Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, RadBrad said:

Yea the trucks being built in august of 2020, mine was 8/14/20 and its leaking on the passenger side, waiting for my first service appointment yet.  

Is the frame leaking from cracks? If you push up on the headliner you should be able to see he cracks. Just wondering if your issue is the spoiler bolts or cracked window frame. 

Posted
4 hours ago, RadBrad said:

Yea the trucks being built in august of 2020, mine was 8/14/20 and its leaking on the passenger side, waiting for my first service appointment yet.  

Keep us updated.  I thought they fixed it for 2020, apparently not.  

Posted

Just noticed the back seat brackets are rusting on both sides.... OMG $^%#! $&#&^!$ ? !!!!!!!!!

Or is this a feature enhancement ?  ?

Any one else having this happen ????  ?


image.thumb.png.f97e70cf08ac6e3ab19f9fd64870b2a8.png
image.thumb.png.8691e3f9a820e370bb9b9c0e11821568.png


 

Posted

?
 

I wedged a small towel between the upper back of my seat and the window where it drips down for this very reason. I can’t get the dealer to actually fix the leak so I’m just keeping it from getting my carpet and hardware wet. Good enough for now, I guess. 

  • Confused 1
Posted
27 minutes ago, econometrics said:

?
 

I wedged a small towel between the upper back of my seat and the window where it drips down for this very reason. I can’t get the dealer to actually fix the leak so I’m just keeping it from getting my carpet and hardware wet. Good enough for now, I guess. 

I have paper towels there on both sides that I check once a week or after big storms. But that still hasn't helped this issue. 
 

Posted
2 hours ago, Grey3liter4x4 said:

If the dealer can't fix mine or won't maybe I'll hang a small potted fern below the drip.  At least the water won't go to waste.  

image.png.91cf5907137d75134d9a0b596bdfe239.png

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Grey3liter4x4 said:

If the dealer can't fix mine or won't maybe I'll hang a small potted fern below the drip.  At least the water won't go to waste.  

For my bigger leak, I'm thinking of something like this, but inside the cab. 

spacer.png

  • Haha 3
Posted
5 hours ago, Fluffy_ said:

For my bigger leak, I'm thinking of something like this, but inside the cab. 

spacer.png

Brilliant!  My wife would love it if I planted some kale.     

  • Like 1
Posted

Had the sealant repair in August (took 2 weeks) and leaked 3 days later. Took it back and took another 2 weeks for replacement window + sealant. Because so much water flows under the spoiler and dumps right on top of the window, I asked them how we could build the sealant up to where the water sheds off the top instead of sitting behind the window on the seal. They talked to GM and realized they were doing the repair incorrectly, and it looks like they did what I asked (although it looks a little messy). Also, I've been following this thread a long time and have seen many pictures of window frames posted. I have never seen a frame like the new one in my truck. They insisted this is THE new window design to address this issue. I have been told a few things that I know are untrue, so who knows but see below and take it for what it's worth. 

 

After this mess, I have sold the truck to to a dealership for $500 less than what I paid in April with 5,000 miles on it (thankful I bought when they had 2x $6,500 discounts). I don't want this headache anymore. I keep my vehicles a long time and I refuse to worry about a leak every time it rains or I wash it. 

 

Hopefully these pictures below help someone. I included the receipt from the work. If anyone knows anything about this window, please let me know. I am curious if it really is a new style window. (Keep in mind, I think the part number is the glass part numbers, not the window assembly part number). Good luck to everyone. 

frame.jpg

pn.jpg

rec.jpg

Posted

Hi, all

 

Newer AT4 owner here, and I read the past so-many pages of this thread, but 153 pages a long read.

So, please forgive the perhaps stupid question....

 

Is it possible to just replace this window with a solid non-sliding window that doesn't seem to have issues?

I don't have a leak yet, but I only have 1000 miles on my truck to-date.

I'm with everyone else - it won't fit in my garage and I will not sit and worry every time it rains if mine develops the issue.

 

Thx

Posted

Well I picked my truck up for the last and final repair to get things right. I got the most updated window (FUYAO E4 43R-000072) It water tested and everything was water tight so far. They still had shitty looking sealant around the window, but not as bad as the hack job they did before. 

Posted
28 minutes ago, TrailBossLemonEdition said:

Well I picked my truck up for the last and final repair to get things right. I got the most updated window (FUYAO E4 43R-000072) It water tested and everything was water tight so far. They still had shitty looking sealant around the window, but not as bad as the hack job they did before. 

Is that THE window which does not leak?  I sure as hell hope so. I just checked my 2020 AT4 built in July 2020 and that’s what it has. 

Posted

My window is shown below. My Denali was built 8/19 and I took delivery a year ago this month. Window began leaking a month ago on drivers side. Took it in last week and the Dealer is waiting for bolts etc. to show up. 

C3DCE459-BA45-4066-9D7F-B42CF822B539.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 426 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...