Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
There are three types of T1s coming off the line.

 

Long box, Short box, and Pandora's box.

That's funny!!!

 

But, the sad reality is that if a car company actually sold Pandora's Box there would be fanboys throwing their money down, and then whining about all the problems.

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted

I apparently bought the latter. Mine is back in the shop having the steering wheel replaced due to an unknown scrubbing. At least the replacement back window is holding up so far 

  • Thanks 1
  • Sad 1
Posted
On 8/17/2020 at 8:16 PM, OnTheReel said:

The caulking, believe it or not worked on the first try and is still working. If done right, the concept works and it may be better than a new window (that will also eventually crack). The sealer is flexible and shouldn’t ever fail. If done cleanly, you won’t see it either.

 

Problem is usually the damage they do in the process. Leaving sloppy caulk residue on the paint, messing up the headliner or trim, scratching the truck, etc. Seen a lot of it here.


Since this problem has persisted for like 2 years now, I would think most dealers have done a handful of them and have the process down. But just make sure to look everything over really well. Some of the things they screwed up on mine were not immediately apparent. Good luck.

I would have to agree at the end of the day I think it's down to the quality of the dealership personnel working on your vehicle I discovered my leak at the start of the year just after winter, now I will qualify by saying it only leaked in one spot and normally after a trip to the pressure wash or from going through a touchless car wash also there was soap mixed in with it so it became easy to spot.

When they performed the work not only did they do the caulking job they also removed the spoiler did a leak test on it and replaced the fasteners, since then it has been in torrential rain and numerous washes and so far has been leak free.

Posted

Well I did a thing today... While my truck is "fixed", I decided to just take the easy road and trade it in for a 2020 4Runner. It's been real guys, but won't miss the water leaks, transmission slips, rear end bucking, etc... It's a pretty truck though!

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, 19TrailBoss said:

Well I did a thing today... While my truck is "fixed", I decided to just take the easy road and trade it in for a 2020 4Runner. It's been real guys, but won't miss the water leaks, transmission slips, rear end bucking, etc... It's a pretty truck though!

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

Congrats on the purchase. We also own a 2020 4Runner. I got it for the wife and have played with the idea of getting myself one. With a small trailer I could probably live without the truck bed. Bulletproof vehicle. 

Posted
On 8/22/2020 at 3:35 PM, 19TrailBoss said:

Well I did a thing today... While my truck is "fixed", I decided to just take the easy road and trade it in for a 2020 4Runner. It's been real guys, but won't miss the water leaks, transmission slips, rear end bucking, etc... It's a pretty truck though!

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

Congrats on the 4Runner. We just bought my wife a 2020 TRD ORP. It’s our 3rd 4Runner. Love them. Probably the best resale and reliability of any vehicle we’ve bought. Also have a 2020 denali HD for me. Hope I don’t get the leak... ?

  • Sad 1
Posted

My dealership called last Friday and GM wants to put another rear window in. To recap bought truck on Halloween. 2019 crew cab Ltz z71with 211 miles. At 1344 window leak reared it’s ugly head. After three unsuccessful caulk jobs and 79 days at the dealership GM relaxed the rear window and stained headliner.  Fast first to about a month an da week ago noticed water very slowly dripping from sliding window window track over rear driver side headrest. Now waiting on second window replacement 

Posted

I'm sure this has been asked and answered many times, but has this been resolved for the 2020 - 2021s? Or is just a dice roll?

 

Considering there's 150 pages on this topic, if GM hasn't got their ****** together yet its pretty sad. 

Posted
I'm sure this has been asked and answered many times, but has this been resolved for the 2020 - 2021s? Or is just a dice roll?
 
Considering there's 150 pages on this topic, if GM hasn't got their ****** together yet its pretty sad. 
There are for sure 2020's out there with the issue, but I believe it is yet to be seen if the 2021's will have the issue. I wouldn't be surprised though...

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Posted
There are for sure 2020's out there with the issue, but I believe it is yet to be seen if the 2021's will have the issue. I wouldn't be surprised though...

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

That's because 2021s haven't been built yet

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

For what it’s worth, these reports have tapered off quite a bit from what they were. And there was never a huge inrush of 2020s leaking like the 2019s. A handful, sure, but I don’t think I’d be losing sleep if I bought a 2020, and even less a 2021 if they ever hit lots.

Posted

Current owners and prospective buyers hoping for full disclosure or new part number or other real solution other than a toothpaste seal:

media2.giphy.com/media/l0NgQfbU5rhycFlIc/source...

 

  • Haha 1
Posted

Well my 2019 Sierra has been in to the dealership for the first round of attempted sealing of the rear window leak. Now waiting for a new window which is on back order. Recalls for minor things like programming, or alternator cable are one thing but you'd think by now the would know how to make a sliding window that doesn't leak. By the service bulletin I've seen the plastic track is actually cracked. And, by the way, the bolt holes that secure the spoiler need to be sealed properly too. My trickle at the left rear corner became a full blown running leak at both sides after the first service attempt. I'm guessing the aforementioned spoiler bolt holes are the culprits. Takes the joy out of getting a new truck for sure. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...