, I still couldn't see it under the dash. I ended up having to remove the 3 nuts from the X16A junction box and pulling the box away from the firewall. It didn't move much, maybe an inch, but it helped me see the coat-hanger wire sticking through. I was able to stick my hand behind the X16A and guide the coat-hanger out the left side. I taped the yellow wire onto the coat-hanger and gently fished it back through. It works! Hallelujah, praise the Lord!

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

Edited by Granite7
  • Like 1
Posted

I remove the spring from my light switch so I can shut off all the lights and not have the auto function. New Off-road switch iis on order. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
On 1/19/2023 at 9:16 AM, Art Contoni said:

I know this is a very old thread but, does anyone know if the switch will fit the Larger SUVs (Sub and Yukon)?

Yes it will

Posted
On 1/18/2023 at 4:40 AM, Homewrecker007 said:

I remove the spring from my light switch so I can shut off all the lights and not have the auto function. New Off-road switch iis on order. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On 1/16/2023 at 5:21 PM, Granite7 said:

Today, I took another pass at fishing the yellow wire through the firewall. I had to buy some wire hangers and that helped tremendously. Using the coat-hanger wire, I was able to feel my way through the inner boot. It certainly wasn't any easy route. I figured out that the angle of the wire going in is only about 15 degrees above horizontal. It felt about like I was blindly threading a needle.

 

Once I got the wire through, I still couldn't see it under the dash. I ended up having to remove the 3 nuts from the X16A junction box and pulling the box away from the firewall. It didn't move much, maybe an inch, but it helped me see the coat-hanger wire sticking through. I was able to stick my hand behind the X16A and guide the coat-hanger out the left side. I taped the yellow wire onto the coat-hanger and gently fished it back through. It works! Hallelujah, praise the Lord!

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

@Granite7 Thanks for your story and photos. Could you provide the source of this headlight switch with the two buttons? I’ll need the “red glow” version for my truck. Thx in advance. 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

5 years after buying the wiring harness and ORL switch, I'm wondering if anyone knows where to connect this yellow trigger wire for the stock sport bar wiring harness? My truck came with the sport bar, so it has the wiring ran for the third brake light, along with (presumably) the stock ORL that are an option. However, I can't find where this comes up in the engine bay, and I can't figure out where to hook up this trigger wire to send power to the ORL circuit. Any help would be appreciated, plan on picking up some DT connectors so I can at least hook these aftermarket lights up using the same connector that's already in the sport bar. 

 

Edit - scratch that, it looks like there was a sport bar only harness that didn't include relays and all that. Looks like I'll be making from scratch. 

Edited by 02SOMWS6
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I try installing the swicth to my 2015 Silverado 2500HD and it doesn't work. I dont think the BCM has the programming. Does anyone know if it can be programmed at the dealership??

 

Also can the switch button be used with out connecting it to the BCM? If anyone know please help. Thank you in advance 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If there are updates/fixes you want, you could pay to have the updates applied by the dealer.
    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...